Any reason to go to 2" hitch - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-06-2009, 01:56 PM   #1
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I've noticed a few people, when restoring their frame; have gone to a 2" receiver. What are some reasons that you would want to do this? I'm bringing my frame into a welder for a new axle and other fixes and considering this. My original 1 7/8" receiver is badly rusted but still working. The locking mechanism has a real problem loosing up to go over the ball, and the spring needs replacing. I may be able to take it apart and fix it, but I'm trying to get all the information I can on a 2" first.
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Old 10-06-2009, 06:28 PM   #2
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My Scamp 16 came with a 2 inch hitch. I changed the coupler on my 1/2 ton utility trailer to a 2 inch one so I don't have to change hitch balls every time I want to use the 'other' trailer.

If you are rebuilding your frame, I'd go with the stronger 2 inch coupler for the added margin of safety.

-- Dan Meyer

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Old 10-07-2009, 11:47 AM   #3
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I've noticed a few people, when restoring their frame; have gone to a 2" receiver. What are some reasons that you would want to do this? I'm bringing my frame into a welder for a new axle and other fixes and considering this. My original 1 7/8" receiver is badly rusted but still working. The locking mechanism has a real problem loosing up to go over the ball, and the spring needs replacing. I may be able to take it apart and fix it, but I'm trying to get all the information I can on a 2" first.
Hey Danny

I changed my coupler from 1 7/8" to 2" for the extra security as well (new one also had the tounge lock hole which the old one did not), I think it was bent as well. And being a 1972 Trillium I figured it would have some wear as well after 37 years. As well my Boat and ATV trailers have 2" couplers (this allowed me to avoid changing up and down from 2" to 1 7/8" ball). I figured while I was bringing it to the welders anyway I'd have them beef up the tounge with an added crossmember, new lift (old one was tierd and bent handle, foot only/new one has wheel and foot option), safety chains (and houlder rings), Plug holder/protector (love it), coupler lock and fish plates added to strenghten the frame. Here's a before and after pic for ya.

Cheers Jeff
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:10 PM   #4
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Danny, I also changed from a 1 7/8" to a 2" ball AND coupler. Our old 1 7/8" coupler had let me down for the last time, and we decided that if it needed fixin', its probably goin to be better/safer to upgrade. I feel its always best to air on the side of safety instead of tryin to save MONEY, LOL!!!
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:50 PM   #5
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Thanks for the replies, it looks like I'm going to do it. Jeff, I can't quit make out what your plug/holder protector looks like. What make is it and where did you get it?
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:07 PM   #6
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I highly recommend if you are going to change out the coupler that you consider going with a Bulldog 2".
The change in towing performance and positive attachment is very noticeable since I had this switched 1.5 years ago.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:26 PM   #7
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I'd second the recommendation for the Bulldog if you are going to replace your coupler.
The price difference when I replaced ours was ~$40.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:39 PM   #8
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Thanks for the replies, it looks like I'm going to do it. Jeff, I can't quit make out what your plug/holder protector looks like. What make is it and where did you get it?
Hey Danny

The plug holder keeps the terminals nice and dry (no corrosion) and nicely stored (as apposed to rapped around the tounge). I made an aluminum mounting bracket for it and used SS hardware. Make is PlugGaurd and I got it from Vos Trailers in Stittsville Ontario Canada http://www.vostrailers.ca/about.htm . I have seen it on line as well though http://plugguardstore.com/ .

Here's some more pics.

Cheers Jeff
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:25 PM   #9
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I would be more concerned about shank diameter the ball size.
You will never break the hitch ball . But you could break off the shank, at the ball.

1 7/8" Ball comes with a 3/4' or a 1" shank diameter. Go with the 1".

2" ball comes with a 1" or 1 1/4" shank diameter. Go with the 1 1/4"
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Old 10-07-2009, 03:40 PM   #10
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I would be more concerned about shank diameter the ball size.
You will never break the hitch ball . But you could break off the shank, at the ball.

1 7/8" Ball comes with a 3/4' or a 1" shank diameter. Go with the 1".

2" ball comes with a 1" or 1 1/4" shank diameter. Go with the 1 1/4"
I went with a stainless steel 1" shank 2" Ball. As the SS has a 6000lb rating as appose to a 5000lb rating on a chromed 1" shank 2" Ball.

Cheers Jeff
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Old 10-07-2009, 05:22 PM   #11
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Jeff,

That's a nice, tidy looking job. I wish I had your welding place nearby!

Edited to say: I had asked if you could comment on the rearward location of your safety chains, but now I realize those are hooks upon which you stow the TV ends of the chains when you're not hitched up. Clever!

Thanks for posting the info and photos

Raya
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:04 PM   #12
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I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:27 PM   #13
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:31 PM   #14
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I see no reason for changing anything in my hitch set up. It works just fine:
Hey Roger looks like ya ran outta the good stuff Duck Tape lol.
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