Any reason I can't just buy small elec. fridge and put in Compact - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-02-2009, 03:23 PM   #15
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Rick, how is that awning pictured attached to trailer?
Here is the link to where I posted it on the forum
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=36386
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Old 08-03-2009, 02:01 AM   #16
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Name: Dana
Trailer: 1973 Compact Jr
California
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This is fantastic ideas. We have been debating what to do about the fridge in our boler. It is super old rusty and the wires are all frayed. A replacement is WAY too expensive.

One question I do have is can these mini-fridges run on battery power too or do they suck up too much power? A lot of the campgrounds we like going to do not have hookups.

Cheers

Ursula

P.S. Thanks for the post Pat, we were thinking the same way
Buying a new propane/electric fridge is quite pricey, but I knew I wanted one because where we're going AC won't often be available. So I've been haunting craigslist for nearly two months and today picked up a fridge for $200 -- not much more than an AC-only dorm fridge.

Running a dorm fridge from a battery isn't attractive to me because it would require an inverter to convert the DC to AC, several large and expensive deep-cycle batteries and frequent recharging, or a generator. In contrast, a 5 gal propane tank will run the fridge and cooktop for weeks with far less noise, exhaust, and expense. Oh yeah, it's a lot lighter too!

The biggest problem I had was finding a fridge small enough -- the Compact Jr is only 6 feet wide and I didn't want the fridge to stick out into the aisleway very much. If you have a wider trailer suitable fridges show up much more often.

The propane/electric fridges are deeper (front to back) than dorm fridges, and for that reason I will be mounting it where the icebox used to be, halfway between the floor and ceiling on the curb side of the trailer. That's where the trailer is the widest and that position allows me to tuck the fridge back another 1 1/2". In our narrow trailer that 1 1/2" difference is quite important!
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Old 08-03-2009, 06:39 AM   #17
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Thank you all for your suggestions, support, input. The various posts showed me that I'm not quite ready to cut off ability to camp without electricity. Soooooh, after looking at 100's of compact refrigerators of all types, also realized I don't want to spend enormous sum of money on propone fridge plus the money for having it installed with gas line and vent.

I've bought a 70-quart Coleman xtreme cooler and its place will be at back of car with easy access through hatchback. (I have a PT Cruiser.) Will continue to freeze the blocks of ice for it and trailer ice box. For this summer, I'll try this - if still not a solution will try again re fridge.

Thanks again for all your help - again the forum came through!

Pat

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Old 08-03-2009, 06:11 PM   #18
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Thank you all for your suggestions, support, input. The various posts showed me that I'm not quite ready to cut off ability to camp without electricity. Soooooh, after looking at 100's of compact refrigerators of all types, also realized I don't want to spend enormous sum of money on propone fridge plus the money for having it installed with gas line and vent.

I've bought a 70-quart Coleman xtreme cooler and its place will be at back of car with easy access through hatchback. (I have a PT Cruiser.) Will continue to freeze the blocks of ice for it and trailer ice box. For this summer, I'll try this - if still not a solution will try again re fridge.

Thanks again for all your help - again the forum came through!

Pat
Another PT TV and I thought I was the only one

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Old 10-29-2017, 02:11 PM   #19
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Name: Maxine
Trailer: Trillium 1300
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Securing

Hi Rick,

How did you secure the compact fridge so that it stays in place?

Thanks,

Maxine

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Brown View Post
Pat
I put a dorm frig in our Jr and it works fine. I did rewire the trailer for 120 volts. The hardest thing was making sure it was level when building the platform it sets on.

Attachment 22279

Part of the platform is sitting on the wheel well. I use a bungy cord to hold the door close
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Old 10-29-2017, 04:16 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by maxypantsinyk View Post
Hi Rick,

How did you secure the compact fridge so that it stays in place?

Thanks,

Maxine
Maybe Rick will see your post, maybe not. He hasn't been on FiberglassRV for a while: Last Activity: 05-06-2014 12:57 PM

Maybe someone else can answer you though?
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:04 PM   #21
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I had to build a wood platform in our Uhaul for the dorm fridge to sit on. Then attached some metal "L" shaped standard hardware brackets to the bottom of the fridge and bolted them to the platform. Kind of figure it out, see what will fit, as you go, type of thing.
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Old 10-29-2017, 06:10 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by maxypantsinyk View Post
Hi Rick,

How did you secure the compact fridge so that it stays in place?

Thanks,

Maxine
We have a dorm fridge in our Campster. It's not really secured but sets on a shelf with a ridge I front. The prior owner that installed it has put in some foot things but they no longer effective. I need to pull it out this winter to check the 12v wiring behind it (I'm looking for a short) and may add a board with holes for the feet to keep it more stable.

I added a fridge baby lock to the door to keep it closed on the road. There is also a bungee across the front while traveling.
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Old 10-29-2017, 09:15 PM   #23
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This one worked very well. it was around $80 at Walmart, and it works on 12V.

I hard wired it to the trailer 12V and installed a vent panel above it as shown.
Also notice the on/off switch on the panel for when you want it off (likein storage.
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May 2009 017.jpg   May 2009 008.jpg  

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Old 10-29-2017, 09:23 PM   #24
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Here is a dorm fridge resistance (no compressor) which I installed in this project ... It is 110V only. Also Walmart VERY fast cool down! lots of room. also needs venting around it as it produces heat at the back.
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DSCF0053.JPG   DSCF0047.JPG  

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Old 10-30-2017, 01:03 AM   #25
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Name: K C
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If the side of the refrigerator is protruding a little ways from the face frame of the cabinet you could use removal pin cabinet door hinges on both vertical sides of the fridge to secure it in place. This is an easy to find item at your local hardware store. One half of the hinge mounts to the outside of the cabinet face frame, the other half to the fridge body forming an L shape. You might want to do two on each side depending on how tall the fridge is. For your convenience you could replace the standard pin with a steel rod you have bent into an L.

Taking the pin out will release it from the cabinet face.

On the fridge body panel side I myself would use both VHB tape under the hinge as well as some short sheet metal screws.
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Old 10-30-2017, 01:10 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Greg A View Post
Really only downside to the dorm fridge vs the RV 3-way is the inability to boondock and run your fridge on propane. After 3 years of Scamping we know our camping involves many occasions where we need the fridge on propane so the dorm fridge doesn't work for us.

If you know you'll always have juice and never dry camp or would be happy with carrying a cooler when you dry camp then you can put in a dorm fridge for a good bit less $$$
That would be my only concern. I think it's been about 4 years since I spend 2 or 3 nights with electric hookups. Before that it was close the same amount of time. FYI We camp in excess of 100 nights per year so the propane fridge works for us.
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Old 11-01-2017, 06:25 AM   #27
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I used a dorm fridge for years and it was great.

Some shed heat through coils, or a grid, on the back. Many don't have that and shed heat through the walls on the sides of the fridge, which happens to be less efficient but doesn't matter unless you are working off of batteries and want to conserve electrons.

If you're going to cut holes out of the shell you might as well install the vents that are for a propane fridge so that part is ready for a 2 way if later that makes sense.

Or, instead, people leave gaps around the sides and top of the opening they slide it into to allow air to flow around it.

If you want to run it off batteries, you can, but you will need a substantial size pure sine wave inverter (the more expensive kind), and a substantial battery bank. If you go that route there is a fair amount of learning involved and a financial commitment that will have you more than half way to a 2 way fridge. My first battery set-up used a 2000 watt pure sine wave inverter with 4 golf cart batteries (430 amp hours) and it was good for a 3 day weekend boondocking.

Before that set-up we'd just plug in easy and cheap. For the odd trip that didn't offer electric we'd pack a cooler like the tent days.
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