Adding rear jacks - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 04-13-2013, 12:32 PM   #29
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True, locating the stabilizers closer to the axle will moderate the too-low effect somewhat- but in my opinion it'll be at a cost.

I may be wrong, but I think that the farther "out" the stabilizers are placed, the greater the stability when deployed...close to the axle just seems too near the center of the load.

And regardless of location, if they hang below the frame at all, they're one more thing to catch/possibly break when camping off pavement with such an already-low trailer.

Francesca
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:37 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
I may be wrong, but I think that the farther "out" the stabilizers are placed, the greater the stability when deployed...close to the axle just seems too near the center of the load.
That depends on what instability you are trying to fix. If you are trying to take out the bounce of the suspension, you want to be close to the axle. Mine are a bit closer to the axle than the rear bumper, and work great.

If you are trying to fix a trailer which is tipping, then certainly at the corners is better.

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And regardless of location, if they hang below the frame at all, they're one more thing to catch/possibly break when camping off pavement with such an already-low trailer.
Sure, but the closer to the axle, the less likely to catch. Imagine the trailer unhitched and lifted at the tongue until something hits at the rear, and lowered to until something hits at the front - and how the location affects when it hits.
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Old 04-13-2013, 06:49 PM   #31
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There's also the goin' over backwards potential to be considered. Probably more of a consideration with longer trailers, but still...

The bounce doesn't really bother me, but the one time I had a full water tank and my old Mother and I went a-- over teakettle at the dinette sure did!

Hasn't happened again since I took out the water tank, though.

Francesca
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Old 04-26-2013, 06:35 PM   #32
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Okay, I'm looking at these jacks. Atwood 82301 Stabilizer Jack : Amazon.com : Automotive

I can't figure out if they are bolt on or weld on. Any clue? Any suggestion for better prices but quick delivery?

Bobbie
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:14 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Bobbie Mayer View Post
Okay, I'm looking at these jacks. Atwood 82301 Stabilizer Jack : Amazon.com : Automotive

I can't figure out if they are bolt on or weld on. Any clue? Any suggestion for better prices but quick delivery?

Bobbie
http://www.atwoodmobile.com/manuals/chassis/85860.pdf
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:29 PM   #34
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From the review on Amazon

3 of 7 people found the following review helpful

1.0 out of 5 stars my review
I assumed this would be a pair but was a single item. After I received this item I was able to find a pair at a local retailer for the same price of this single item. Did not return it as the shipping and restocking fee makes it to costly.
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:39 PM   #35
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They're very commonly sold one at a time, as Mike points out. The operating handle is extra, too. (I just used a piece of rebar with mine)

Here's a link to the whole shootin' match for $41.00 link

Francesca
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:47 PM   #36
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Here is a pair on EPAY for $25 - NOTE I have not compared the two -just surfing
2 Trailer Stabilizer Jacks Swing Down Levelers RV camper Cargo Utility | eBay

Pair of Trailer Stabilizer Jacks.
1,000 lb Capacity per jack.
Spring loaded swing down jacks.
Easy to use practical means of leveling or stabilizing lightweight trailer of all types, RV's, Cargo, Utility, Enclosed, Car haulers....
Jacks can be bolted or welded to the trailer tongue or frame.
Retracted height = 11.5", Extended height = 17.5", Lift = 6".
Folds down and telescopes down.
Ratchet bar/Handle rod NOT included. If you need the bar/handle, it's $2 extra. The bar is not needed, you can simply use your foot/hand to push the jack down.
Base Plate = 3-3/8" x 4"
Mounting Plate = 1-7/8" x 4", bolt holes are 3" o.c.

I disagree with the guy on ebay you do need a bar
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:58 PM   #37
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Heckuva buy, Mike!

And you're right- you do need a bar 'cause that's how you drop them and snug them up once dropped. ( vid below) But an extra two bucks sounds like a deal there, too!

Francesca

Atwood Stabilizer Jack - YouTube
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:59 PM   #38
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Thanks, I know the price is just one (except where it says two.) I can get the Amazon ones shipped through Prime two-day so that's a plus for me as the guy welding them on for me may have a tight schedule getting to it before I leave for Washington. The manual is great. I might or might not be able to get the EBay ones just as fast.

On the bar- I was assuming I'd need a handle but my friend who has them on her teardrop doesn't use one. What exactly does the handle do?
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:01 PM   #39
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We must've been typing at the same time, Bobbie!

See short vid in my post above...

Francesca
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Old 04-26-2013, 08:13 PM   #40
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I saw it, thanks, that helps a lot.
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:15 PM   #41
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I saw the video and without the guys narrative I wouldnt have understood what he was trying to show or tell everyone . Bobbie you drop the jack till it hits the ground and then you ratchet the jack a notch or two to cinch it up. But I have always used a 4x4 block of wood or you can buy some plastic squares that the jack feet distributes the weight of the jack stand and camper onto its surface. Otherwise you bury that little 3x3 foot into the mud or dirt. If you can wait the $23 per pair on ebay is good. Just remember to measure the length of your bumper to ground clearance and make sure that the 6"" drop and the lengths published will accomodate your bumper height. IMO
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Old 04-26-2013, 09:40 PM   #42
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I compared to the height of the ones I use now and these are actually covering a slightly broader range. I do understand how it works now. Most of our parking spots are on hard packed or paved surfaces so sinking in isn't an issue- I use those little pyramidal jack stands with big screws now and they work fine.

My friend is also going to figure out a better way to mount spare tire and propane tank, but I think we're going to stick with propane tank sitting in the spare tire- it fits perfectly- and just bolt the spare to the frame and add something to keep the propane tank secure. He took a look at my coupler and thinks it is in fine shape despite the rust that's visible and doesn't think it needs replacing.

I need to get the trailer work done as in a few weeks I'll head up to my daughter's to visit those new twin grandsons, and I'll be staying in the trailer- they didn't have room BEFORE the twins (who are arriving next week.) Then back to Washington.
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