Attach points on the shell without piercing it? - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-06-2012, 04:16 PM   #1
Senior Member
 
dylanear's Avatar
 
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
Attach points on the shell without piercing it?

I want to add some shelves. The larger, lower ones I'll probably put bolts through the shell to add anchor points. But I have 4 or 5 small shelves planned and don't feel like putting that many holes in my shell or having a whole bunch of added "dots" on the outside.

So I was thinking. Could I make a small cut in my fur/reflectix, open it up a bit, prep the area in there with some sandpaper and acetone. Then wrap the head of a bolt with fiberglass, dip it in resin and stick it on there. Holding it in place while curing may be a challenge.

If the shelf will not be holding anything too heavy, is there any chance something like that will hold long term? Even if there's nothing heavy, I'm not keen on my shelving falling down.
__________________

__________________
dylanear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 05:32 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 4,954
Look at where you want to put a shelf and see if there are already rivets in the area.

Where do you want shelves? There are a gazillion ideas here in the forums.
__________________

__________________
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 07:23 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
dylanear's Avatar
 
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
I have the design all laid out, some of the wood cut. Of course I made something as simple as shelves horribly complex. Hollow construction (like a door) and rounded edges (to match the molded fiberglass sooth edges).

The two small shelves I plan to put up between the bed top cabinet and the closet and kitchen top cabinet should be easy, anchor into cabinets/closet.

The other will be in a stack of sorts. The lowest being extra strong, supported from below so it can be used as a seat, since it's replacing the front left seat. Above that the next will be even with the kitchen counter height to extend that counter space, I'll probably bolt through the shell for that one for strength. Then two above that are the issue really. I hope to make them removable too , for flexible reconfiguration.
__________________
dylanear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 07:34 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
dylanear's Avatar
 
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
As of now, I have a bag of bolt anchors meant to be sunk into wood. I'm thinking of making small 1/4" plywood circles, about an 1 1/4", putting the anchor in there, put a layer of fiberglass cloth around it and resin it onto the inside shell. Then all sorts of hardware could be bolted into the anchors. I just hope the rat fur incision will close up without being too ugly. Not a big deal when the shelves are in place, but may be ugly when no shelf is up. And I'd like to anchor my shower curtain in the same way and it won't be up all the time.
__________________
dylanear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 08:02 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 4,954
Have you considered glassing T nuts in?
__________________
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2012, 08:39 PM   #6
Senior Member
 
Name: Eddie
Trailer: 2014 Escape 21
Virginia
Posts: 1,556
When running new wiring harnesses in aircraft we would have the sheet metal guys epoxy studs to the aircraft frame and we would attach clamps to them to hold the wires. The studs were usually 10-32 screws with a flat heads about 1" in diameter and the head had several holes in it for the epoxy to grip to. Very rarely did they come unattached and they were really strong. I think these studs were discussed here several years ago. Uncle Sugar supplied the ones we used, Granger or McMaster Carr may be a good source for them. Any tin benders out there know a source for them?
Eddie
__________________
Eddie Longest is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2012, 10:39 AM   #7
Member
 
Name: Jason
Trailer: 75 boler
Saskatchewan
Posts: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Have you considered glassing T nuts in?
what are T nuts? and could i use this method for my upper cupboards. glass in the T nuts then attach the bolts for the cupboard into the T nuts. just wondering. i want to put the cupboards back up without piercing my boler cause i will be painting it and dont want any holes in the shell.
__________________
sheephills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2012, 12:51 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Carol Ann in TO's Avatar
 
Trailer: 1972 Boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500 (plus 2 Rhodesian Ridgebacks)
Posts: 367
Registry

Name:   image-2096484383.jpg
Views: 216
Size:  9.5 KB

A t-nut. Wikipedia is our friend
__________________
Carol Ann in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2012, 03:58 PM   #9
Member
 
Name: Jason
Trailer: 75 boler
Saskatchewan
Posts: 55
Thanks for that Carol Ann i never think of wikipedia, i guess i should more offten.
__________________
sheephills is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2012, 05:10 PM   #10
Senior Member
 
dylanear's Avatar
 
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
When I said, "bolt anchors" those T-bolts are exactly what I meant. I have a big bag of 'em. I just need to figure out how to fiberglass them in. Would it be best to put them in a wooden "plug" for lack of a better word, or just glass them in directly?

I'm doing work under the rear dinettes, I may do a few experiments in there where mess ups will not be apparent. I could use some points on the walls in those compartments, to organize the wires and pipes, keep them up in the walls and not just wildly going all over those compartments.

I'm getting a little braver about my use of fiberglass, look out, I may be dangerous!
__________________
dylanear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-07-2012, 05:13 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
dylanear's Avatar
 
Name: Dylan
Trailer: 2001 Scamp 13'
British Columbia
Posts: 798
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
When running new wiring harnesses in aircraft we would have the sheet metal guys epoxy studs to the aircraft frame and we would attach clamps to them to hold the wires. The studs were usually 10-32 screws with a flat heads about 1" in diameter and the head had several holes in it for the epoxy to grip to. Very rarely did they come unattached and they were really strong. I think these studs were discussed here several years ago. Uncle Sugar supplied the ones we used, Granger or McMaster Carr may be a good source for them. Any tin benders out there know a source for them?
Eddie
I'd love to see an example of these "studs".
__________________
dylanear is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2012, 06:21 AM   #12
Senior Member
 
Ron F's Avatar
 
Name: Ron
Trailer: Eggless for now.
Formerly NH, now full timing
Posts: 405
Registry
Dylan,
This may not work for your shelving, but I simply used 3M 4200 Fast Cure (polyeurethane adhesive) to attach hardwood blocks to the interior of the fiberglass shell, then fastened the shelving to the blocks. Here's a link showing the shelving: Recent Updates for the EggCamper . The EggCamper doesn't use rivets. Instead all of the inside cabinetry, etc. is secured with adhesive and it really holds. No holes in the shell.

Ron
__________________
Ron F is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2012, 06:48 AM   #13
Senior Member
 
Trailer:
Posts: 787
There must be an American equivalent to the BigHead fastener that is used everywhere in composite industry over here.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Andrew Gibbens is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-08-2012, 02:45 PM   #14
Senior Member
 
Roy in TO's Avatar
 
Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Ontario
Posts: 4,954
FYI 3M says use 4200 if you want to disassemble, 5200 if you want permanent. Quoting from this document:
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...200%20Rev2.pdf


Applications:
3M
TM Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 4200 is designed to allow disassembly of wood and fiberglass parts
bonded together. If a permanent bond is desired, use 3M
TM Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 or Marine
Adhesive/Sealant Fast Cure 5200.
Typical bonding and sealing applications include:
-Fiberglass deck to fiberglass hull
-Wood to fiberglass
-Portholes
-Deck fittings
-Moldings
-Trunk joints

-
Between struts and planking
-Stern joints
Sealing of:
-Some plastics (test before assembly)
-Glass

-Metals

No time right now to track down the tech specs on 5200. One of the brochures also indicates bond strength differences. You have to match the colours to the products in this brochure. There is a difference in strength between the 5200 fast and regular sets.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...400-5507-1.pdf

__________________

__________________
Roy in TO is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Canopy attach advice please Sue and Henry Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 41 08-10-2012 01:35 AM
Attach wood to gelcoat??? artspe Modifications, Alterations and Updates 20 04-06-2012 04:20 PM
7 points campground, Percy Priest Lake, Nashville joelh Camping, Campout Reports 0 09-30-2010 06:56 PM
How did you attach your sway bar? Chris Z Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 9 04-11-2006 07:59 PM
Points to Ponder Legacy Posts Jokes, Stories & Tall Tales 33 08-15-2003 05:51 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:32 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.