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10-06-2009, 12:56 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 546
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I've noticed a few people, when restoring their frame; have gone to a 2" receiver. What are some reasons that you would want to do this? I'm bringing my frame into a welder for a new axle and other fixes and considering this. My original 1 7/8" receiver is badly rusted but still working. The locking mechanism has a real problem loosing up to go over the ball, and the spring needs replacing. I may be able to take it apart and fix it, but I'm trying to get all the information I can on a 2" first.
__________________
Dan H
Oregon
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10-06-2009, 05:28 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 728
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My Scamp 16 came with a 2 inch hitch. I changed the coupler on my 1/2 ton utility trailer to a 2 inch one so I don't have to change hitch balls every time I want to use the 'other' trailer.
If you are rebuilding your frame, I'd go with the stronger 2 inch coupler for the added margin of safety.
-- Dan Meyer
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10-07-2009, 10:47 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1972 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 27
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Quote:
I've noticed a few people, when restoring their frame; have gone to a 2" receiver. What are some reasons that you would want to do this? I'm bringing my frame into a welder for a new axle and other fixes and considering this. My original 1 7/8" receiver is badly rusted but still working. The locking mechanism has a real problem loosing up to go over the ball, and the spring needs replacing. I may be able to take it apart and fix it, but I'm trying to get all the information I can on a 2" first.
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Hey Danny
I changed my coupler from 1 7/8" to 2" for the extra security as well (new one also had the tounge lock hole which the old one did not), I think it was bent as well. And being a 1972 Trillium I figured it would have some wear as well after 37 years. As well my Boat and ATV trailers have 2" couplers (this allowed me to avoid changing up and down from 2" to 1 7/8" ball). I figured while I was bringing it to the welders anyway I'd have them beef up the tounge with an added crossmember, new lift (old one was tierd and bent handle, foot only/new one has wheel and foot option), safety chains (and houlder rings), Plug holder/protector (love it), coupler lock and fish plates added to strenghten the frame. Here's a before and after pic for ya.
Cheers Jeff
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10-07-2009, 11:10 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1975 13 ft Trillium
Posts: 2,535
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Danny, I also changed from a 1 7/8" to a 2" ball AND coupler. Our old 1 7/8" coupler had let me down for the last time, and we decided that if it needed fixin', its probably goin to be better/safer to upgrade. I feel its always best to air on the side of safety instead of tryin to save MONEY, LOL!!!
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10-07-2009, 11:50 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1976 Scamp 13 ft
Posts: 546
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Thanks for the replies, it looks like I'm going to do it. Jeff, I can't quit make out what your plug/holder protector looks like. What make is it and where did you get it?
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Dan H
Oregon
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10-07-2009, 12:07 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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I highly recommend if you are going to change out the coupler that you consider going with a Bulldog 2".
The change in towing performance and positive attachment is very noticeable since I had this switched 1.5 years ago.
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10-07-2009, 12:26 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Escape 17 ft
Posts: 418
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I'd second the recommendation for the Bulldog if you are going to replace your coupler.
The price difference when I replaced ours was ~$40.
__________________
Paul & Norma
2005 Hunter Fat Shadow, 1995 Scamp 16, 2009 Escape 17B, 2013 Escape 21
2022 Coachmen Nova 20C
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10-07-2009, 12:39 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1972 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Thanks for the replies, it looks like I'm going to do it. Jeff, I can't quit make out what your plug/holder protector looks like. What make is it and where did you get it?
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Hey Danny
The plug holder keeps the terminals nice and dry (no corrosion) and nicely stored (as apposed to rapped around the tounge). I made an aluminum mounting bracket for it and used SS hardware. Make is PlugGaurd and I got it from Vos Trailers in Stittsville Ontario Canada http://www.vostrailers.ca/about.htm . I have seen it on line as well though http://plugguardstore.com/ .
Here's some more pics.
Cheers Jeff
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10-07-2009, 01:25 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1983 13 ft Scamp
Posts: 3,082
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I would be more concerned about shank diameter the ball size.
You will never break the hitch ball . But you could break off the shank, at the ball.
1 7/8" Ball comes with a 3/4' or a 1" shank diameter. Go with the 1".
2" ball comes with a 1" or 1 1/4" shank diameter. Go with the 1 1/4"
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10-07-2009, 02:40 PM
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#10
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1972 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 27
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Quote:
I would be more concerned about shank diameter the ball size.
You will never break the hitch ball . But you could break off the shank, at the ball.
1 7/8" Ball comes with a 3/4' or a 1" shank diameter. Go with the 1".
2" ball comes with a 1" or 1 1/4" shank diameter. Go with the 1 1/4"
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I went with a stainless steel 1" shank 2" Ball. As the SS has a 6000lb rating as appose to a 5000lb rating on a chromed 1" shank 2" Ball.
Cheers Jeff
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10-07-2009, 04:22 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
Posts: 3,008
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Jeff,
That's a nice, tidy looking job. I wish I had your welding place nearby!
Edited to say: I had asked if you could comment on the rearward location of your safety chains, but now I realize those are hooks upon which you stow the TV ends of the chains when you're not hitched up. Clever!
Thanks for posting the info and photos
Raya
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10-07-2009, 06:04 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Trillium 13 ft ('Homelet') / 2000 Subaru Outback
Posts: 2,222
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I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
__________________
A charter member of the Buffalo Plaid Brigade!
Whether you think you can or think you can't, you're right.
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10-07-2009, 06:27 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1981 13 ft Scamp / Nissan Titan
Posts: 1,852
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10-07-2009, 08:31 PM
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#14
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1972 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 27
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Quote:
I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
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Hey Roger looks like ya ran outta the good stuff Duck Tape lol.
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10-08-2009, 11:45 AM
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#15
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2009 Scamp 16 ft / 2003 Durango
Posts: 696
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The license plate explains it all. LOL
Bill K
Toledo,[b]OHIO
Quote:
I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
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10-08-2009, 01:50 PM
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#16
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Member
Trailer: 73 Boler
Posts: 46
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Quote:
I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
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Works for me, I just don't see using a good set of vise grips.
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10-09-2009, 12:19 PM
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#17
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Junior Member
Trailer: 1972 Trillium 13 ft
Posts: 27
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Quote:
Jeff,
That's a nice, tidy looking job. I wish I had your welding place nearby!
Edited to say: I had asked if you could comment on the rearward location of your safety chains, but now I realize those are hooks upon which you stow the TV ends of the chains when you're not hitched up. Clever!
Thanks for posting the info and photos
Raya
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Hey Ray
Thanks. I stumbled apon my welder here, while trying to find someone who does aluminum welds (refered by my local RV repair Center contact). As I wanted the live well hole aluminum double plate welded (on my Full Weld Modified V Crestliner Jon boat/Mossy Oak Shadow Grass Finish). Because My son and I were out duck hunting a couple years back and the livewell nut backed off while driving through the Rice/reeds. And nearly sunk us in the middle of Nov. (subzero temps). We barely made it to shore (glad we hade our rubber boots on as the water was over the sub floor and half way up our shins). Livewell is now storage compartment. Better keeping our lives than having a livewell I figured. Anyway these guys (Davtair Industries Inc.) do work mostly for the Milatary and RCMP. Very picky, which works for me. You name it they weld it (palstics/metals etc.). If your in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada or surrounding area, look them up for your welding Needs. Ask for Brian the shop manager (tell him I sent you/great guy).
Here's a pic, I know it's not an RV but someone might enjoy it (It is trailerable though lol).
Cheers Jeff
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04-27-2012, 02:34 PM
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#18
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Moderator
Name: RogerDat
Trailer: 2010 Scamp 16
Michigan
Posts: 3,744
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger C H
I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
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Yep license plate does say it all. Here in Mich. it ain't broke till we can't fix it.
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04-27-2012, 10:00 PM
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#19
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Senior Member
Trailer: One 13 ft Scamp and One 13 ft Trillium and Two Trillium 4500
Posts: 895
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I absolutely hate the 1 7/8" ball and will never own something that has one on it ...I've never understood why they still put 1 7/8" ball on anything anymore..In my opion they should phase them out....Why not make everything with 2" ball then you never worry about which ball you need..I've got 6 Trilliums and I've cut the hitch off everyone of them the very first thing and install a 2" hitch because that's what my Duckboat, Pontoon boat, and both utility trailers takes .....It just can't cost the manufactor that much difference to use a 2" hitch in lieu of a 1 7/8" hitch..When I went to buy a trailer for me and my son to haul our 4 wheeler's on I would ask the salesman what ball the trailer used if the salesman said 1 7/8" I told him no thanks and walk out ..I'll step off my soap box now and sorry for the RANT but it grips my butt.....
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04-27-2012, 10:09 PM
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#20
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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It "grips" your butt?
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