air conditioner - Page 6 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-01-2015, 11:20 AM   #71
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Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
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Has anybody tried cracking the vent? One of the guys here cooks on the Bar B Que circuit and he says it helps get the super-heated air out and replace it with cooler air.
It won't cost much to try.
We did the same thing with a industrial electrical room with 5000 hp AC drives to reduce the heat load and it helped up out. Our main problem was filtering the dust that was drawn in with the make up air. Filters and fans took care of that.
Oh yeah the original A/C was (and are) dual 65 ton (780000 BTU for the purists among us) units. They keep up now which they did not before the change. (BTW this was for a single unit since with this application if you need one 65 tons you need the second if the first one fails to keep the drive running!)
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:26 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Has anybody tried cracking the vent? One of the guys here cooks on the Bar B Que circuit and he says it helps get the super-heated air out and replace it with cooler air.
It won't cost much to try.
We did the same thing with a industrial electrical room with 5000 hp AC drives to reduce the heat load and it helped up out. Our main problem was filtering the dust that was drawn in with the make up air. Filters and fans took care of that.
Oh yeah the original A/C was (and are) dual 65 ton units. They keep up now which they did not before the change. (BTW this was for a single unit since with this application if you need 65 tons you need the second if one fails to keep the drive running!)

Since when are A/C units rated in tons. The standard is BTU (British Thermal Units).
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:45 AM   #73
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OK if you insist they are rated 780,000 BTU. 65 ton is easier to remember.
Since I am old I think in terms of old things and old ratings. That doesn't mean I can't think think in terms of "new" units. ( I have added the BTUs above).
Tons have been used by HVACR professionals probably since Willis Carried invented the process in 1902 (I was not there contrary to popular belief).
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:46 AM   #74
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With my roof-mount unit, we've ALWAYS ran with the Fantastic fan unit "cracked" a bit along with a couple of the windows (kitchen/bath). Now mind you, I dont camp in 0 deg weather (heat unit on A/C) and wont if I can help it. In cooler weather where we ran heat, we still crack the vent/windows.

As far as the A/C's concerned, we've stayed in 90+ deg weather in the sun and never had an issue. 9K BTU's though.


Quote:
Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Has anybody tried cracking the vent? One of the guys here cooks on the Bar B Que circuit and he says it helps get the super-heated air out and replace it with cooler air.
It won't cost much to try.
We did the same thing with a industrial electrical room with 5000 hp AC drives to reduce the heat load and it helped up out. Our main problem was filtering the dust that was drawn in with the make up air. Filters and fans took care of that.
Oh yeah the original A/C was (and are) dual 65 ton units. They keep up now which they did not before the change. (BTW this was for a single unit since with this application if you need 65 tons you need the second if one fails to keep the drive running!)
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:48 AM   #75
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My home central unit is a 2 ton unit w/A/C & Natural gas furnace. In my area they judge what "ton" unit you need by the sq. footage of your home that will be heated/cooled. Typical window units I've seen are rated by BTU's only.

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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
OK if you insist they are rated 780,000 BTU. 65 ton is easier to remember.
Since I am old I think in terms of old things and old ratings. That doesn't mean I can't think think in terms of "new" units.
Tons have been used by HVACR professionals probably since Willis Carried invented the process in 1902 (I was not there contrary to popular belief).
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Old 06-01-2015, 11:59 AM   #76
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Your temp differential 55/79 is good and shows that the a/c unit is doing what it should.


And you can't just vent the hot air out the top without letting some more hot air in. To work, your inside air has to be a complete closed circuit. I agree, if the return air is already at 79 you will never get cool with the surface area and insulation you have. A bigger a/c that can recirculate more air faster is about the only answer other than improving your insulation, and the reflectix over the windows is known to help a lot.


Now, if you could only wrap the entire camper in reflectix, with a 4" air space between ?????
Cracking the vent works well when using a low mount A/C. No measurable hot air is let in through the roof vent if it is opened only enough to let the hottest ceiling air escape thereby allowing the cabin to fill with cold air by displacing the hotter air which rises.

Still... roof mount A/C remains the best solution for RV trailers.
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Old 06-01-2015, 12:09 PM   #77
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Still... roof mount A/C remains the best solution for RV trailers.

If you don't mind the cost. weight high on top of the trailer, form drag and increased height for clearance under carport. Oh yeah the noise for some of the units.

Other that those possible drawbacks the roof mount is definitely the best solution for RV trailers.

Plus features. All in one design. Cools the hottest air at the top. Made for RVs. Directs the air where you probably want it. Not bad either.

Of our little trailers they are probably too large and the weight is a larger percentage of the total and shifts the Center of Gravity higher to the detriment of handling.

The window unit is not a bad compromise if it can be made to work in your locale.
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Old 06-01-2015, 04:26 PM   #78
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For what it's worth, none of the drawbacks really affects my 13' Scamp that I can feel. NOW, if I was to try and park it in a garage, yes.

I get 20 mpg...cant really argue with "drag" on that one...but it DOES affect it- to that I will agree. In the aviation world, it's considered "parasitic" drag. But it sure beats letting in the parasites at night! And with the weight on top, I'm sure it can affect the infamous rivets where it has to do with structural strength (side to side movement when traveling) etc.

One thing you didnt mention as a plus I really like - besides the excellent cooling quality- is the room it saves over taking up space in a closet or floor if mounted there. Both is "GOLD" in a 13' trailer . And, the weight...though heavier on top....IS centered left/right/fore/aft over the axle so it doesnt affect the horizontal balance of the trailer....as would adding a heavier rear window unit would tend to.

Just some more thoughts....

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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Still... roof mount A/C remains the best solution for RV trailers.

If you don't mind the cost. weight high on top of the trailer, form drag and increased height for clearance under carport. Oh yeah the noise for some of the units.

Other that those possible drawbacks the roof mount is definitely the best solution for RV trailers.

Plus features. All in one design. Cools the hottest air at the top. Made for RVs. Directs the air where you probably want it. Not bad either.

Of our little trailers they are probably too large and the weight is a larger percentage of the total and shifts the Center of Gravity higher to the detriment of handling.

The window unit is not a bad compromise if it can be made to work in your locale.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:25 PM   #79
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Originally Posted by redbarron55 View Post
Still... roof mount A/C remains the best solution for RV trailers.

If you don't mind the cost. weight high on top of the trailer, form drag and increased height for clearance under carport. Oh yeah the noise for some of the units.

Other that those possible drawbacks the roof mount is definitely the best solution for RV trailers.

Plus features. All in one design. Cools the hottest air at the top. Made for RVs. Directs the air where you probably want it. Not bad either.

Of our little trailers they are probably too large and the weight is a larger percentage of the total and shifts the Center of Gravity higher to the detriment of handling.

The window unit is not a bad compromise if it can be made to work in your locale.
The cost is of course an issue but it takes no usable space inside and can be fitted with a heat strip. Mine is a Coleman Mini-Mach 7200BTU it is shorter in height and is fitted with a faring... result no appreciable drag. Short carport could be an issue though. My shop has a 9ft door, I can't imagine building a new house without an eight foot door, but they still do. a new scamp won't fit into a seven foot door with or without A/C.
The mini mach is at least as quiet as any wall unit which we have installed.
Affecting the handling is really such a non-issue.

The drawbacks of the window units now available are build quality and the fact that they were really designed for stationary installation, also they are not rechargeable or repairable.
I would compare them to using a "Dorm Fridge" in place of an RV fridge.
They are of course economical and can serve the purpose. I have installed many of them with satisfactory results.
I still stand by my statement which you quoted.
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:14 PM   #80
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I read no mention of thermostat location. If the window unit is 10" above the floor, then so is its thermostat. I doubt any AC is going to cool well if the thermostat is not up higher in the trailer. Is it possible to control a window unit with a remote thermostat?
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Old 06-02-2015, 12:09 AM   #81
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It seems as if we're all on the same page in that the higher the a/c unit the better. Unfortunately, my trailer was not built to support a roof mount and I decided to mount it on the floor under the front bunk. I felt it was more aesthetically pleasing than the window despite the inefficiency, so here I am.

Originally, I installed a frigidaire 6000 btu unit and it was struggling to keep up in the desert heat. Frigidaire makes an 8000 btu unit that is the same dimensions. So after all of the research and back and forth, I installed it. So far, it blows a lot more air (190 cfm vs 150 cfm). The unit also blows out measurably colder (49 vs 62 at 90 ambient).

The real test will be tomorrow when it's 98 outside and full sun, fingers crossed. I'll check back in tomorrow.
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Old 06-02-2015, 06:31 AM   #82
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It seems as if we're all on the same page in that the higher the a/c unit the better. Unfortunately, my trailer was not built to support a roof mount and I decided to mount it on the floor under the front bunk. I felt it was more aesthetically pleasing than the window despite the inefficiency, so here I am.

Originally, I installed a frigidaire 6000 btu unit and it was struggling to keep up in the desert heat. Frigidaire makes an 8000 btu unit that is the same dimensions. So after all of the research and back and forth, I installed it. So far, it blows a lot more air (190 cfm vs 150 cfm). The unit also blows out measurably colder (49 vs 62 at 90 ambient).

The real test will be tomorrow when it's 98 outside and full sun, fingers crossed. I'll check back in tomorrow.
Even the big box RV people will recommend trying to park in shade to reduce the load on their AC, and gain some efficiency. The nice thing about our trailers is their small size. Many owners will tuck them under an ez-up awning as well, to reduce the sun's heat on the trailer. Might be an option if you want additional cooling.
Looking forward to your test run results!
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Old 06-02-2015, 07:23 AM   #83
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I can't say how well it works, but I am trying a mini-split heat pump with the inside unit mounted a few inches under the ceiling (the air intake is on top). Centered in the rear over the window it should distribute the air pretty good. Being a heat pump rated to 17*F it should reduce the need for back up heat from a small electric heater I plan to carry in the winter. This unit is rated 9000 BTU and had inverter power so short cycling should not be a problem. It also has dehumidifying settings so perhaps in L.A. (Lower Alabama) mold and mildew may not be as big a problem.
My thought is to each his own and if roof top works or window or mini split the let 'er rip.
As to cost I got the mini split on sale for $500 which is more than the window unit, but less than the roof top. As to weight the unit weighs less than the roof top and no roof load.
Mounting the inside unit is something I am working on, however. Since I have redone the cabinets and bonded them to the shell these will be the foundation for the air handler. A work in progress!
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Old 06-02-2015, 07:39 AM   #84
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redbarron.....I hope you post pictures. that sounds promising.
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