Air Conditioning Problem - Question?

[JimKE]

Hoping to find a possible solution here to my problem Searching the internet doesn't really address my issue, so maybe someone here can.

Purchased a 2008 Bigfoot. The owner removed the air conditioner after 3 years, installing a fantastic fan in its place. I re-installed the air conditioner. It's a Dometic Duo Therm Penguin, 11000 btu. Here's the problem: the fan runs but the compressor does not kick on. No sound, no clicking, no hum, nothing. I visually inspected the capacitors for signs of failure but did not see anything evident. Running off a 20 amp circuit. Checked voltage at the breaker and was fine.
My guess is that the start up capacitor has failed?
Can any one share some experiences with this?
Thank you!

[Kevin A]

I know we always use a 30 amp circuit at the campground. Could it be that the power is not high enough to kick in the compressor? I know our 2000W generator won't kick it in.

Was the AC new or used? (Was it the original one that came with the trailer and taken off for the vent?)

[Darwin Maring]

The compressor may have its own thermostat that cycles it and the fan just stays on.

[JimKE]

Thanks for the replies!
Unit was the original with the trailer, removed by owner, then I re-installed.
The compressor never comes on to cycle through. So, I am going to check the current at the compressor and see what I have coming in. If I have current, then I am betting it's a bad compressor. If that's the case, then looks like a new air conditioner may be required.

[Darwin Maring]

Jim, Did you bench test it B 4 you installed it?

We run ours off of the 15 or 20 amp campground supplies using a 12 Gauge extension cord. Have done it for years with different campers and have no problem. The only problem is that we can either use the AC or the Microwave but not at the same time. Still have enough power to run the Television and interior lights.

[Carl Pa]

My AC did the same, had it checked out at the RV shop. They said it was a bad connecter and they installed a heavier one that would not work loose as easy. Been working fine ever since. Good Luck ,, Carl

[Steve Outlaw]

We had that same A/C as a 13,000 BTU model in our first Oliver. It took exactly 140 seconds for the compressor to kick in each time it was initially turned on. Are you waiting that long? Other than that, my guess (like yours) is that the start up capacitor has failed.

[JimKE]

Unfortunately I did not bench test, idiot that I am! Mad at myself for not doing so!

Carl, what do you mean specifically by a "bad connector" ? Are you speaking of the connection to the control panel?

Regarding waiting long enough for the compressor to kick on, I ran it 10 minutes, shut it off, started again...still no sign of it working.

Thanks for the input everyone!

[ken jon]

When you turn the thermostat from hot to cold do you hear anything, you should hear the switch click at least. If the switch is working. It is like a fancy light switch it turns the compressor on and off, if you are handy at all you can bypass the switch to see if the compressor will spark up
Hope this helps

[dblcola]

Originally Posted by JimKE

Hoping to find a possible solution here to my problem Searching the internet doesn't really address my issue, so maybe someone here can.

Purchased a 2008 Bigfoot. The owner removed the air conditioner after 3 years, installing a fantastic fan in its place. I re-installed the air conditioner. It's a Dometic Duo Therm Penguin, 11000 btu. Here's the problem: the fan runs but the compressor does not kick on. No sound, no clicking, no hum, nothing. I visually inspected the capacitors for signs of failure but did not see anything evident. Running off a 20 amp circuit. Checked voltage at the breaker and was fine.
My guess is that the start up capacitor has failed?
Can any one share some experiences with this?
Thank you!

I'd bet your right it's the startup capacitor.

[Darral T.]

Perhaps you could call the owner and ask him WHY he removed the A/C??? This could save you alot of troubleshooting-- coulda saved you from reinstalling it possibly. But, at least you may know how to continue. IF the compressor is locked, I would say junk it and start over....and in my opinion skip it, reinstall the F. fan and go a window unit! I know you're aggravated at yourself for not testing it first...that's why I said contact the owner...otherwise, I'd probably done the same thing! Good luck and let us know!

Originally Posted by JimKE

Hoping to find a possible solution here to my problem Searching the internet doesn't really address my issue, so maybe someone here can.

Purchased a 2008 Bigfoot. The owner removed the air conditioner after 3 years, installing a fantastic fan in its place. I re-installed the air conditioner. It's a Dometic Duo Therm Penguin, 11000 btu. Here's the problem: the fan runs but the compressor does not kick on. No sound, no clicking, no hum, nothing. I visually inspected the capacitors for signs of failure but did not see anything evident. Running off a 20 amp circuit. Checked voltage at the breaker and was fine.
My guess is that the start up capacitor has failed?
Can any one share some experiences with this?
Thank you!

[Chris Z]

I would make sure you have 120v on the compressor. I have 2008 21' with schematic if you need. Message me if you need it. I run mine on 20a circuit fine. I'm not sure we have the same, I will have to go look.

[gordon2]

Air conditioners are air conditioners.. whether they are on the roof of an RV or not, so perhaps you might get some help over at HVAC-Talk: Heating, Air & Refrigeration Discussion

Specifically, the sub-forum: http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/forumdispla...sidential-HVAC

There are a lot of people in the HVAC field there who can be a big help.

[JimKE]

Thanks for all the responses!
I thought I had found the problem being a bad start capacitor. I pulled the capacitor and there was quite a bit of leakage around the top inside ring. No swelling, just leakage. Took it to a motor repair shop where they checked it out and to my surprise---IT WAS GOOD! The repair shop gave me a new capacitor to try out (checking that one out as well) and it did not make any difference in helping kick start the compressor. Then they asked me to bring in the run capacitor, which I will do in the morning, and they would check that as well.

Didn't charge me a thing, nice guys they are!

In addition, I pulled the wire connections off the terminals on the compressor, scratched the top of the compressor until bare metal shown, and checked the continuity grounding (a youtube test). All 3 terminals read 0 on my multi-meter. I also checked the continuity between each of the terminals and they too read 0 Now that should indicate a problem right, in that I am not getting any kind of reading to determine if the windings are good? There are no ohms indicated at each terminal to total up to determine if they equal the highest reading of the 3. Nothing registers. Bad compressor?

Thanks all!
P.S. Any additional input is always welcome!

[redbarron55]

My question might be is power going to the compressor from the contactor?
Trace the wires back from the compressor to where the contactor is located.
If you are getting power to the compressor you should hear it at least humming and it would do so until the overload kicks out.
You could have a bad overload or thermal cutout.
My guess is that you are not getting power to the compressor windings. That would be the place to start.
Many compressors have a three pronged plug that attaches to I think for power and I have seen some with one prong burned off.
Trace the power circuit and check everything from where it comes iny ok the unit and the compressor.
By the way none of the power leads should read 0 to ground with all of the wires removed.
That would indicate a winding shorted to ground.
The windings will read very low resistance to each other, however.


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[Chris Z]

As far as the readings directly across the terminals on the compressor: if you have 3 terminals, I suspect that there is a common, one to main windings and one to start winding. Just a guess. If you move your continuity meter around and find the common, you should get resistance on the other 2. Wondering if there is a thermostat on the compressor that has opened and remains open.


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[Darral T.]

Just curious...but have you Googled or gone to YT to check for "Troubleshooting" tips on those compressors? I downloaded an "Installer" manual for my Coleman Polar Cub 9200 and it gives excellent methods of testing/troubleshooting the entire unit. I would do this instead of dangerous "hunting and pecking"; not even sure if what you're doing is a true test.

Maybe there's a bonafide HVAC guy on here, but otherwise, you're going to get alot of "opinions".

Just my $.02 worth.

Originally Posted by Chris Z

As far as the readings directly across the terminals on the compressor: if you have 3 terminals, I suspect that there is a common, one to main windings and one to start winding. Just a guess. If you move your continuity meter around and find the common, you should get resistance on the other 2. Wondering if there is a thermostat on the compressor that has opened and remains open.


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