Advice and Ideas Needed for Boler Repair - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-09-2016, 05:53 PM   #15
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Boler
Connecticut
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There was supposed to be a picture but it didint work
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:57 PM   #16
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Are you waiting long enough for it to download?
There should be a message ( at the bottom of the box ) telling you it is downloading.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:49 PM   #17
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Boler
Connecticut
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This is after I removed the kitchenette and the floor below and in front of it. It seems to be the only major rot in the camper besides one other small piece witch I am going to patch.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:51 PM   #18
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Name: Kevin
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Here is the kitchen as I found it. Is it worth trying to save or should I cut the countertop off and build the rest from plywood?
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:04 PM   #19
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Here is the outside
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Old 03-09-2016, 10:00 PM   #20
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Florida
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If the fiberglass molded "furniture" is sound, meaning not broken, You might want to keep it. The concern I would have with replacing the interior fiberglass with wood is the added weight. These little trailers were designed to be lightweight and the trailer is designed accordingly. If you add too much wood, the added weight could cause a weak spot in the frame to break too. Ian has a lot of good information on Bolers on his website that might help you.
Another very important fact when removing the interior components of these trailers, the closet and the kitchen cabinets support the roof. It looks like yours still have the supports on the left side of the kitchen counter by the sink. Those twisted iron bars are functional and provide support for the upper cabinets and the roof. If you remove the kitchen cabinets, especially the lower ones, you will need to support the roof or it will sag and be likely to crack or break. I hope this helps.
There is also a very informative thread on fiberglass repair. Search for fiberglass in the forums and you'll find it. Good luck and I look forward to more pictures on your progress.

Sorry, I missed that you already removed the lower kitchen cabinet. You might want to prop the upper cabinets or roof with a piece of lumber that's padded on the end contacting the roof. The sag may not be noticeable, but over time your roof could be damaged.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:29 PM   #21
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Trailer: Boler
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I don't plan on replacing the fiberglass furniture just the kitchen cabinets and I may only cut the front out of the bottom cabinets and replace it with wood because it has been so badly mutalated and I was not aware tholse little bars supported the roof thanks.
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:53 PM   #22
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Boler
Connecticut
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I am also trying to figure out a 12v system how should I hook up batteries etc. and how should I charge them should I use an inverter?
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:46 PM   #23
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Name: Sylvio
Trailer: 1975 Boler
Quebec
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Kevin,

I'm working on a Boler as well. I feel your pain...

How do you manage to post pictures without them being upside down? That's amazing to me...! I'm using an ipad as well.
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:19 PM   #24
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Boler
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Hahaha it took me an hour to figure out how to even put up a picture
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Old 03-10-2016, 09:34 PM   #25
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Name: Clive
Trailer: Boler American #3104
Florida
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Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin98 View Post
Here is the outside
That looks like a Boler American you have there.

The serial number should be on a plate on the left side of the tongue. What number is it?

There's a registry/history somewhere on here. I'll see if I can find it.


This is the thread I was thinking of ...
How many Boler AMERICANS are out there?
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Old 03-11-2016, 08:31 AM   #26
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Florida
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You can find out a lot about 12v systems on the solar thread on the forum. If you run 12v appliances you won't need an inverter. The inverter changes DC to AC. I have a fridge that runs on 110/12 but will be taking it out and using a 12v fridge instead. I plan to sell it if you are interested, but that's a couple of months in the future.

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Old 03-11-2016, 11:36 AM   #27
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: Boler
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My only concern is that 110 volt appliances are much easier to come by and a lot cheaper.
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Old 03-12-2016, 09:46 AM   #28
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Name: Lisa
Trailer: Boler 1974 13 ft
Florida
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True that 110 v are cheaper, until you factor in the campground fees where you will need to stay to have electric hookup. Those can be up to 50 - 65$ nightly. In some rv parks they go up even higher, esp at peak season times.

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