A/C in a Scamp 13 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:17 PM   #1
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Name: Anne
Trailer: Scamp
Ontario
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A/C in a Scamp 13

Does anyone know what minimum BTU a/c unit would be best to cool a '79 `13ft Scamp? I've been told 2500 BTU is sufficient. Thanks
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:22 PM   #2
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Name: Eric
Trailer: Scamp 13
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I use 5000 BTU and it is more than sufficient. Obviously it depends on setup, outside temperature... and how cool you want it inside. I like to have a little extra so I would do 5000 BTU again.
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:49 PM   #3
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Frigidaire makes a very small and light weight 5000BTU A/C. I have used several of them on 13ft fiberglass campers with great success.
I really like them.

Frigidaire 5,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner-FFRA0511R1 - The Home Depot
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Old 04-28-2015, 07:55 PM   #4
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Go with a 5000 BTU window unit. They are inexpensive and easily replaced should it fail in the future. You can install it under one of the dinet seats and vent it through the floor for stealth. I have a 5000 BTU unit in my 16 foot deluxe, and it keeps it nice in there even when it is extremely hot. The insulation that scamp uses kind of sucks, so it runs almost constantly when in direct sunlight. However, I would always rather have an undersized AC than an oversized one. Cool/warm and dry is a lot better than cold but damp!


Mine is installed in the factory (closet) location, but without the factory vent. I added a booster fan and have it vent through a dryer vent on the side of the trailer. It pulls air up through the floor in the AC cabinet. Nobody can tell I even have AC standing right next to it. Because it is so enclosed you cannot hear the AC compressor from the outside. They would just wonder what that dryer vent is doing blasting warm air.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:51 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericw View Post
I use 5000 BTU and it is more than sufficient. Obviously it depends on setup, outside temperature... and how cool you want it inside. I like to have a little extra so I would do 5000 BTU again.
Thanks for replying...i'll have to do a little more research i guess.
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:56 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd View Post
Frigidaire makes a very small and light weight 5000BTU A/C. I have used several of them on 13ft fiberglass campers with great success.
I really like them.

Frigidaire 5,000 BTU Window Air Conditioner-FFRA0511R1 - The Home Depot
Thanks...just wonder if anyone has thoughts about a dog house a/c-heater?
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Old 04-29-2015, 05:22 AM   #7
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Those are just modified window units. Or at least, they should be. Make your own out if a window AC if you really want that form factor. The critical thing is that there are two vent lines. The device has to have return air to re-cool. Portable air conditioners are terrible because they dicharge exhaust air out of the area to be cooled. This draws in new warm air from outside however it can find its way in. You can find a 5kbtu AC unit on craigslist for $50 or less and add your own insulated tubing to the front. This runs to connections you can make through your trailers floor and bingo, removable AC that makes no visual difference in the trailer, and you dont have to bring it along when you know you won't need it.

The readily available dog house units that I found are far less efficient than most wibdo units, and honestly I dont think sub 5,000 BTU would be enough given the losses involved with the tubing. I too found those when searching for window units LESS than 5KBTU for my 16 foot. This is because I replaced all of the internal bubble wrap with 1/2" R5 rated polyurethane foam board. I run my AC on solar so I am always looking for efficiency.

I plan on building or buying a mini split heat pump in the future. I would be tickled to find an inverter driven 5k window heat pump though!
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Old 04-29-2015, 06:44 AM   #8
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Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
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I found a 9,000 but mini split heat pump from Johnstone supply I bought on sale for ~$600. It is a Comfort-Aire DVH9 with inverter drive and is rated very efficient and QUIET. Te inside unit is rated 26 dB. and the outside unit is going on the tongue and it is also pretty quiet. Also since it is inverted (variable speed) it has low starting surge and only runs enough to meet demand. It has drying mode etc. I plan to leave it connected at the house to keep the mildew in control.
Towards that end I have also (during the rebuild) sealed and tested every window, opening and penetration. The storms we have had lately have been a big help in locating leaks! I will report when I have completed the installation


Product Specifications
Amps Cooling 8.7
BtuH Cooling 9,000
BtuH Heating 9,000
Depth 7-1/8"
Height 10-1/8"
Liquid Conn. 1/4"
Max. Fuse Size 30
Suction Fitting 3/8"
Unit Type Indoor
Volts 115
Width 26-3/4"
Wt. Lbs. 15.4
Shipping Weight 15.43
Shipping Width 26.77
Shipping Length 7.01
Shipping Height 10.04



Product Specifications
Amps Cooling 8.7
BtuH Cooling 9,000
BtuH Heating 9,000
Depth 10-7/16"
Height 21-1/4"
Liquid Conn. 1/4"
Max. Fuse Size 30
Suction Fitting 3/8"
Unit Type Outdoor
Volts 115
Width 26"
Wt. Lbs. 63.9
Shipping Weight 103.00
Shipping Width 14.50
Shipping Length 31.50
Shipping Height 24.50
We will see how it will work out. I plan on mounting it over the rear window. It will slightly cover the window and be spaced several inches ahead of it with clearance at the top since the intake for the air is there.
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Old 04-29-2015, 07:43 AM   #9
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Depends alot on your location. If you're in the deep south during the hot humid summers, I would NOT go less than a 5K BTU. I have a 9200 BTU and have seen it run quite often during the day on my 13' Scamp. Remember, these are not R30 insulated houses! These walls are about 1/2" thick max! So the heat will quickly penetrate and cause the A/C to run more.

Just my opinion.... AND these Wally World A/C's are cheap!
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:47 AM   #10
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Ontario
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I have a 9000btu mobile unit I mounted in the closet. 2 small holes and a small drain line through the floor.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
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I have a 9000btu mobile unit I mounted in the closet. 2 small holes and a small drain line through the floor.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:48 PM   #12
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I'm away for work for the next month but it's straight forward. I have no door on my closet so I put a small platform over the wheel well. The unit came with 4" hoses to exhaust/supply so I found 4" duct covers at Rona and cut the hoses to length. It's the largest 120vac draw I have so I run it from a separate breaker. I cut a piece of garden hose about 18" long and run it through the floor for a drain. I think it's superior to a window banger because the unit also supplies heat and dehumidifies.
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Old 04-30-2015, 05:50 AM   #13
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A/C

Thanks for you input - that's actually not a bad idea...will have to consult with my installer (hubby likes a challenge).
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Old 04-30-2015, 05:51 AM   #14
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Sorry, what model is it? Thanks.
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Old 04-30-2015, 05:52 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keaner View Post
I'm away for work for the next month but it's straight forward. I have no door on my closet so I put a small platform over the wheel well. The unit came with 4" hoses to exhaust/supply so I found 4" duct covers at Rona and cut the hoses to length. It's the largest 120vac draw I have so I run it from a separate breaker. I cut a piece of garden hose about 18" long and run it through the floor for a drain. I think it's superior to a window banger because the unit also supplies heat and dehumidifies.
Sorry, forgot to ask which model/make is it? Thanks, Anne.
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