AIR CONDITIONER

[georgia g]

The holidays are over and we are back at our Trillium project. This came with a 5000 btu window air conditioner. Not very nice looking. #1. Do they make less than 5000 BTU? That seem excessive. #2 Is there another place to install other than window? And if so how is the moisture eliminated. While browsing this site I think I have seen pictures of A/C in closets etc. You have always answered my stupid question before so maybe there are some answers out there. Thanks. georgia

[Per Walthinsen]

I can comment on a couple of points: I installed a 5000Btu unit in a cabinet under the bed of my trailer, and it required fairly elaborate ducting and helper fans to get it into the "stealth" category. This is about as small as you can get in a window unit except for the "dog-house" units.
Our Burro is on the larger side of interior volume for a fiberglass trailer but also one of the better insulated. While the 5000Btu capacity will keep it cool under most conditions here in the Northwest it will not be enough when the temps get into the 90es, when you need it the most.
I find that when you need it the most the ability to quickly bring the temperature down from a heat-soak condition is quite important, meaning extra capacity. In our case it may take one or more hours to do it, which is not that useful for us the way we use the trailer.
I will be looking for a 8- to 10000 Btu unit that will physically fit mine in order to get a more competent setup.

Our current unit was put into a fiberglassed pan with a drain through the floor as backup to the drain from the unit itself. Probably overkill, but I don't like the idea of water collecting where I cannot get to it easily. If I' m not mistaken some of the newer units tend to direct water in a mist through the exhaust air stream, thereby reducing or eliminating the usual drain path.
My recommendation is: 5000 Btu may be enough for a 13 footer or equivalent, but a 16 or 17 footer needs 8- to 10000 Btus to be competent.

[April Wilcox]

We don't have an AC installed yet, but I have done quite a bit of research trying to find the best solution for us. I have noticed the closet by the door seems to be a popular spot, just on top of the wheel well. This looks like a good place to me because it can support the weight and centralizes the AC, though you do give up a bit of storage space. I searched and searched for a lower BTU solution, and have not come up with anything that looks like it will do any good in really hot conditions. It seems to be commonly agreed upon that 5000btu's is the minimum you want for a 13' to get good results in 90+ weather.

If you don't mind sitting through this video slide show

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W638vr-6tN8

about 1/2 way through, it shows how a guy replaced and fixed up the AC in the closet, which you can use as a guide to decide if you would want to go that rout, or find another solution,or just see what it will look like. Best of luck to you!

[Dave Baston]

Hi Georgia,
Happy New's Eve! I replied to your other queston in cleaning you interior ensolite. Did you try that? I restored a total of 4 Trillium's and 1 Scamp that had that same ensolite. One Trillium I bought, the guy installed behind the spare tire, and did a nice job. I have photos I can send you. Let me know.
Dave
"The Trillium King"

[Phil Underwood]

on our older Casita i mounted in the rear window.. Worked great

install info here

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...c=26643&hl=

[Phil Underwood]

one more pic

[Bob H]

If you don't mind sitting through this video slide show

about 1/2 way through, it shows how a guy replaced and fixed up the AC in the closet, which you can use as a guide to decide if you would want to go that rout, or find another solution,or just see what it will look like. Best of luck to you!

Thank you April, for plugging my Video, coming from you it's like getting a celebrity endorsement!

ConwayBob

[Bob H]

If you do consider a AC install, I naturally recommend putting it in the closet, it's where Scamp originally put em' and unless you have internal renforcement in the ceiling or around the windows already built-in, it's about the only place that you can put a AC without radical bracing or modification.

Mounting a 50-60 lb AC in a window poses difficulties. It will need outside support, a fiberglass trailer windowsill can't handle a lot of weight stress without some kind of framing, and every single bump in the road will add stresses in places that were not originally designed for such loads. Don't do it right and you can risk leaving your AC on the railroad tracks you just crossed. And do you want a window taken up with a AC all the time? The center rear window is the best location IMHO. There's built-in bracing for the dinette table there.

BTW, Phil & Denise's window install is 'bout the neatest I've seen.

Floor mounting is good, but as I see it the front right cheek by the door, directly under the dinette, or dead center over the toungue under the gaucho bench are about the only places to put it, & all don't lend themselves too well to distributing cool air without ducting. Put the AC in the bottom of the closet & it'll be in the center of the cabin. You might get a cool tushy while cooking dinner but that's about it.

Celing's no good unless you have framing support built-in, pretty extensive work if it was not built in by the factory.

5000 BTU is the correct size for 13'rs. That's just about right to cool that much cubic feet of interior space.

My last argument for a closet install is this...next to a refridgerator, a AC is the heaviest appliance you'll put in your trailer. Putting it in the closet will place that 50-60 lb. chunk directly over the axle, and close to the floor where it's weight will have the least effect on loading of the trailer, & it's center of gravity.

I'm very happy with my closet install.



Good Luck,
ConwayBob

[georgia g]

My last argument for a closet install is this...next to a refridgerator, a AC is the heaviest appliance you'll put in your trailer. Putting it in the closet will place that 50-60 lb. chunk directly over the axle, and close to the floor where it's weight will have the least effect on loading of the trailer, & it's center of gravity.

I'm very happy with my closet install.
Good Luck,
ConwayBob

We like the closet installation best. Could you tell me if you have an outside vent? Does it need an air vent? Did you attach a hose to eliminate moisture? Through the floor?
We have the place for it but not sure how elaborate the installation has to be. Thanks again. georgia

[Dave Baston]

Hi,
I restored 4 Trillium's. One had a 5,000 BTU installed and mounted behind the spare tire. I can e-mail you photos, it worked out nicely.
Dave
The Trillium King

[Bob H]

We like the closet installation best. Could you tell me if you have an outside vent? Does it need an air vent? Did you attach a hose to eliminate moisture? Through the floor?
We have the place for it but not sure how elaborate the installation has to be. Thanks again. georgia

In my

video on youtube

you can see that I took a paint-roller pan and made it into a moisture collector, I made a drain hole in it, and routed tubing from it into the wheel well. Then I built a baffle for the back of the unit so that outside air could get to the unit from the sides and top, while exhaust air could vent directly out. This way I only had to have one opening on the outside. The external opening was covered with a port door bought from Scamp, but most RV Parts dealers have such access doors available. I operate the AC with the access door open. Since that video I've added an additional deflector that sends the warm exhaust air up & out.

All my materals came from Lowes...
Scrap OSB Plywood for the base frame
$1.98 paint roller pan
1' piece of 1/2"rubber hose
2 sheets of aluminum furnace duct materal
1 roll of real metal duct tape, (the kind used to make metal air ducts...they sell rolls of the stuff next to the sheets)
assorted screws, nails, ect.

No need for fancy tools or a sheet bender or such...it don't have to be pretty, you're gonna be putting everything in the closet. Hammer, pliers, drill, skill saw, tin-snips...simple hand tools.

The outside access door will require drilling and riveting.

The important points to work for is to get a AC unit narrow enough for air to get to the sides in the closet, mount the unit with at least a 5/8ths inch rise to let condensation to run to the back of the unit, some way to trap & drain consendation to the outside, and most importantly, COMPLETELY isolate the front of the unit (and the cabin air), from the rear of the unit (and the outside air).

There are some who put a window AC on drawer-rail contraption that'll allow you to push the AC partially out the outside hole to work but as long as you allow good ventallation to the heat exchanger portion of the AC, (it's rear radiator coil), as well as a good drain, you can mount the AC in the closet & make it look almost factory installed.
Mine was installed GEFM, (Good Enuff For Me)

Drop me a line anytime if you go this route & have any more questions.
Good Luck,
ConwayBob

[georgia g]

The important points to work for is to get a AC unit narrow enough for air to get to the sides in the closet, mount the unit with at least a 5/8ths inch rise to let condensation to run to the back of the unit, some way to trap & drain consendation to the outside, and most importantly, COMPLETELY isolate the front of the unit (and the cabin air), from the rear of the unit (and the outside air).

Drop me a line anytime if you go this route & have any more questions.
Good Luck,
ConwayBob

One more question. Been online shopping for an inexpensive A/C unit that meets the right dimensions. Which make is yours. It looks nice and compact. Thanks,

[Bob H]

One more question. Been online shopping for an inexpensive A/C unit that meets the right dimensions. Which make is yours. It looks nice and compact. Thanks,

It's a Fridgidare, bought it at Lowes for $89 (On Sale)
It's width is 16", and it gave me 2" of space between the closet walls on each side.
Before you buy, take a tape measure out to your closet and jot down what you find. You will be resting everything on the top of the wheel well. I found that to get the AC front to clear the sill of the closet opening, I had to build a mount that was about 4" high, plenty of room for a moisture collector tray, (my paint roller pan). My mount rests firmly on the wheel-well with one corner (the left front) with a leg piece to extend down to the floor.
This is a great little project, you'll have fun.

ConwayBob

[Phil Underwood]

thanks for your comment Bob, and for what its worth if i had seen your install i would have done mine in the closet.

[georgia g]

It's a Fridgidare, bought it at Lowes for $89 (On Sale)
It's width is 16", and it gave me 2" of space between the closet walls on each side.
Before you buy, take a tape measure out to your closet and jot down what you find. You will be resting everything on the top of the wheel well. I found that to get the AC front to clear the sill of the closet opening, I had to build a mount that was about 4" high, plenty of room for a moisture collector tray, (my paint roller pan). My mount rests firmly on the wheel-well with one corner (the left front) with a leg piece to extend down to the floor.
This is a great little project, you'll have fun.

ConwayBob

Thanks Bob for your help and I would appreciate your comments on a discussion my husband and I are having. Does it matter which side of the Trillium the frig is on? Long story short...We gutted this project and have put in a new stove, reinstalled the sink into new counter, made the frig opening larger to accommodate a large applicance. We are retired, former fulltime rvers and will be using this only for overnite stops when we travel. Decided to get a standard elec frig but haven't found one yet. Could the frig go in the closet, allowing for a taller applicance, (many found on Craigslist) and the AC under the stove where we already have 2 vents? Large enough to set in a tray and a hose for drainage. That would also leave enough space on top of the AC for a small micro? This would eliminate cutting another vent space in the closet. How much surround air is needed around the frig? We had one in a small space in the house with no problem. Hope this isn't too rambling. Any comments would be appreciated. georgia

PS As we progress to the next project I am sure I will pose more questions. Wiring is coming up next!! and then recovering and retrofitting bed/dinette.

[Bob H]

Thanks Bob for your help and I would appreciate your comments on a discussion my husband and I are having. Does it matter which side of the Trillium the frig is on? Long story short...We gutted this project and have put in a new stove, reinstalled the sink into new counter, made the frig opening larger to accommodate a large applicance. We are retired, former fulltime rvers and will be using this only for overnite stops when we travel. Decided to get a standard elec frig but haven't found one yet. Could the frig go in the closet, allowing for a taller applicance, (many found on Craigslist) and the AC under the stove where we already have 2 vents? Large enough to set in a tray and a hose for drainage. That would also leave enough space on top of the AC for a small micro? This would eliminate cutting another vent space in the closet. How much surround air is needed around the frig? We had one in a small space in the house with no problem. Hope this isn't too rambling. Any comments would be appreciated. georgia

PS As we progress to the next project I am sure I will pose more questions. Wiring is coming up next!! and then recovering and retrofitting bed/dinette.

I can't comment as to how you want to configure your Trill's interior, I've never seen a Trillium, & never seen the insides of one personally. I can only go on the design simularities of a lot of Fiberglass Trailer brands to offer opinion. Since there is a natural limit as to how many ways to configure a trailer with a limited amount of space, there's only so many ways you can arrange a sink, stove, refridgerator, AC, & heater in any particular combination. Besides, you have to be happy with your trailer, not me.

The closet, as I see it, is about the only area of free standing space in a basic stock trailer that can contain large loads without radically effecting it's center of gravity, and looking at things in a trailering perspective, keep your largest, heaviest appliances as low to the floor & as close to the axle as possible is the most logical choice.

A electric dorm-room type fridge is what I'm using in my Scamp, right under the stove. But I'm thinking you could stick the AC there and put a larger Fridge in the bottom of the closet like you suggest. It would effect side to side load distribution, but since it'd be right over the axle, that effect would be minimized. I'd only think you'd have a harder time installing the AC and properly ventlating it on it's backside. And perhaps, since it'd be blowing it's cool air closer to the floor and mostly toward the door it might be less efficient.

Although you started with a blank slate, you've already added things in a layout, limiting your options. Unless you have departed greatly from how Trilliums are typically fitted out, I wouldn't think you have many choices to make. But I do say that putting a larger fridge in the closet is attractive.

ConwayBob

[georgia g]

I can't comment as to how you want to configure your Trill's interior, I've never seen a Trillium, & never seen the insides of one personally. I can only go on the design simularities of a lot of Fiberglass Trailer brands to offer opinion. Since there is a natural limit as to how many ways to configure a trailer with a limited amount of space, there's only so many ways you can arrange a sink, stove, refridgerator, AC, & heater in any particular combination. Besides, you have to be happy with your trailer, not me.

The closet, as I see it, is about the only area of free standing space in a basic stock trailer that can contain large loads without radically effecting it's center of gravity, and looking at things in a trailering perspective, keep your largest, heaviest appliances as low to the floor & as close to the axle as possible is the most logical choice.

A electric dorm-room type fridge is what I'm using in my Scamp, right under the stove. But I'm thinking you could stick the AC there and put a larger Fridge in the bottom of the closet like you suggest. It would effect side to side load distribution, but since it'd be right over the axle, that effect would be minimized. I'd only think you'd have a harder time installing the AC and properly ventlating it on it's backside. And perhaps, since it'd be blowing it's cool air closer to the floor and mostly toward the door it might be less efficient.

Although you started with a blank slate, you've already added things in a layout, limiting your options. Unless you have departed greatly from how Trilliums are typically fitted out, I wouldn't think you have many choices to make. But I do say that putting a larger fridge in the closet is attractive.

ConwayBob

Thanks for confirming our thoughts on the layout. You are right...there are only so many options and from what I have looked at this site, most are pretty similar. Our only limitation right now is finding a frig not more than 18 1/2" wide. We shall see. Are plans are to be totally electric with a small generator on the tongue. After all gotta have the TV, computer and coffee even if we are sitting overnight at a Flying J. Todays project was repairing U-shaped shelving overhead. Looks pretty good. Can't wait to upload pictures when completed. This work in progress will not be for the "purists" that want everything restored exactly but being retired and only 2 people using it, I think it will work fine for us. Thanks again. G

[Raya]

Can't wait to upload pictures when completed. This work in progress will not be for the "purists" that want everything restored exactly but being retired and only 2 people using it, I think it will work fine for us. Thanks again. G

You know, you're killing those of us who like to sit around with graph paper and doodle, or who lie awake at night thinking, "Oh, that might work!"

I am trying to be patient, but.... a peek?

Raya

[georgia g]

You know, you're killing those of us who like to sit around with graph paper and doodle, or who lie awake at night thinking, "Oh, that might work!"

I am trying to be patient, but.... a peek?

Raya

Hi Raya...I contacted you when you had your trillium for sale. Wish we had purchased t that one but we were gunshy but now you can see what we got outselves into. I don't mind sharing pictures and we will but...with projects going on it looks sooooo bad. I have a vision of what it will be like but right now I would be too embarassed. LOL. Need to get the frig and A/C installed and then it will all come together. Oh yes, our friend the electrician comes on Monday. I cannot believe my good fortune of finding this site. I have never met such friendly, helpful people. My husband will be frustrated with a problem and I just say, "Hang on a minute and I will post your problem and someone always has an answer. He is a believer now too. I have read so many idea online. Everything from solor power to (and my favorite) how to recover the cusions without sewing. Thanks all. georgia

[Raya]

Hi Georgia,

I hadn't made the connection, but I do remember you now. You were on your way out of town when I had the Trillium up for sale (and I had just been to Florida the week before).

Just remember, photos of the trailer all torn apart, broken, etc aren't "messy" shots; they're "before" pictures! The worse they are, the more dramatic the contrast when you do whip it into shape.

I'll try to be patient and jam my into a box or something