Attach small windows with bolts?

[Amy M]

I am in the process of removing and re-sealing the windows in my Boler. The larger dinette windows are attached with screws, so I am just replacing those with the same. The small windows over the stove and in the door are attached with rivets, which I am trying to avoid. I can't find any mention of anyone replacing these rivets with machine screws and nuts, so I am not sure it will work.

[Tom U]

I am in the process of removing and re-sealing the windows in my Boler. The larger dinette windows are attached with screws, so I am just replacing those with the same. The small windows over the stove and in the door are attached with rivets, which I am trying to avoid. I can't find any mention of anyone replacing these rivets with machine screws and nuts, so I am not sure it will work.

I haven't replaced rivets on a trailer with bolts but I have on aircraft and boats. Works fine if both sides of the item are accessible.

Go to a marine supply (West Marine) and use stainless machine screws and stainless nylock nuts. Match the size of the screw to to existing hole as well as possible (slightly smaller than existing hole). It is a bummer to have to drill larger holes. Be sure to use some butyl tape when setting the window and put a little around each screw.

I'm sure others will weigh in with good ideas. Good Luck

[Amy M]

Thanks, Tom. And I will add: Go Slugs!

(UCSC Class of 1991)

[Donna D.]

You might check a regular hardware store, like True Value in the Seattle area... if you have 'em. I've purchased stainless steel hardware like bolts, nuts and screws at my local True Value and they're alot cheaper than a marine supply house.

[Alf S.]

Hi Amy M... To attach the small window over the stove on our former '77 Boler I used 1/2" S/S screws. I made a 1/2" thick plywood ring with a hole cutout the same size as the window opening. It was a little tight geting it under the Ensolite but it fit using a hair dryer to soften it. This is how the windows are put in Trilliums I think and the plywood acts as a clamp ring. Takes two to tangle tho!!!
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie

[Greg A]

Hey Amy,

I did get rid of 95% of the rivets on my Scamp and replaced with SS bolts and screw. The one's I decided to stay with rivets on were the small windows on the door and over the kitchen. I personally liked the look of the rivets better on those windows and it is much simpler to reseal and reattach those windows with a rivet gun then with machine screws.

Make sure you use Stainless Steel if you use machine screws/nuts and not the Zinc type home depot predominately carries. Ace or True Value as Donna said above are a good local source for Stainless machine screw selection.

[Ed Harris]

Lowes has a good selection of SS screws and bolts too,surprising but true!

[Raya]

I would add that I, personally, would use type 316 stainless. All stainless steel can rust (i.e. it is stain "less" not stain proof) and type 316 is more rust/corrosion resistant than your typical 304 (as often found at the corner hardware store). You can order these from McMaster and have them the next day 95% of the time (for their normal shipping fee). If you are going to be in salt air, it's more important than if you are in dry interior parts of the country.

Note that when Alf mentioned the wooden trim ring on the inside, that's because he used "wood screws" (pointy tip buried in the wood and so no nut on the inside). If you chose machine screws (non-pointy tip) and nuts on the inside you would not need a trim ring. It's just two ways of doing it.

Raya

[Tom U]

Thanks, Tom. And I will add: Go Slugs!

(UCSC Class of 1991)

You go girl! Class of '70, College V (Porter).

[Tom U]

You might check a regular hardware store, like True Value in the Seattle area... if you have 'em. I've purchased stainless steel hardware like bolts, nuts and screws at my local True Value and they're alot cheaper than a marine supply house.

Donna,

I may move up to your neck of the woods. Maybe its 'cause West Marine is headquartered here but their Stainless is half the price of True Value, Ace or OSH. Go figure...

I like your point, though - shop around! There is usually a big price range on most things.

Thanks

[Donna D.]

Donna,

I may move up to your neck of the woods. Maybe its 'cause West Marine is headquartered here but their Stainless is half the price of True Value, Ace or OSH. Go figure...

I like your point, though - shop around! There is usually a big price range on most things.

Thanks

Maybe true enough about the costs. Though for me True Value is about a mile away and West Marine about 10 miles away. ANY project I undertake requires at least 3-6 trips to the store, so I factor in the cost of fuel for those trips

[Tom U]

ANY project I undertake requires at least 3-6 trips to the store, so I factor in the cost of fuel for those trips

How right you are! I'm on a first name basis with all the clerks at the local Ace. By the time one factors in the mileage and the time (no charge for time on one's own project ) a quick trip makes sense, especially if the savings for a longer one is pennies.

[bkboler]

Looks like there hasn't been any posts in a while but I'm kinda going thru a similar situation except that I'm trying to refasten my top cabinet above the stove and counter. The rivets are broken so I'm replacing them with ss bolts. My worry is rain seeping in. What I was told (and what I did) was to grind down some of the gel coat and clean it up a bit and use a bolt with a washer with a rubber gasket attached to it, and tighten it down with a nut. Does that sound right or is there another way? Eventually I will be painting my boler and I'm not sure if the screws can be painted over or if they will all have to come out. Any Ideas?

[Donna D.]

Gosh, I'm not sure why grinding down the gel coat would make the attachment point more waterproof.... I might have used a dap of FlexSeal or Pro-Flex around the bolt (very neatly of course ) before I ground the body. Obviously YMMV