air conditioner - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-25-2013, 04:24 PM   #1
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air conditioner

I recently bought a 13' Scamp......it has a 5000 btu window type a/c mounted in the closet. The unit does not seem to cool the Scamp.(that's in the fl heat)

I see a 6000 btu unit is available but, do not want to buy another unit that will not cool.

I am looking for advice.
Don
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:23 PM   #2
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I would check the Freon level first.
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Old 10-25-2013, 05:37 PM   #3
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Make sure the filter in the front is clean. put a thermometer in front of the filter while running and check the temperature. now move the thermometer in front of the cold air comming out of the unit. Is there about a 15 to 18 degree drop in temperature? if there is the unit is doing all it can. If the temperature drop is right make sure the air comming out the cold side of the airconditioner is circulating the air up and away so it doesnt get sucked back right into the front of the unit. this is a big problem with air mounted close to the floor the cool air doesnt go up and drop down warm air to the floor to be sucked back into the unit. Going to a bigger unit will flow more air but it doesn't drop the temperature differential any. All the air in the trailer needs to circulate so as the air is recirculating through the airconditioner it keeps dropping a little at a time.
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Old 10-25-2013, 06:37 PM   #4
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The 5000 BTU should not have any problem cooling a 13 foot trailer.

I use a 9200 BTU cooling a 17 foot in desert heat and at most only need the unit running at half of max. setting.
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Old 10-25-2013, 10:15 PM   #5
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I have a 13' Scamp, with A/C in the side closet. Took it to Las Vegas last July. It was 118 out side. Little 5000BTU A/C cooled the Scamp down to a manageable temp in a few hours while I was in the casino. I would also make sure that the air exchange system for the A/C is set up properly. EG: Bringing cool air into the A/C unit, and exhausting the warm air. If it is the A/C unit itself, a new 5000BTU will cost about $100 at Lowes, WalMart or Home Depot.

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Old 10-26-2013, 07:30 PM   #6
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Thanks for all the info.

Today I discovered that the refrigerator might not be vented to the outside. There is no vent in the fiberglass behind the refrigerator....can't
tell if it's vented thru the floor....I am recovering from hip replacement & can not get under it to look. It's a replacement ref.

Could this be the problem?:

Don
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Old 10-26-2013, 07:55 PM   #7
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I would check the Freon level first.
The USA quit using Freon in refrigeration units in 1992...
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Old 10-26-2013, 09:41 PM   #8
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If the closet AC isn't vented to the outside, or if the venting is inadequate, it won't work efficiently to cool your trailer.

Best of luck on your hip replacement, Don.
Hope you're on the mend, and doing the happy dance real soon!
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Old 10-27-2013, 05:36 AM   #9
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The a/c is vented but, the ref is not........Don
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:08 AM   #10
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Thanks for all the info.

Today I discovered that the refrigerator might not be vented to the outside. There is no vent in the fiberglass behind the refrigerator....can't
tell if it's vented thru the floor....I am recovering from hip replacement & can not get under it to look. It's a replacement ref.

Could this be the problem?:

Don
Do you have a refrigerator or an ice box? The refrigerator draws outside air through the trailer wall and exhausts the heated air through a roof vent .
There is no refrigerator vent in the floor
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:42 AM   #11
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FIRST:
If you have an LP refrigerator, and it's not vented to the outside, contact Scamp or your local dealer for correction before someone gets killed from carbon monoxide poisoning.

In a/c's, temp differential tells almost everything. Verify that before anything else. If it's low (less than 12 degrees, that's the problem, it not, then look for something else.

Most appliances either burn in or burn out in the first year, it sounds like your a/c may one of the latter group.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:46 AM   #12
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The USA quit using Freon in refrigeration units in 1992...
---------------------------------------

No matter what the cooling medium being used, the cooling circuit in small home a/c's, as a well as rooftop RV a/c's, are usually not designed for service or recharging. Even if they were, the cost of a service call could quickly exceed replacement price.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:49 AM   #13
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Per post #11, Contact Scamp or your local RV dealer, not Casita.
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Old 10-27-2013, 09:58 AM   #14
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Now I know I fall into this grouping...most of us are confused air conditioners are not refridgeration units. If you park your caravan in the sun all day all closed up and come back and turn on the little ac unit and expect it to become "arctic" in a few minutes its not going to happen.

I lived aboard a fiberglass sailboat for 8 years and I learned about this. The air conditioner should after running for a while will pull the humidity out of the air and hopefully drop the inside temp 10-15'. Now camping in the shade, opening windows for airflow during the day with adequate ventilation will make it easier for the small ac unit to cool the trailer down. I have a small turbo fan that I plug in below the air conditioner and have it angled to blow the cold air towards my bed helped alot. Next year I need to add a 12 volt adjustable fan so it would blow down on me while I sleep would probably help as well.

One weekend in july this year when I went to bed around midnite it was 95' and so humid I ran the ac all night off my generator. It got down into the lower 80's inside but rmoved the humidity and I was comfortable enough to sleep...yes at home I like it to be like a meat locker when I sleep...just not gonna happen in the caravan.
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