Adding an Outlet to Cabinets - HOW? - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-15-2010, 09:37 AM   #15
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
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I have both a Fein oscillating tool and a Roto-Zip. I find both work quite well for cutting fiberglass materials. I have made several mods which have required cutting into the fiberglass, and both made excellent cuts. The problem with using a standard jig saw is that they tend to fracture and spawl the top coat of the fiberglass when used to cut it (chipping the finish).

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Old 06-15-2010, 06:41 PM   #16
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I have ONE more question that is related to this topic. Can you use a wood or wood/metal hole saw on the outside fiberglass of a boler?

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Old 06-16-2010, 03:03 PM   #17
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Trailer: former Boler, now 1980 Trillium 4500
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I have ONE more question that is related to this topic. Can you use a wood or wood/metal hole saw on the outside fiberglass of a boler?

Hi Gord,

Not having done it, I don't see why not. As you can tell from the posts, the fibreglass can be cut by many different types of blades. I have used hole saws (the kind that go into a drill like a regular drill bit) on many surfaces and never had a problem. They are similar to other kinds of saws, just round.

To answer your earlier question (I only get to review the forums once or twice a week), I always run the electrical wires inside the trailer, not outside, from the area under the kitchen where your electrical service is, around the back of the trailer attached to the inside of the rear dinette seats, and over to the area on the entry side where I need it, again under the rear dinette seats. On my trailer, to go from the one dinette seat to the other across the back I ran the wire under the insulation at the very back of the trailer (the trailer stop/turn light wiring is already there), and then covered the edge with a vinyl self-adhesive baseboard moulding for floors that I got from Home Depot for about $3. It also went very well with the new lino floor that we installed a couple of weeks ago, so it covers the wire and looks nice too.

As for the electrical service, when we bought our trailer it had essentially none, just a wire going into the trailer and a bunch of Marrette twist-on connectors to various other wires. So, I replaced the wire with a good quality power bar that has a power conditioner and a circuit breaker built in, attached to the inside of the little cupboard between the fridge and furnace. This served the purpose of distributing the electricity with more control and flexibility, and should be safer. Not as elaborate as a house circuit box, but works very well. As a bonus, I no longer had the long wire sticking out of the trailer that had to be connected to shore power and then rolled up again. Instead I use a standard outdoor extension cord, with a trailer connector adapter for the 15 amp service when required. Works great, easy to do.

Rick G
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Old 06-16-2010, 04:58 PM   #18
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Trailer: Boler 13 ft 1972
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Thanks Rick for the info! In regards to the hole saw, I did some research, and I've found fiberglass boat owners doing it, without issue. Some pre-drill with a smaller bit than the one on the hole saw. Then start to cut with the hole saw, lining up the bit in it. And they say to drill the hole saw backwards for a bit to help prevent chipping of the gelcoat. And then, go ahead steady and away you go.

My electrical service is an octagon box (that is the incoming power) and from there a wire goes to the outlet electrical box, and from there it goes up an aluminum pipe into the fluorescent light over the counter. That's all for my 110v. So its nice and tidy at least. The wire is solid aluminum. So I might change it someday. I suppose I should use 14 gauge stranded wire?

Oh, and I forgot to mention. I made my own GFCI protection extension cord. I took a water proof electrical box and installed a GFCI outlet, and attached it to an extension cord. So now my hole Boler is protected to ground shocks. I could have just put on in the outlet, but I didn't see the point since the outlet is good. My 1 year old son sleeps in a playpen and I wanted to make sure he was safe if he stuck his little fingers in there.
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Old 06-16-2010, 06:39 PM   #19
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Name: Rachel
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,014
Hi Gord,

Yes, boaters often use hole saws to cut holes into their boats. When doing it in an area of nice gelcoat, I would tape over the whole area with blue tape (or the like) to protect the surface. Plus, you can make marks on it with abandon. Just peel it off reasonably soon, as otherwise it will turn to concrete (or close to it!).


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