Allure flooring? How did you finish the edges? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-01-2010, 08:15 PM   #1
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We recently put down Allure flooring in our Trillium, but we're having trouble finding an appropriate material to finish the edges. Just wondering what everyone else used.

Ours isn't a woodgrained pattern. We went with a black one (can't find a picture).



~ Liz
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Old 05-01-2010, 08:41 PM   #2
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I used quarter round stained to match the wood of the cabinets and walls. You could paint wooden quarter round black.
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Old 05-01-2010, 10:36 PM   #3
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Quote:
We recently put down Allure flooring in our Trillium, but we're having trouble finding an appropriate material to finish the edges. Just wondering what everyone else used.

Ours isn't a woodgrained pattern. We went with a black one (can't find a picture).



~ Liz
I used the Bamboo Allure and did the same as Tim; used quarter round, found the closest color stain then varnished also.
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:17 AM   #4
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Working on the Boler,am using vinyl quarter mold found at Home Depot.Cuts easily,and,bonus,a little heat from your heat gun,and you could then bend it as well!
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:41 AM   #5
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I used almond colored caulking and ran a nice smoothe bead arond the edge....I'm hoping it seals it from letting water under right there if it gets on the floor....kinda easy...looks nice...........BTW I have most of the second box of that allure left seeinds how i only needed 3 sheets from it if anyones in the same situation and is using the oak pattern.......Bruce
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Old 05-02-2010, 01:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
We recently put down Allure flooring in our Trillium, but we're having trouble finding an appropriate material to finish the edges. Just wondering what everyone else used.

Ours isn't a woodgrained pattern. We went with a black one (can't find a picture).

~ Liz
I haven't done mine yet, but I'll be using wooden screen molding. (Photo below). It's 1/4" thick x 3/4" high. I'll take off one of the rounded edges with the table saw or jointer, which should leave it at about 1/4" x 5/8" or so. It's inexpensive, and I like its thinner and flatter profile better than quarter round.

Don

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Old 05-02-2010, 04:00 PM   #7
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Thanks everyone.

I'm shying away from regular 1/4 round due to a couple of curves, but I like the idea of vinyl, assuming that it can be painted. I've never seen it, so I guess I'll have to ask at Home Depot.

~ Liz

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Old 05-02-2010, 10:15 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone.

I'm shying away from regular 1/4 round due to a couple of curves, but I like the idea of vinyl, assuming that it can be painted. I've never seen it, so I guess I'll have to ask at Home Depot.

~ Liz
Is the curve gradual, or sharp? i.e, bent or mitered? I held laminate down with quarter-round spot-glued to the 'wall' and clamped temporarily with sticks wedged in to hold it while the PL400 dots grab and set (usually about 24 hours). The nice thing about PL adhesive is that if you dont glue the entire piece you can pop it off later if need be.

With laminate it is strongly recommended to put down an isolation membrane that forgives a bit of moisture collecting under the flooring. Otherwise it's a matter of time before it wicks up something and begins to warp and swell.
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Old 05-03-2010, 08:16 AM   #9
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Mike - the curve I'm most concerned with is the one the counter. There's a ridge between the cupboard & the icebox.

This is one of our other member's floor. In this pic, they haven't finished the edges yet.

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...st&id=18100


We're going to try to find the vinyl 1/4 round. Hope our Home Depot carries it.



~ Liz


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Old 05-03-2010, 12:07 PM   #10
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Mike - the curve I'm most concerned with is the one the counter. There's a ridge between the cupboard & the icebox.
If you have a belt sander you could sand a notch in some hemlock 11/16 Q-round to fit over the bump. Or, you coud carefully whittle it.

One of the things about retrofit is solving little puzzles like this one. When I redid my Boler front bench area, cutting the curvature so as to make a tight fit structurally, kept me awake at night! But eventually the solution came clear.

I'm not sure that vinyl will help in this case, IMHO
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:39 PM   #11
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Just reading on this link.. I have the "steelplate" look of trafficmaster in my Boler.. I have painted all the woodwork a light butter colour and the floor is a rust colour... the rest of the upholstery is navy in colour like denim, so I put down 2-1/2" rubber cove base in navy and it has made it all pop quite nicely. It is a great product for keeping the floor clean... before I installed the cove I sealed all edges with a clear silicone product to help keep the dirt out.
Very low maintenance and cuts easily around any shapes or curves.
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:00 PM   #12
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Isn't this type of floor a "floating floor"? If so, you shouldn't nail or glue the edge finishing trim to the actual floor as it will not be able to move (float) as the humidity changes. The actual floor should be a 1/4 inch from the wall and the trim attached to the wall, not the floor if it is indeed a floating floor. Just my thoughts--Ron
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:18 PM   #13
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In the floor well of a Boler or Scamp the area is so small that the 1/4" rule doesnt apply like it does on large floor areas. I cut everything 1/8" shorter than the available clearance, with no troubles.

By spot-gluing the quarter-round, it allows me the luxury of easy removal should something untoward happen to the floor. The close clearances mean that the floor will also be less likely to shift and slide when in transit.
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