Access doors

[Bobbie Mayer]

I would like to put some doors on the outside of the trailer that would open up into the under-seat storage areas (since I have the back of the bed area set up as a permanent bed I've lost easy access to two-thirds of the under-seat storage. My question is what people who have done this have used as doors?

Bobbie

[DanPatWork]

I would like to put some doors on the outside of the trailer that would open up into the under-seat storage areas (since I have the back of the bed area set up as a permanent bed I've lost easy access to two-thirds of the under-seat storage. My question is what people who have done this have used as doors?

Bobbie

Look at access hatch, marine hatch, rv exterior compartment door, etc.

I was able to find what we we're looking for on e-bay as a access hatch. Only slight tweaking was required for what I think will be the correct curvature to the bottom half of our scamp

[Bobbie Mayer]

Look at access hatch, marine hatch, rv exterior compartment door, etc.

I was able to find what we we're looking for on e-bay as a access hatch. Only slight tweaking was required for what I think will be the correct curvature to the bottom half of our scamp

Thanks, Dan. Luckily mine is not curved. Was there any trick to installing it?

Bobbie

[james kent]

I was told to mark it out from the INSIDE. Use the frame,not the door, to mark the opening and drill the corners. You can then cut the opening from outside knowing that you're not going to cut, drill, or bolt, into any cross structure. A little butyl tape, and some screws, and you're in business.

[Darwin Maring]

This dealer on EBay normally lists RV parts (many) to include hatch assemblies.

http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ2...Q3aMEFSQ3aMESOI

[Bill Murray]

I'd recommend putting a nice radius on the corners of your cutouts.
You might consider using a hole saw at each of the four corners to start the cutting, then draw tangent lines and cut them with a saw.
Sharp corners will initiate cracks due to vibration, etc.

[Darwin Maring]

You also need a backing plate (If the assembly does not come with one) so the fiberglass will be bolted rigid, (sandwiched) between the outside and inside plates. This will cut down on fiberglass flexing and will seal the outside plate tight against the butyl tape and fiberglass.

I was going to put a door on our Scamp 5r but could not find a suitable FLAT spot. The only places where it should go had a curvature to it and I didn't think I could get the door to seal tight and/or it would mess up the fiberglass by putting undue stress (Distorting) by screwing it down tight. Undue stress could lead to fiberglass cracking.

[DanPatWork]

Thanks, Dan. Luckily mine is not curved. Was there any trick to installing it?

Bobbie

It's only been test fitted so far. We're in the middle of a complete re-fit/paint and upgrades. In order to make the cutout, I first made a paper template out of some construction paper. I then taped the pattern to the exterior, and cut out from there. I started out short of the dimension and continued to test fit, and re-test, mixed with grinding and trimming. Our hatch will have no visible external screws or rivets. The screws will be underneath the butyl and surface lip, and will attach to a wooden backing frame that I have to make yet. The hatch will then be attached to the backing frame with screws on the inside of the frame. I plan to not re-install the metal hook at the lock and the hatch will be painted to match the rest of the camper.