Aluminum Frame - Anyone have one? - Page 3 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 01-23-2011, 10:53 PM   #29
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Here it is!...
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:51 AM   #30
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kgingeri Looks great!
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Old 01-24-2011, 09:56 AM   #31
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Quote: "I have a smaller tow vehicle, so I'm trying to cut every pound I can"
What do you pull with?
The 1300 is listed in owners manual at 1232 to 1312 lbs with water and propane tank full? and a tongue weight requirement of 134 lbs? This is without cargo (food bedding etc.) Really like the idea of cutting weight though. Will lower driving fuel costs. The Government puts a Class I hitch at 2000 lbs draw and 200 lbs tongue.
Like trailer brakes and a sway bar is a great safety feature. Pictures are of draw bar adapter plate installed, on our old setup used with a smaller trailer
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Old 01-24-2011, 10:56 AM   #32
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Name: Karl in Elmira ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borden View Post
Quote: "I have a smaller tow vehicle, so I'm trying to cut every pound I can"
What do you pull with?
The 1300 is listed in owners manual at 1232 to 1312 lbs with water and propane tank full? and a tongue weight requirement of 134 lbs? This is without cargo (food bedding etc.) Really like the idea of cutting weight though. Will lower driving fuel costs. The Government puts a Class I hitch at 2000 lbs draw and 200 lbs tongue.
Like trailer brakes and a sway bar is a great safety feature. Pictures are of draw bar adapter plate installed, on our old setup used with a smaller trailer
@Borden: Thanks for the pics - I have a Suzuki SX4 2 Litre Engine Auto tranny. The US/CDN manual says not to pull a trailer at all! The EURO specs give the normal 1000 lbs. It has electronic anti-skid controls (cuts throttle, applies one wheel brake etc) and I think likely that's one reason they don't recommend towing - I can turn it off, and usually do when towing (when I remember to).

I've pulled about 700 lbs (custom teardrop I built) about 4000 miles (most of that was one trip to South Georgia) without any issues at all. Virginia mountains and all. No tranny cooler (but will have this spring). The teardrop is low profile, and is barely visible behind my SX4. The 1300 will definitely take wind - I've felt that already just pulling it home.

My renos are gonna 'bare-bones' the Boler. No water tanks of any kind, no gas (we use a small ceramic heater, and portable LP burner when needed), very light built cabinetry (also a challenge, as FG isn't heavy for it's strength). I will have a small 110AC fridge and microwave in it.

Overall, my hope is to be just under 1000lbs dry when done

PS: My custom teardrop build -> Custom Teardrop Pictures on Facebook this little baby ended up at 440 lbs dry (without the later add-a-room packed inside) - about 700 all loaded.
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:36 AM   #33
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Hi Karl
We pulled a 1000 lbs with the Toyota Echo and it also was not rated on this side of the pond to pull anything. Worked well in fact.
Mr Transmission has a great progressive cooler. The sway bar has a filler washer on the ball to make the sway plate work also the under plate was cut in middle and welded to the upper plate but still held in place by the ball to the draw bar.
Other vehicles have two ratings one with out brakes and cooler and a larger one with them.
Do admit though Trailer bakes would have been great to have.
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Old 01-24-2011, 11:49 AM   #34
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@Borden: Yeah, you have to use your head and a lot of common sense when pulling with a smaller tow vehicle.

We did have an accident, several years back, when pulling a utility trailer with gear (Saturn Ion and maybe 500lbs of trailer?) - I had left lots of room (I thought) between me and the next vehicle, but ended up rear-ending a pickup - in a line of sudden stop traffic! I couldn't believe how that small trailer made me slide. I actually wore a flat spot on the tires of the car!! It was like I was on ice - but it was middle of summer. Experience is such a good teacher!! It wasn't a serious accident but could have been.
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Old 01-24-2011, 12:01 PM   #35
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You in fact have a larger engine than we have in the new Corolla and it also has an automatic transaxle.
It has a dealer rating of 1500 / 200 lb rating this side of the pond without the cooler, trailer brakes, class III hitch, sway bar and weight distribution system.
Ours did come new from the dealer with hitch and trailer brake wiring and proportional braking system pre installed.
You look to have added surge brake system? Check out http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ if needed.

The RV dealers and Car dealer say it is as much about the air a boler pushes. "Now it is Air that rules." Told this is the case because the trailer is less than 4000 lbs. With research we purchased a car around the best mileage that could do the job of pulling the 1700 boler. It came from dealer with tow package and we have upgraded that a little. Adding WD system and sway bar. Our car is lower to ground, longer wheel base I think and ordered fully loaded with all safety systems available.

Sounds like you have planned well.
Have to run
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Old 01-24-2011, 01:39 PM   #36
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Actually Borden, yes I added surge brakes. Less fuss then electrical after market and if I change vehicles there is no hassle pulling it either.

Thanks for the references but I've read somewhere (can't remember) and it makes sense, that with surge brakes you cannot use equalizer (maybe not anti-sway) setups as it can interfere with the surge braking action. I do hope my tongue weight is less then 70lbs, so I should be ok. The down side of surge is winter or slippery (wet) conditions, so care has to be taken there. We won't be doing winter driving with the Boler.

Karl
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Old 01-24-2011, 06:57 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kgingeri View Post
Actually Borden, yes I added surge brakes. Less fuss then electrical after market and if I change vehicles there is no hassle pulling it either.

Thanks for the references but I've read somewhere (can't remember) and it makes sense, that with surge brakes you cannot use equalizer (maybe not anti-sway) setups as it can interfere with the surge braking action. I do hope my tongue weight is less then 70lbs, so I should be ok. The down side of surge is winter or slippery (wet) conditions, so care has to be taken there. We won't be doing winter driving with the Boler.

Karl
I feel that electric brakes are a nice safety feature (versus surge brakes) in that, if any sway problem occurred, one can usually correct it by applying trailer brakes while maintaining tow vehicle speed. Surge brakes cannot do that. Also electric brakes allow one to adjust the trailer braking force (for different road surface conditions: gravel, slippery, etc.) with a dial.
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Old 01-24-2011, 08:34 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Magee View Post
I feel that electric brakes are a nice safety feature (versus surge brakes) in that, if any sway problem occurred, one can usually correct it by applying trailer brakes while maintaining tow vehicle speed. Surge brakes cannot do that. Also electric brakes allow one to adjust the trailer braking force (for different road surface conditions: gravel, slippery, etc.) with a dial.
Yes Mike, very true indeed. I think too electrics are a better system - no argument here!

If you load right you really shouldn't have swaying problems - baring sudden wind or trying to avoid something suddenly. I've never had that issue yet - hope I never will. I'm hoping that the sensitivity is right on the surge brakes - it is a pain to adjust them. About the only option is to adjust the load spring on the master cylinder and then try them and repeat as needed. Electrics can be adjusted as you drive (with the right controller) so varied loads, road conditions etc can be safer.

However, all that said, this trailer came with NO brakes so for an extra $200, to have at least surge brakes is better then none! I believe they tend to be less fuss and maintenance then electrics too. I won't be changing any driving habits either. I'll drive as if I don't have them.

Karl
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Old 01-25-2011, 06:41 AM   #39
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Gave link but your rig is so light it is not really needed but check out http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ . They make a 400/4000 unit and they are the only brand that works with surge brakes and doubles as a sway system at same time. This is better than WD I use with a separate sway bar making it also lighter.
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Old 01-25-2011, 07:03 AM   #40
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I wish to add shocks to my trailer. The dampening may solve some of the stress problems mentioned with alum frames, Donna D sent this link http://www.casitaforum.com/invboard/...topic=2275&hl= in forum on adding shocks. I requires joining the casitaform group to see but worth it as it works on non leaf suspension.
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Old 01-25-2011, 08:22 AM   #41
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Name: Karl in Elmira ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Borden
Gave link but your rig is so light it is not really needed but check out http://www.equalizerhitch.com/ . They make a 400/4000 unit and they are the only brand that works with surge brakes and doubles as a sway system at same time. This is better than WD I use with a separate sway bar making it also lighter.
Sorry Borden - I missed that it works with surge brakes! I'll definitely check it out again. I had looked at the link the first time you gave it, but didn't go far on their site as I figured right away that it wouldn't.
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Old 01-25-2011, 09:11 AM   #42
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Your trailer is so light Tongue weight is not really a problem for you; as it should be 10% to 15% of trailer weight.
The 400/4000 unit is 63 lbs total with springs but will add sway control to your rig. Not sure about hitches available for your vehicle though and it has a 2" draw bar; maybe custom hitch.
This maybe safety over kill. Not to mention the cost.
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