Update for anyone interested in the weird new cook top I'm trying out:
As you could see in the pictures, I needed to put a spacer underneath the unit because the old Atwood was slightly wider. The cook top is fastened with 4 clips which have to be tightened from underneath. Not a problem for me since the distance to the frig was adequate.
There was a need for a brass adapter, since the flex pipe to the old Atwood was 3/8" flare. I then plugged the unit in to a 120v source to test the ignition and applied gas pressure.
I had tested the gas fittings with a brush dipped in soapy water, but since I had never done that before I neglected to stipple it on until there was a a foamy enough mass around the joints. No apparent leakage, though.
I then pushed the control and got rapidly flashing sparks to the front burner but nothing to the rear. I tried a couple of times, but nothing.
Nevertheless, my wife was ready to see how it worked, so she looked on as I tried to light
it. There was a small explosion, which lifted the cook top up from the counter top. Wife surprised. I turned off the gas, undid the 4 little screws on the top surface and looked at the wiring underneath. Thin high-voltage wires suspended in air, with one spot having gotten too near to a metal part, arced through the insulation and caused the explosion. I cut the wire, slid insulating heat shrink on it and resoldered it, making sure that no other wires were too close to any metal parts. Plan is to get some insulated standoffs and cinch the wires down to prevent vibration displacing them in the future.
leak came from a 90 degree brass fitting supplied by the manufacturer. When a propane
specialist took the 2-part unit apart he concluded that they did not match, and the brass bottomed out without ever touching the gasket even when tightened hard together. The area under the unit was mostly sealed off, hence the accumulation of gas.
Having that fixed I tested the ignition again, and this time sparks flew properly. I opened up the area underneath, realizing that any future leak needed to have a way to dissipate. In the meantime I have learned that to properly bubble-test a fitting one needs to repeatedly stipple the soapy water on the joint until a thick foam is formed.
Having that fixed the stove top appears to be working fine. I contacted the distributor about the fitting, etc. and they appeared to be eager to deal with the mismatch. This is apparently an import-from-China outfit, and getting through on the telephone is less than smooth, especially when the person on the other end turns out to have English as a second language.
The third "problem:" the grate and the tops of the burners are on loosely. A fix I think is satisfactory can be seen in the photo, where a bungee cord is stretched across and pushed everything that is loose down all at once. Obviously the cook top has not been aimed primarily at the bouncing Burro
market. Not really a problem.
The good parts: Looks good, easy to clean, and solves the most pressing problem: the Atwood's enameled surface became very hot to the touch at the edge after just a few minutes (partly because the burners are not sealed.) These burners are sealed and elevated, and after boiling a pan of water the top surfaces were very cool to the touch. A dramatic difference, and really what I was looking for. No more singed edges. The revised ignition works very well. When checking under the unit there was no evidence of heat worth mentioning.
Since the Burro
has no need for the SMEV top's cover to add to the counter top area this is a good solution for us.