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08-16-2019, 07:27 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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advice on leaky toilet valve?
Hello,
I am attempting to repair a leak on my old toilet. This brand is long since discontinued I think, so I can't risk breaking anything. I'd like some advice. There is a leak at the white plastic arm where it attaches to the valve body. That arm is connected to the flush pedal by means of a threaded rod. There is a steady drip when the arm opens the valve to let water flow into the basin. I am hoping that if I carefully remove the parts I can replace a washer or something to repair the leak.
So far so good. I removed the arm but there remains a brass nut and a plastic cap that need to come off next I think. How should I do that without breaking something important? I preserved a caution sticker that reads: "Do not rotate valve arm and cap ass. from existing position on valve body."
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08-16-2019, 09:35 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Name: Mac
Trailer: 2013 Casita 17' LD
Oregon
Posts: 176
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I think the brass nut comes off next, and the whole valve body will come off with it.
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08-16-2019, 11:59 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Here's where a strap wrench would come in handy if you have one. I think that if you can remove the plastic assembly you would need some Teflon tape to use on the threads before installing the plastic assembly.
Of course the trick is to remove the plastic item without damage, maybe some lube such as WD40 or something similar. Spray the threads and let it soak in for a while before attempting removal.
If no strap wrench, I would protect the outer plastic area with duct tape three layers or more and try to budge it with a 12 to 14in Stilson pipe wrench. Go easy.
If you are successful make sure you add silicon lube between the handle and assembly for smooth operation.
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08-16-2019, 12:50 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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can't see in the pictures...
Is there a packing nut in the valve stem?
could you just replace the valve with a standard ball valve?
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08-16-2019, 01:10 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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He has a lot of oxidation to contend with.
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08-16-2019, 01:22 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Good idea Floyd, but I think the position of the handle when installed would present a problem with rotation on/off, although it could be a challenge to retrofit an addition to the handle to work properly.
Jack
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08-16-2019, 04:51 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
can't see in the pictures...
Is there a packing nut in the valve stem?
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Floyd, here's what I removed. I can't tell how the remaining plastic cap is held against the brass nut.
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08-16-2019, 04:58 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lockman
Here's where a strap wrench would come in handy if you have one. I think that if you can remove the plastic assembly you would need some Teflon tape to use on the threads before installing the plastic assembly.
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Jack, I do have a strap wrench. It sounds like you are saying the plastic cap is threaded into the assembly. Right? So that would mean I should gently rotate that plastic cap counterclockwise and unscrew it. Right?
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08-16-2019, 05:08 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spongelander
I think the brass nut comes off next, and the whole valve body will come off with it.
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Mac, that does seem an easier next step. I was wondering though, if I remove the nut and the plastic cap comes off with it -- well, I might still have to remove the plastic cap? It might be good to remove the white plastic cap first while I can leverage it against the brass nut? Because I don't know how these pieces fit together, or what and where the leak originates, I want to think it through before I start wrenching on 45-year old parts.
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08-16-2019, 05:19 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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nothing really dies on the internet...
What is the brand name of the toilet?
Maybe we could find an exploded diagram.
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08-16-2019, 05:35 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Monogram Industries, Inc. Model 460. Classic Sanitation Systems.
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08-16-2019, 08:02 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Brian,
Yes, I would think that the two pieces have to fit together somehow and the most reasonable would be a threaded assembly.
With the amount of oxidation between the two maybe something like "CLR" which stands for Calcium,Lime,Rust might be something to try to loosen up the crud. Should be available at your local hardware store or Home Depot. You will want to really soak this either in a bucket or use a rag to wrap the joint and pour on the CLR and let it sit for a long while.
Jack
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08-16-2019, 08:43 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Brian,
Wait a second, I have re-read your post and if I am correct the leak is coming from between the plastic handle and the plastic housing. If so you do not want to remove the plastic housing from the brass nut assembly. Your leak has to do with the valve stem the brass threaded piece that you allen is attached to in the pix. Since an allen goes into the end it might be a way to extract that stem. I would do it gently and first use something to loosen it up if it doesn't move freely.
There must be something worn away causing the problem. Maybe back then they used some packing cord to wrap the valve stem to prevent water from leaking out by the handle. I remember using it to prevent water from seeping out of connections before Teflon tape came around.
If a washer was causing the problem I would think it would be leaking when the water was shut off as well.
Worst case scenario would be to remove the large brass nut/body from the main assembly to look there.
Keep us posted.
Jack
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08-17-2019, 10:55 AM
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#14
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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Successful Disassembly
Jack, I think you were right about the leak coming through the stem. I managed to gently pop off the white plastic cap. Removing the brass cap gave me access to the stem components. I wonder if that tiny black o-ring (you can only see it in the last picture) that rests directly under the brass nut was the main culprit. As you pointed out, I did not have any leaks when the valve was in the closed position. I'll replace that o-ring and of course the red seat washer. Maybe that will solve my leak.
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08-17-2019, 11:25 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Jack
Trailer: Scamp 13
Massachusetts
Posts: 256
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Good job Brian,
Yes definitely replace the rubber "O" ring as the cause of the problem and also that valve seat red washer now that you have it apart.
Jack
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08-21-2019, 02:40 PM
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#16
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Member
Trailer: Miti Lite 1987
Posts: 86
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Probably that tiny o-ring in the pic is the one causing the leak. It's called a stem-seal, but is a simple bunyl o-ring, not metric but std. inch msm't. Likely found in a hardware store like Ace or Do-it-Best
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08-24-2019, 09:52 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Name: Brian
Trailer: '73 & '74 Hunter
Oklahoma
Posts: 278
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success
Yes, replacing the tiny o-ring solved the problem. No leaks now. Thank you all.
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