Advice repairing caved in Scamp 13 roof - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-25-2011, 10:59 AM   #15
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Name: Norm I want to thank all the Kings horses and all the Kings men
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Thank you for the replies and the kind words of encouragement. Also thank you for the link to stretching the Bigfoot. His accomplishment makes this look like child's play. The floor and understructure on my Scamp look surprisingly good so I think I would rather be doing the fiberglass work than what some others have had to do. Probably just me though since I like to see a visible dramatic improvement. I like the idea about riveting and gluing it back together first possibly in somewhat smaller chunks. Can I assume you meant that I should glue it using fiberglass resin (after removing all traces of wax and mold release)? Thank you. Norm
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Old 07-25-2011, 11:52 AM   #16
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Hi, Norm

It occurs to me that you might be able to temporarily support the roof from underneath by using flexible fiberglass poles like tents come with these days. They're surprisingly strong, can be cut/built to length, and are flexible enough to follow the curve of the trailer. And heaven knows there're lots of them around! You probably have some already, but if you don't, every thrift store has ratty old tents for a few bucks- and sometimes just the poles for even fewer bucks!

Francesca
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Old 07-25-2011, 01:50 PM   #17
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I vote for a pop up section, first of it's kind on a Scamp, may be easier to connect imperfect sections with canvass.
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Old 07-25-2011, 02:14 PM   #18
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If you follow Jim's suggestion (cpaharley2008), you might have one of these:

my friend ... my 1970 roamer rand vagabond and sillylilly59's Trailer :: gemima

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Old 07-25-2011, 02:28 PM   #19
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Caved in Scamp roof

That is an awfully challenging project you have taken on. My approach on the repair would be hook up with somebody who has the top half assembly ready to go and just swop it out. Your match might just be out there. For example, there was an ad posted here on 5-16-11 in the Classified Section (parts: buy/sell/trade) for BOLER SHELLS.
Good luck on your reno !

Deb
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Old 07-26-2011, 12:31 AM   #20
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Name: Norm I want to thank all the Kings horses and all the Kings men
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Raised the roof

I decided to see if I could lift the roof up in one piece. So far so good but a long way to go. I think removing the elephant skin may be as difficult as fixing the fiberglass.
Attached Thumbnails
Scamp roof rear.jpg   Scam roof front.jpg  

Scamp roof inside.jpg  
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Old 07-26-2011, 07:10 AM   #21
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Well, look at you! It IS a Scamp! Those pix make the job look doable.

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Old 07-26-2011, 09:45 AM   #22
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sure does......id get that fur off before trying any glues or resins or it'll just adhere it on better through all the cracks . I'll bet thats not east to do either though while its in pieces.
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Old 07-26-2011, 10:57 AM   #23
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Thanks for the pics, Norm!

Looks like you have most of the pieces, anyway
Will you be taking it off again to clean the elephant skin off?
I wondered if some kind of carefully applied solvent followed by pressure washing might do the trick, and it'd sure be easier to do upside down in the driveway!

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Old 07-26-2011, 11:39 AM   #24
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Name: Norm I want to thank all the Kings horses and all the Kings men
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Francesca Knowles View Post
Thanks for the pics, Norm!

Looks like you have most of the pieces, anyway
Will you be taking it off again to clean the elephant skin off?
I wondered if some kind of carefully applied solvent followed by pressure washing might do the trick, and it'd sure be easier to do upside down in the driveway!

Francesca
I mostly propped the top up to see if it would return to it's shape with the help of the sun. Not to gross anyone out but the skin comes off a lot like skinning a deer. I pull on it and use a knife wherever it is stuck. My wife says I need to remove the skin from the entire inside so that is what I'll do. Some areas may not conform on their own so I am thinking of glassing in some 1/8" x 2" wide aluminum strips since it could be permanently bent. I wonder it the different heat expansion rate would be a problem though. Perhaps wood is better.
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Old 07-26-2011, 11:56 AM   #25
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Hi Norm

Good question!
You're really thinking this through
Ken over in the Bigfoot Stretching thread might be able to answer the heat expansion question.
He's just as nice as pie- maybe if you asked he'd "drop in" here when he's got a minute to take a look ...

Francesca
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:21 PM   #26
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Hi Norm: My project should be ready to work on the interior in the next few weeks. I can tell you how we did some of this. For temporary support I used adjustable poles and 2x4 studs with plywood squares on the end for initial support inside to get some of the cracks to line up in the proper position. Then using two plates inside and out you screw all this together with dry wall screws. Don't make this continuous, just enough to get the cracks back in the orginal position. I used the thin metal plates with rows of holes from the big box store. I screwed the outer plates from outside while my son lined up the inner plate holes to match the position of the outer plate. Then draw the two pieces of metal together with the skin sandwiched between. They are thin and flexible and conform to the curves of the skin. Do the fiberglass repair to the unplated sections first starting and the ends of the cracks working toward the center. Grind back the edges of the cracks a few inches to a tapered thin edge then glass those. Let these reinforced sections cure. Then move the plates and poles to new positions to get more cracks to line up. Glass the new lined up areas and continue till you remove all the last plates and glass those areas. Don't try to glass over the metal plates. Fiberglass is strong enough to do all of the repairs and is grindable to deck a new flat surface without anything else. Good luck with your project. It is do-able just lots of dirty work.

As for anything like the rat fur inside. Remove it and grind off any remaining adhesive all the way down to the fiberglass to get good adhesion for your fiberglass repair inside.
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:46 PM   #27
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HEY!-er- HeyCurt!

I've been racking my brain trying to remember who posted about a cracked Bigfoot earlier this year...and it must have been you I was thinking of.
Aren't you the guy that bought this trailer at FGRV's4sale?


Sounds like you're just the person Norm needs to hear from.
And I'll bet we'd all like to see pictures of your repairs to the roof, if you've got any...

Francesca
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Old 07-26-2011, 02:56 PM   #28
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Name: Norm I want to thank all the Kings horses and all the Kings men
Trailer: 73 Scamp 13'
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Thank you for the suggestions. Not sure if you can tell by the pics but in most cases the fiberglass broke in such a way that it one piece overlaps another. At first I was thinking I could epoxy them together just the way they came apart and use rivets to hold them in place, drill out the rivets and glass over the whole thing. I think what you are saying is I should grind the edges so both are tapered toward the inside of the camper. I suspect your way would be easier in the long run and the seams would be flatter as well. May be a little more difficult to know when the pieces are lined up due to not having the overlap from where it tore apart though. Hmm
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