attaching the closet to the shell - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-11-2016, 02:52 PM   #15
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trailswest Campster
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Originally Posted by HawkBoler72 View Post
I'm in the process of restoring my 1972 13' Boler. Learned a lot from all these postings. Here I take the other question "any one have good luck with using small computer fans in the roof vent".
Inspired by Ian's idea of using two computer fans, Power Roof Vent - Boler-Camping, I put four of them each has its own on/off switch. Not tested yet, hopefully they will work fine.
The discussion of the vent fan is best put into its own thread with a title relevant to the subject being discussed otherwise your question and all the responses to it get lost within the thread title of attaching a closet.
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Old 05-11-2016, 02:56 PM   #16
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Good idea indeed. I was just responding to the initial question of that thread.
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Old 05-12-2016, 07:02 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by k corbin View Post
The discussion of the vent fan is best put into its own thread with a title relevant to the subject being discussed otherwise your question and all the responses to it get lost within the thread title of attaching a closet.
Gotcha, thank you
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Old 05-13-2016, 08:44 AM   #18
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HI........I have a 73 Boler. Mostly been restored . Need though to reattach the closet to the shell. Some of the pot rivets have let go. So I am thinking of using stainless steel bolts 24/10 with lock nuts on inside. Of course use sealant around bolts. Any one other then me has done this in the their bolers? If so what is your take on the results? Also going to repaint outside thinking of lightly sanding and using a Marine enamel. Figure to roll in on. Also any one have good luck with using small computer fans in the roof vent? Any comments and advise will be well received. Cheers , Dust-in

The later bolers did not use pop rivets. Our seats and cupboards are tabbed in using fiberglass tape making a cleaner and stronger seal. The cupboards now make a stronger unit and no unsightly rivets showing.


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Old 05-13-2016, 08:47 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by james kent View Post
The later bolers did not use pop rivets. Our seats and cupboards are tabbed in using fiberglass tape making a cleaner and stronger seal. The cupboards now make a stronger unit and no unsightly rivets showing.
The lack of rivets depends on which factory the Boler was made.
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:09 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by james kent View Post
The later bolers did not use pop rivets. Our seats and cupboards are tabbed in using fiberglass tape making a cleaner and stronger seal. The cupboards now make a stronger unit and no unsightly rivets showing.


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Interesting how things evolved .....well my top cabinets were reattached , by the last owner by drilling out the rivets and then installing stainless 3/16 bolts (outside head was flat low profile) with lock nuts inside. That was an interesting move on his part. Did a good job, certainly is solid but when it comes to the closet , as it is attached to the top and bottom half of the trailer and from what I understand , the boiler does move and twist here and there I was concerned about this method of bolts. But this method of fibreglassing the units to the trailer do sound like a better method. As of yet I am sitting on the fence for a few days. Sure appreciate your input. You and this forum is such a great way to get team building and support. Thank you , Dust-in.
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