Air conditioner for 13 ft. Scamp - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-25-2014, 11:31 PM   #15
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Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Miller View Post
I think what Donna stated is correct in it's context.

I have never heard of the "Rafter" modification and, unless some documentation and/or images were available, it sounds like a bit of a risk for the newbie, especially if they have to start out by cutting a big hole in the roof.

And about putting it on the tongue.... Scamps are usually a bit tongue heavy to start, adding more weight out there to a now 35 y.o. frame might not be that good an idea either. The closet install puts the weight right over the axle, where it belongs.
Well, you've heard of it now!
Never under estimate a newbie's ability to tackle a simple mod, originally suggested by the OEM.

A base Scamp's tongue weight of the era was under eighty pounds.(actually a bit too light)
The one in the picture was about 160# with a 24 battery and a full propane tank. The A/C unit weighs under 40# (less than the upper bunk which was removed.)

The "big" hole for a rooftop A/C is exactly the same 14"X14" that is required for a fantastic fan.

Each of the ideas proffered proved successful in application, and was presented in the spirit of the OP's request for viable suggestions.

Whether the particular<40# A/C "belongs" over the axle is a subjective judgment, but it certainly did well installed in the closet of the 1973 LoveBug pictured as one suggestion.
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:31 AM   #16
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Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
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I guess I fit into the mixed metaphor of being a "conservative liberal"
I think we have all have seen (at least I have anyway) the results of new RV owners tackling projects well over their heads and the disastrous results thereof.... The results show up in trailer ads that usually start out with leads like "A Blank Canvas" or "Make it your way" etc. I would hardly call installing a rooftop a/c a beginners task.

I will always underestimate an owners ability until discussions prove otherwise.

More than once I have posted "If you have to ask that question, maybe you shouldn't be doing that job".

I'm just not a fan of adding weight up forward and "over the axle" seems to be the long held credo when adding weight to almost any kind of trailer. When installing a group 27 battery in my Compact-II, I put it inside, as close to the axle as possible, a bit inconvenient, but the "right" place for the extra weight.

Maybe someone will chime in with more info about the "Rafters". A similar solution was used in the 1987 and later molded fiberglass Sunrader mini-motorhomes, but in that case they used stamped steel beams, that anchored to the side walls, below the curve, to reinforce the roof.
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Old 06-26-2014, 06:30 PM   #17
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Beautiful Bob!
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Old 06-26-2014, 08:52 PM   #18
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look here for another simple idea for A/C...
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...tml#post464901
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Old 06-26-2014, 09:30 PM   #19
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Name: Tonnie
Trailer: Scamp
Florida
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Well, after looking at ac's, fridges, and microwaves online, and measuring, remeasuring (In case something had grown, I guess!), I'm thinking I need to put a small fridge where the icebox was originally, the microwave in the closet, and the ac at the front. Since I'm removing very heavy bunk beds added by the PO, I believe it will be actually fairly comparable in weight. I'm hoping by putting the microwave and additional storage in the closet, it will help balance the weight of the fridge on the other side. The gas burners were removed before I purchased it. So, there isn't any weight from that. I would like to cover the opening with some ceramic tile. Would that be too heavy?

Is this the right idea... to try to balance the weight side to side?

Also, the PO raised the height of the egg. The hitch on the back of the car is put in upside down with the ball then replaced on the top. It pulls really nicely.

The interior fiberglass units have yellowed. Is there something I can use to whiten them back up?

Also, I want to remove the carpet and replace it with vinyl tiles. Is there a secret way to do that, or is it the same as removing carpet anywhere?

I cannot express how much I appreciate all the input. This site is a Godsend!

We've looked for this egg for several years and now that I have it, I don't want to mess it up with pure ignorance. We plan to use it for the rest of our lives.

Thanks!
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Old 06-26-2014, 10:12 PM   #20
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I'm guessing that there is no longer any propane in the Scamp?
Before you go all electric, keep in mind that it's not always possible to find a campsite with power hook-ups. In fact, as it's sometimes difficult to find any sites, you may sometime in the future want/have to overnight in places as unthought of as a Casino, Camping World, Cracker Barrel or even a WalMart Parking lot. Sooo, I am suggesting thinking about getting a cooktop back and, if necessary, reinstalling the propane system.

When I have redone floors on Scamps I have first removed the seat units, they usually unscrew from the floor inside the seats, then removed or cut back as much of the old carpet as possible before laying down new floor, usually laminate.

Tip#1.... Take your time...
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Old 06-27-2014, 10:36 AM   #21
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I'm with Bob on if you have propane the modest cost of a cooktop can make a big difference. You can sleep anyplace but the stove means morning coffee and breakfast there or even in the pouring rain if you are like myself and cook mostly outside.

I think it is good to balance the weight distribution of major appliances, batteries, water tanks and things like that but would not obsess too much over the little items like some ceramic tile. I might suggest replace the stove then use a wood cover for the stove with tile on it rather than just covering the hole. Or some stoves offer a stainless steel cover.

You might want to look at allure vinyl flooring. Comes in strips that overlap and stick to each other not sticking to the wood flooring underneath the way vinyl tiles do. It floats, held in place by the edges being against walls or cabinets. Looks like wood plank flooring in assorted shades.

You might also try barkeepers friend, comes in a can like powdered cleansers. Is very mild abrasive with a mild bleaching agent. Little moisture, sprinkle powder on rag and rub using big strokes.

Follow with any marine/fiberglass "restore" polish. I think I used Starbrite purchased from auto supply store. Same product Scamp sells in their online store. These two should help with the yellowing.

Some of your projects such as AC or microwave are worth a fair amount of consideration and planning before implementation. Especially if this is a first attempt at this sort of camper remodeling. +1 on take your time.

Take it one step at a time so you don't spend the whole summer with a project camper torn apart instead of going camping in it. Three short trips using an ice box beats having a fridge in a camper that is not ready to go anyplace.
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:14 PM   #22
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I respectfully disagree with reinstalling the propane stovetop. I have not yet snatched mine out but itsí days are certainly numbered as the 3 way fridge and furnace are already gone and the water heater is getting concerned about itsí fate. My dos centavos is to get a nice Coleman or equivalent propane cooktop and the conversion for using 20 pound bottles and that way you can cook outside off the big bottle and if you just have to move it inside you can (carefully) cook with a small disposable bottle of gas. Best of both worlds.
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Old 06-27-2014, 12:23 PM   #23
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I also disagree with the "need" for propane inside a small camper - my stove doesn't work and as soon as I drill the rivets out, it's going to be gone, with no immediate plans to replace the cooktop with anything other than a cutting board to cover the hole that will be left behind... I don't think I will miss it.

The previous owners of my scamp didn't use the cooktop, they just cooked outside, which is what I plan to do as well, since it's what I am most familiar with coming from tent camping. An adapter and supply hose is easily acquired should I ever opt to mount a 20lb tank on my tongue, but I know exactly how long a 1lb disposable bottle lasts us and they are easy to keep on hand, so it's far from a deal-breaker to use those.
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Old 06-27-2014, 01:50 PM   #24
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There is certainly room for disagreement. Some FGRV manufacturers only offer propane as an "extra" with the regular models built as all electric.

If you cover the hole with a cutting board, or build a cover for the stove top it is a good idea to put some little felt pads on the bottom where the wood will rub the counter surface.

I cook outside on a Coleman stove or a fire nearly 100% of the time but having the stove available provides an option. If resale is a factor that might also influence a decision. I want to make a cutting board cover for my stove top. I know I will use it as counter space a lot more than as a stove.

I like propane fridge for longer stays out in the boondocks but have done them with ice too so not sure what I would do if I was facing replacement cost of a 3 way fridge. Lots of options to consider.
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Old 06-27-2014, 04:40 PM   #25
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Wow! Thank you to all of you... I much prefer learning from others rather
than screwing something up.

I'll definitely look into the products you have mentioned.

We have a propane camp stove that we can bring. I don't like gas inside, mostly because it scares me. The point about being able to dry dock is a very good one.

However, if we happen to be dry docking at a Cracker Barrel, we will absolutely have to go inside for some wonderful food and retail therapy!
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:45 PM   #26
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How does one send a private message?


Sent from my iPad using Fiberglass RV
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Old 06-29-2014, 05:54 PM   #27
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Click on their username on the left and a menu will pop up. Sending a private message (PM) is the second option, just click that and it will take you to a page where you can write your message.
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Old 07-13-2014, 08:13 AM   #28
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Bob Miller, THAT is one gorgeous little trailer! I love the neatness of it all! Taking pointers.
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