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Old 02-01-2006, 02:44 PM   #21
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Trailer: Trillium
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I have looked at everyone of my windows and it does not look like I have an escape window. I am trying to locate a dealer for a Freecom portable A/C unit. is only 10 inches wide, 16 inches deep and 25 inches tall. It has a 5 inch exaust hose and weights 36 pounds. My other option is to install a window unit in the closet???? any thought about thoes two.
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Old 02-01-2006, 03:49 PM   #22
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John, is the back window over the table divided into two parts?

if one has the crank out windows( right side looking out from inside)
and the other is a single pane, ( left side looking out) this is the escape window that every one is mentioning.
it will have two clam type catches about 2-4 inches from the bottom.
undo these catches and the single pane window will swing outward,
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Old 02-01-2006, 04:07 PM   #23
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Quote:
John, is the back window over the table divided into two parts?

if one has the crank out windows( right side looking out from inside)
and the other is a single pane, ( left side looking out) this is the escape window that every one is mentioning.
it will have two clam type catches about 2-4 inches from the bottom.
undo these catches and the single pane window will swing outward,
Both sides of my rear window are crank outs???
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Old 02-01-2006, 04:12 PM   #24
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i tryed the porable a/c unit in my 1300 even cut a porthole in the side and the unit fit in the closet. only troble is it did not cool verywell. the exhust was going out just fine but was sucking warm air in through every crack and loose seal. i could have cut another hole in the side for and air intake. i stoped with out porthole in the closet and whent with the simple frame in the escape window the frame fit in so it coul stay in with the window closed. wish i had some pictures of it down here here with me. the escape window is the one with solid pane it has 2 clips on either side and a hinge on the topside the seal was a little sticky but never leaked after many openings. I will look for it next time iam in Virginia
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Old 02-01-2006, 07:58 PM   #25
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I have a 1978 Trillium and the escape hatch is in the rear, but I noticed some older Trilliums had the exscape window in the front. Maybe the 1975 model didn't have an escape window or someone swapped it out.

I took my rear window completely out and cut a piece of plywood (1/2 inch I believe) the same beveled edge as the wood holding the window in. I then cut a hole in the middle for the air conditioner and secured it with for angled brackets. I put a thin sheet of plywood over the outside and screwed them together. This worked great for use however I intend to mount a unit on the roof someday. I hope to be able to start working on it this May. I can post inside pictures but the outside rear of the trailer is way to close to the house.
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Old 02-01-2006, 08:00 PM   #26
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Some of the portable units which vent through hoses use a single exhaust hose, with the necessary makeup air (replacement for what is going out the exhaust coming through whatever hole it can find. I have a portable in my home (not to be used in the trailer as it is far to bulky) which has 2 hoses: intake and exhaust. The two hose setup means that outside air is kept separate from inside, just like the window units or built-in systems, which seems like a much better idea to me.

I have yet to see a two-hose portable that is small enough, but if one could be found I would consider A/C in the trailer, although this arrangement will always need a lot of bulky/heavy/expensive fan capacity to "breathe" through those hoses. Another factor which makes the portables bulky is that they normally have a tank for the condensate (water removed from the air), while window units can depend on draining it outside.
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Old 02-13-2006, 09:56 PM   #27
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I don't know about Trilliums, but I think the best place to put an AC is in a closet. Roof mounted units add weight stress to the shell, add air flow resistance and shift the trailer's center of gravity higher. I have a closet mounted unit in my Scamp. Take a look:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...howtopic=18525

The weight of this AC rest directly on plywood and the frame and it cools really well.
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Old 02-15-2006, 01:31 AM   #28
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I'm happy with my "installation," if you could even call it that. I bought a used 5K BTU window air conditioner for $25. I strapped it onto a shelf in my empty fridge space, putting a sink dish drainer underneath to catch the condensation and dump it outside. I sandwiched a cheap old 12 V box fan behind the AC to boost the hot exhaust air flow, and propped the louvered door open. Another 12V fan sits on the floor in front of the unit and blows cold air upwards. I probably have $60 in the whole system, which weighs less than 60 lbs. It kept my new 16' Scamp comfortable through two August weeks in Tennessee and Kentucky. Most of the time when I'm camping in Colorado I won't even bring it along. If I used it more, I might want a more permanent solution, but I've spent the bigger bucks on a MaxxAir fan and , next , a cat heater.
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Old 02-15-2006, 05:29 AM   #29
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I'm happy with my "installation," if you could even call it that. I bought a used 5K BTU window air conditioner for $25. I strapped it onto a shelf in my empty fridge space, putting a sink dish drainer underneath to catch the condensation and dump it outside. I sandwiched a cheap old 12 V box fan behind the AC to boost the hot exhaust air flow, and propped the louvered door open. Another 12V fan sits on the floor in front of the unit and blows cold air upwards. I probably have $60 in the whole system, which weighs less than 60 lbs. It kept my new 16' Scamp comfortable through two August weeks in Tennessee and Kentucky. Most of the time when I'm camping in Colorado I won't even bring it along. If I used it more, I might want a more permanent solution, but I've spent the bigger bucks on a MaxxAir fan and , next , a cat heater.
I thank everyone for their suggestions. I have come to the conclusion that the closet method would be the best. Trilliums have the breaker box in the closet, which I have moved up higher out of the way of the a/c unit. I have also installed a outlet. I hve searched the internet for the smallest window unit. Best Buy has a Frigadaire ( spelling )
that is only 12x12x15 inches. The exhaust wil be the only challenge, cutting the hole in the side of the camper, and separating the exhaust from the intake. I think it is probably the best method.
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Old 05-10-2006, 01:59 PM   #30
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Just got into the camping thing. Have a Trillium and are looking for suggestions on how to install a A/C unit??

We looked into putting AC in our 17 ft. Boler. It was $2,200 for the unit and then you had to re-inforce the roof and pay for installation. My wife suggested buying a portable unit. We found a good one on sale at Sears for $488 Canadian. It is a Delonghi 9000 BTU. It is compact and has one hose to vent it. I am going to place it under an existing small counter and vent it out the bottom of the trailer (Adapter comes with it). We can now bring it to camp or in the house if we wish.
Dan
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Old 05-10-2006, 05:44 PM   #31
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http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/index.ph...pe=post&id=2492


Here's one on an '80 4500
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Old 05-10-2006, 06:00 PM   #32
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here's another
Attached Thumbnails
Kempton___Sam_Du_Sept___05.jpg   Kempton___Sam_du_2_sept___05.jpg  

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Old 05-10-2006, 08:57 PM   #33
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Well, I'm chillin now. Planning to be in Austin Texas in June I knew I would need some cooling. Found this Fedders unit at Sam's club online Fedders 9000 BTU AC/Heat. It's not there any more, but it is at Walmart as you can see by the link.

Puzzled and puzzled over where to vent the hoses. Tried the ceiling fan but got too much recirculation and not enough fresh air. Hoses are too short to reach the side windows. Sooo, unless I was willing to cut holes in my Trill (which I am not partial to doing) that left the window in the door. Measured up and yup the bracket fits and the hoses discharge within the window opening. Needed something to fill space between screen and hose ends, so got one of those foam kneeling pads and cut two holes in it to line up with the openings for the hoses. Attached two of the stick on hooks to the door to hold the bracket in place and viola --- chillin time. Wasn't using the space in front of the door any way.

It is probably twice the cooling needed for the trailer, at least so far. In the sun and 85 degrees didn't phase it. Just testing it pulled it down to 65 in less than 10 minutes. I think it might see double duty in the house.

Next test will be to see if the Honda 2K can run it. I already found out it trips the breaker if I try to use microwave or electric skillet with it when on shore power.

Curt
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