A Cautionary Tale...... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-25-2013, 12:45 AM   #15
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Glad to see you avoided a disaster. As far as where you were you are correct about that area being busy. It is very busy and if you are traveling through ND it is best to avoid the Williston area unless you actually want to see it. The traffic is horrendous. It's best to stay South along the I-94 corridor. Once East of Minot a little you will be out of it.
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Old 07-25-2013, 01:05 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeonardS View Post
Wouldn't the inverter supply the 110vac?
If you have one. And if it's connected to the stove.
My trailer has a converter, which takes AC and converts it to DC to charge the batteries and run lights, fridge etc.
I have a small portable inverter that plugs into a DC cigar lighter to deliver AC for charging my computer or my iPhone.

I think you'd just use a butane BBQ lighter if you weren't on shore power.

I could be completely off the mark, but I don't think the igniter would work.
Do you have an inverter in yours? And a converter?
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Old 07-25-2013, 08:35 AM   #17
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While I haven't hooked it up yet, the plan is to hook it up to a hard-wired inverter which is switched on to supply sine-wave 120v to a light and some outlets. It should work, because the drain from the cook top electronics is negligible. The barbecue lighter will also work. So far I'm impressed with the materials and construction of the unit, but I'm withholding full endorsement until it has been used for a while.

While the claim is that this unit is (often) used for marine and RV purposes it is clearly also for home installations. The burners are 7000 and 9000 Btu which should address my wife's occasional impatience with the old one's performance.
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Old 08-15-2013, 05:46 PM   #18
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Update for anyone interested in the weird new cook top I'm trying out:

As you could see in the pictures, I needed to put a spacer underneath the unit because the old Atwood was slightly wider. The cook top is fastened with 4 clips which have to be tightened from underneath. Not a problem for me since the distance to the frig was adequate.

There was a need for a brass adapter, since the flex pipe to the old Atwood was 3/8" flare. I then plugged the unit in to a 120v source to test the ignition and applied gas pressure.

I had tested the gas fittings with a brush dipped in soapy water, but since I had never done that before I neglected to stipple it on until there was a a foamy enough mass around the joints. No apparent leakage, though.

I then pushed the control and got rapidly flashing sparks to the front burner but nothing to the rear. I tried a couple of times, but nothing.

Nevertheless, my wife was ready to see how it worked, so she looked on as I tried to light it. There was a small explosion, which lifted the cook top up from the counter top. Wife surprised. I turned off the gas, undid the 4 little screws on the top surface and looked at the wiring underneath. Thin high-voltage wires suspended in air, with one spot having gotten too near to a metal part, arced through the insulation and caused the explosion. I cut the wire, slid insulating heat shrink on it and resoldered it, making sure that no other wires were too close to any metal parts. Plan is to get some insulated standoffs and cinch the wires down to prevent vibration displacing them in the future.

The propane leak came from a 90 degree brass fitting supplied by the manufacturer. When a propane specialist took the 2-part unit apart he concluded that they did not match, and the brass bottomed out without ever touching the gasket even when tightened hard together. The area under the unit was mostly sealed off, hence the accumulation of gas.

Having that fixed I tested the ignition again, and this time sparks flew properly. I opened up the area underneath, realizing that any future leak needed to have a way to dissipate. In the meantime I have learned that to properly bubble-test a fitting one needs to repeatedly stipple the soapy water on the joint until a thick foam is formed.

Having that fixed the stove top appears to be working fine. I contacted the distributor about the fitting, etc. and they appeared to be eager to deal with the mismatch. This is apparently an import-from-China outfit, and getting through on the telephone is less than smooth, especially when the person on the other end turns out to have English as a second language.

The third "problem:" the grate and the tops of the burners are on loosely. A fix I think is satisfactory can be seen in the photo, where a bungee cord is stretched across and pushed everything that is loose down all at once. Obviously the cook top has not been aimed primarily at the bouncing Burro market. Not really a problem.

The good parts: Looks good, easy to clean, and solves the most pressing problem: the Atwood's enameled surface became very hot to the touch at the edge after just a few minutes (partly because the burners are not sealed.) These burners are sealed and elevated, and after boiling a pan of water the top surfaces were very cool to the touch. A dramatic difference, and really what I was looking for. No more singed edges. The revised ignition works very well. When checking under the unit there was no evidence of heat worth mentioning.

Since the Burro has no need for the SMEV top's cover to add to the counter top area this is a good solution for us.
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New stovetop, bungeed, resized.jpg  
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Old 08-15-2013, 06:25 PM   #19
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You're having way too much fun, Per. After the cautionary tale, I think I'll stick to the old 3 burner Atwood, hot porcelain and all. I have a FFan in the opening where previously there was only the original passive vent so I have to be careful to not have it operating on intake and deflecting the flame cones downward. My wife hates the exhaust fan because of the noise it produces, but unlike the FFan it is proof against this heating effect, since, like all of its species, it exhausts only.

Got to be careful with those mods, folks. The law of unintended, uninvited, and unnoticed consequences can ruin your day--or worse.

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Old 08-15-2013, 06:56 PM   #20
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Another reason why all factory installed Fantastic Fans in the kitchens are exhaust only, it is only after we, the owners, that we add reverse and resistors to change the speeds.
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Old 08-15-2013, 08:30 PM   #21
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Good eye, Jim. Is there a published industry standard or reg for trailer ventilation? Even if not, avoidance of intake fans in RV galleys across the industry would seem to indicate that this conjunction of circumstances has happened in the past (somebody's egg got fried).

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Old 08-16-2013, 07:11 AM   #22
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I was told it was for preventing negative pressure buildup inside which can effect cooking as well as sewer odors being pulled into the trailer. This was when I questioned why I could not order a reversing ff in one of my previous trailers.
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Old 08-16-2013, 11:26 AM   #23
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The location of the 14" passive roof vent in these Burro 17s is on the same side as the gas range and just inboard of the stove hood. Add the intake fan and nothing as esoteric as positive or negative cabin pressure is required to depress the burner cones but merely a strong downdraft from the fan. A strong wind from the open door directly across the aisle from the cooktop is apparently also capable of deflecting the flame sufficient to overheat the porcelainized steel of the cooktop. I tend to think that exhausting air from the trailer cabin with closed doors and windows would cause the negative cabin pressure which might draw smelly air from shower traps or badly fitting dump valves in some cheap RV toilets.

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Old 08-16-2013, 11:39 AM   #24
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Actually the feeling was pulling in sewer gas from the roof vents most rv's have on the roof near the vents, it is a passive system and the gas seems to float along the roofs as it is heavier and this makes a fan operating on intake more apt to pull in the smelly odor.
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Old 08-16-2013, 01:17 PM   #25
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Good point. Didn't think about the effluvia from the vent stacks. I've never noticed an odor with the FFan on intake or, if I did, didn't associate with the proximity to the vents. Of course, we are very clean people and our gray and black tanks are pure as the new-mown hay. Ah yeh!

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