About the fridge opening... - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 02-14-2016, 10:17 PM   #29
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Name: Sylvio
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I found a 30-dollar electrical fridge that's 18" X 18". It's a little smaller than our 19" X 21" opening but the price is right. It even has a little freezer! We might use the extra space on top to make a little drawer someday...
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Old 02-18-2016, 10:22 AM   #30
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I have asked for some information on installing a dorm fridge in another thread.

Need help installing a dorm fridge!

All help will be appreciated.

Bill
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Old 02-18-2016, 04:15 PM   #31
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Local Walmart had a beautiful little fridge for about $139 that even had a separate freezer compartment with its own little door. May consider one...all electric, 110/120. Kind of a lot of draw, though, when we're hoping to be all battery/solar eventually.
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:34 PM   #32
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Name: Sylvio
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Moving along to get the old Boler ready for vacations...

The last unexplored territory is under the counter! So do I understand that I can rip of the sheet of metal and the plexiglass? (See upside down picture on first post).

I'm still somewhat preoccupied with water coming in while driving in the rain. Any words of wisdom?

Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2016, 12:14 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Cereal View Post
Very helpful. Thanks guys!

Any risks of water coming in? While driving especially?

My vent cover / grill is broken: two slats are missing. I'll need to find a place that sells stuff like that.
Yes with broken slats there is a good chance you can get water coming in.
The vent covers are still available from various RV supply stores. It will be easiest to find them using the overall dimensions in the keyword searches.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:45 AM   #34
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Name: Sylvio
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K C, I didn't state the obvious: I have new vents... I wrote about it in other threads, but not here. My fault.

So my questions are:

Won't water come in while driving in the rain with my new vents?!

Can I remove the metal shield and the plexiglass or do they play a role to keep the water out?

Thanks!
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:29 AM   #35
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Water does come into that compartment while driving down the road in heavy rain. Like stated previously, the compartment is sealed to the refrigerator body so fumes, dust, bugs, cold/heat, and rain do not enter into the living area, but the floor does get wet and drains out the bottom. When I installed our NovaKool in our 13' Scamp, I painted the floor with a roof sealant, insulated around the refrigerator with styrofoam and reflectix, as much as there was room for, resealed the refrigerator body to the trailer body as it had been with the 3 way refrigerator, and then used the aluminized duct tape on the inside of the vented door, from about 6" up from the bottom, and left the top vent above the belly band as it was. This cut down on the amount of water intrusion, but was more than adequate for ventilation for the 12 volt refrigerator.
Good Luck
Dave & Paula
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:40 AM   #36
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I have covered in old vents by making a sheet metal plate. To close it off I got a piece of aluminum sheet metal cut to size. I cut it to size myself as we have tools for that but any sheetmetal shop can shear it to exact size for you. It is a small job, think beer Friday for payment and the time to approach them for the work as they often don't want to bother invoicing such small a job and would have to charge you a lot more, the shop minimum, if they did the paperwork. A six pack is often a good currency at such places for little jobs. When you get it home round the corners off with a metal file. After you get the metal sized transfer the marks for the mounting screws and drill those locations. Clean the metal with acetone and then spray self etching primer on it. Spray with auto primer and lastly put on a finish coat of auto enamel that is aclose color match to the shell. Put some butyl putty tape under the edges and screw it in place. Job done.

While it is possible to fill the holes in with fiberglass, I did do that on my fridge openings in the motorhome, that is considerably more work and more expense than creating a flat sheet metal cover. Also it is harder to reverse should someone want to go back to having a gas fired fridge. The reason I fiberglassed in my fridge openings is because I changed the layout of the interior and was no longer going to have a fridge at that location. I have 2 fiberglass RVs now, plus sometimes travel with a friend in his boat or his van. Therefore my solution is a portable AC/DC fridge that I can move into the rig I will be traveling in. Too expensive to give each one its own built in fridge.
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:12 AM   #37
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I glassed my opening in. I used 1/8 door skin on the inside as it is stiff yet still conforms to the curve of the body.
The beauty of fiberglass is if it doesn't look right you just sand it off and re-apply. Pretty straightforward.
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