AC Unit in Parkliner Camper - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-17-2015, 06:46 PM   #1
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Name: Kevin
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AC Unit in Parkliner Camper

I have the factory supplied 5000 btu AC unit installed inside my Parkliner. On really hot days I use a floor fan to circulate the AC throughout the camper. This works just fine but I am always looking for tweaks I can make to the camper. Has anyone installed a fan behind the AC unit in the open space between the rear of the AC unit and the exterior exhaust vent to push out the hot air created by the AC unit and if so did this increase the efficiency of the AC unit?
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Old 05-18-2015, 10:02 AM   #2
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As AC units get more and more compact/efficient, it would be nice to find a larger BTU unit to replace the original. It's rather marginal. I gather they now offer a roof AC which is a nice improvement. Better storage space too.

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Old 05-18-2015, 11:39 AM   #3
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Hot air rises and perhaps if the top vent is cracked a little the hottest air will escape and the trailer will 'fill" up with cooler air from the A/C.
On my modification of the Scamp 16' witha mini-split the inside unit will mount at the rear over the rear window to draw in the hot air at the top and then blow it back through the length of the trailer.
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Old 05-18-2015, 11:50 AM   #4
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We have a 5000 btu air conditioner installed in our trailer. We attempt to separate the exhaust vents from the intake vents of the air conditioner. As well we draw air in from the coolest place, under the trailer and power the exhaust air out.

We blow exhaust air out of the trailer with two computer 12 volt muffin fans.

We draw air into the air conditioner from the coolest place, under the trailer. We tried fans on the cool air intake but noted no improvement.

We also use a fan to move air around in the trailer.
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Old 05-18-2015, 12:01 PM   #5
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Sorry if this is a lame question but I have always wondered if there was a way to recirculate the interior pre-conditioned air back through the ac much the same way a car ac works?
Wouldn't that take a bit of the edge offs?


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Old 05-18-2015, 03:00 PM   #6
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Trailer: '88 Scamp 16, layout 4
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Not a PL but in my Scamp with side-mount A/C (6,000 BTU) I mounted a 12V, 10 inch, automotive auxiliary radiator fan behind the unit to help exhaust the hot air. I have no scientific data to support my assertion, but am very confident that it is a real help. The space around the unit is so tight and the air flow so constricted by screen and louvers that it cannot help but do some good. The air coming out is HOT and since the intake is right above the hot, rising exhaust I felt it was $30 total (fan was like $19.99 on fleabay) well spent. I have considered replacing the exterior Scamp factory grill with a louvered door that could be opened if conditions allow so the unit could exhaust freely but have other projects more pressing.

I REALLY like the side mount A/C just for service and low cost replacement. I paid $179 plus tax for the 6K unit I installed, just go out and price a roof top unit. Also, consider the added weight up high, the additional hole in the roof, and the drag associated with a roof unit. I think the side unit is the way to go (at least for me) as long as it will do what you need. We spent a week at the beach (St Joseph State Park, FL) exactly one year ago next week and although the unit ran 24/7 we were very comfortable, and that was before I added the radiator fan.

My A/C went out at the house last Friday so Saturday I stopped at Lowes and picked up an 8,000 BTU window unit ($239) to get me through the weekend and give me some room to negotiate a fix for the house unit. This 8,000 is very similar in physical size to the 6,000 I put in my Scamp. If I had it to do over I might see if I could shoe-horn an 8K in the Scamp for just a little more margin.

Good luck!
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Old 05-18-2015, 07:51 PM   #7
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Name: George
Trailer: 2014 Parkliner
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The question and thread topic is very timely. I just purchased a 2014 PL 3 days ago. I'm still learning the systems, in my driveway. My PL has the same interior AC. A previous owner sold bc it didn't cool enough. I also placed a fan in front of the AC unit to direct cold air to the ceiling. Works great. I thought my AC issues were solved until I notice the heat generated. Not sure what to do at this point. 5 min ago I check this forum and the topic on top addressed my exact situation.
I'll see where this goes.
Thanks everyone.
Great support.
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Old 05-19-2015, 07:22 AM   #8
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Thanks for all the feedback! I prefer the AC unit placement in the Parkliner as is (not a roof top). Just wish the space was a bit wider and taller so a larger unit could be installed. I will make do with the floor fan as a supplement when needed which works well and may install a small fan in the cavity behind the AC unit as suggested to push the hot air exhaust out of the camper faster and see if there is any improvement.
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Old 09-04-2015, 08:20 PM   #9
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Name: BillC
Trailer: Parkliner; 2013 Honda Ridgeline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
We have a 5000 btu air conditioner installed in our trailer. We attempt to separate the exhaust vents from the intake vents of the air conditioner. As well we draw air in from the coolest place, under the trailer and power the exhaust air out.

We blow exhaust air out of the trailer with two computer 12 volt muffin fans.

We draw air into the air conditioner from the coolest place, under the trailer. We tried fans on the cool air intake but noted no improvement.

We also use a fan to move air around in the trailer.
How do you remember to shut off the fans? Where did you mount the switch and does it have a light to indicate it's on?

I have a Parkliner with a so far marginal side mounted AC. I've added a 110v fan pointed up an that helps a bit. Cracking a roof vent until most of the hottest air is exhausted has also helped a bit. It's still marginal. I'm hoping the vent fans will provide some improvement.
Thanks
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Old 09-07-2015, 02:55 PM   #10
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Well Sid, that is how air conditioners work regardless the type. All an air conditioner really does is dehumidify and cool the air but even in full sized homes the cooling capacity of a unit (conventional type not some heat pumps) is less than most people would guess. It is the dehumidification that offers the most comfort increase. Obviously, the more Btu's removed the cooler the air but also the drier the air.
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Old 09-07-2015, 03:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillC View Post
How do you remember to shut off the fans? Where did you mount the switch and does it have a light to indicate it's on?

I have a Parkliner with a so far marginal side mounted AC. I've added a 110v fan pointed up an that helps a bit. Cracking a roof vent until most of the hottest air is exhausted has also helped a bit. It's still marginal. I'm hoping the vent fans will provide some improvement.
Thanks
We use a 12 volt Endless Breeze to blow air to the rear of the trailer. We do not open a vent.

Our exhaust fans for the back side of the AC are on a switch. I did not put a light on them but could have used a switch containing an LED, they're 12 volt fans.
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Old 09-07-2015, 03:05 PM   #12
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Our goal is to get the temperature to a comfortable level, that seems to be 79 F.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:24 PM   #13
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Name: BillC
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Improving AC cooling

Thanks. I picked up a couple of 12v computer fans a couple of days ago and plan to install them with a switch.
BillC
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Old 09-08-2015, 06:15 AM   #14
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Name: Huck
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Originally Posted by honda03842 View Post
Our goal is to get the temperature to a comfortable level, that seems to be 79 F.
I use a window ac in my bedroom at home. 79 is comfortable, 80 is hot. That is using a fan. Without the fan, temperature needs to be 3 or 4 degrees cooler.
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