About the fridge opening... - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-30-2016, 05:06 PM   #15
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It depends on the ambient temperature how cold any cooler will get.
The Mobicool model I posted cools 20C ( 68F ) below ambient, but it costs $329 in Canada. Other makes and models are cheaper and much less capable.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:33 PM   #16
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Good compressor type 12V fridge costs well above 500 USD...
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Old 01-30-2016, 07:26 PM   #17
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We have a 12V/120V compressor fridge. It has worked in the summer in the desert in the SW USA with no issues. They are not cheap and we paid $500+ for a marine/RV grade appliance. We love it and would do it again. YMMV.
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Old 01-30-2016, 08:11 PM   #18
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I'll correct my original response by saying that the current vents and clearances in your camper were designed to comply with the installation specs for the original refrigerator. You asked whether the vents would be necessary with an electric replacement refrigerator. Maybe, but the refrigerator you choose hopefully will include its own installation specs. You should make sure to provide vents and clearances per the specs.

It's best to check installation specs BEFORE you buy the replacement refrigerator. Then compare choices and consider what modifications will be needed.
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Old 01-30-2016, 08:25 PM   #19
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Yes, but I think we (I) may have caused some confusion here.
We're co-discussing both the little portable car cooler chests and real refrigerators and perhaps there something missing in communication here.

Apologies.
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:10 AM   #20
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You asked "why put plexiglass there?"

I think because the PO HAD some plexiglass and wanted to keep the bugs out.

I know we do some things for that reason. We HAVE some material that'll more or less approach doing the task, and it's free, and handy, so we use it "for now."

There's not much other reason to put plexiglass over a big vent unless one wanted the light without the bugs.

PS--we're taking the vent out & fiberglassing the vent area because we've decided to use an ice chest.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:39 PM   #21
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Kai, you're probably right about the plexiglass since nobody commented on that.

I discovered that I have unlimited access to free plexiglass scraps. I wonder if I can replace the broken glass in the door jalousie window with plexiglass. Might have to start another thread when I get there...

All comments were helpful, thanks. We'll probably leave the vents but do the screen and hardware cloth thing. We're planning on finding a second hand fridge that we'll use as an ice cooler (ice box) when unplugged.
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Old 01-31-2016, 12:53 PM   #22
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I suppose it depends on your budget and your needs. Our Mobi Cool claims to keep its contents at, "up to 20 degrees C below ambient temperature", and we have found it to be so. So on on a normal summer day for around here with temperatures in the mid-20s, the inside temp is fine for food. If the temperature gets much above that I usually add a block of ice in a container and find a shady cool spot for the cooler. And we are careful of which foods we try to store and which we buy fresh as we go. Works for us. Actually, if I remember the manual for my old Dometic, as an evaporation unit it had its own limitations. Oh, and we paid $133.88 for our 35 litre on sale including the separate 120 volt adapter with tax.

If on the other hand one spends a lot of time in the south and/or wants to live in their RV than something more robust might be in order. But for our needs this has been a good solution.
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:11 PM   #23
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Keep in mind: With the original propane/electric fridge, the cabinet was (and definitely needed to be for safety reasons) airtight to camper interior, thus no bug problems and NO screen needed. AND any added screen would have significantly reduced air flow, and cooling effectiveness.

If replacing with a different model fridge, carefully follow the installation specs (vents, clearances, etc.)
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:40 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by John in Michigan View Post
Keep in mind: With the original propane/electric fridge, the cabinet was (and definitely needed to be for safety reasons) airtight to camper interior, thus no bug problems and NO screen needed. AND any added screen would have significantly reduced air flow, and cooling effectiveness.
John, I'm not sure I follow you.
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Old 01-31-2016, 09:51 PM   #25
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John, I'm not sure I follow you.
I think he means that bugs could not get past the fridge body and into the trailer's living space. However, others probably are thinking of keeping bugs (like wasps) from taking up residence in that space between the fridge and vent, for which a screen is helpful (although it may cut down on the heat dissipation a little bit).
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:00 PM   #26
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The propane burner is located in the back of the fridge. To prevent carbon monoxide from entering the camper, the back of the fridge is sealed from the camper interior.
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Old 01-31-2016, 10:55 PM   #27
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Gotcha! The need for ventilation is not the same with an electrical unit. Will check the specs for sure. Thanks!
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:59 AM   #28
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Also, the absorption fridge uses ammonia as its cooling medium. Because ammonia is POISON, the whole apparatus must be separated from the people space and vented directly.
Compressor fridges use Freon, or substitutes, which are inert and if they spring a leak, it is not deadly.
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