Atwood Furnace Ignites But Won't Stay On - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-28-2018, 02:27 PM   #15
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I have this Atwood in my 13' " Lil Bigfoot ". If the side access to the fan is removed and the exhaust pipe is pulled out the side air could be blown IN with a powerful leaf blower.or a high pressure air hose with the exhaust opening blocked to keep air in pipe it could blow the possible paper wasp nest out from the flame area. there is no reason for smoke to be coming from anywhere else. there are no burnable parts here, or near here.metal parts will not produce smoke. they could heat up and cause serious over heated metal odors, but not smoke. The parts are kept cool by the fan, for the 5 seconds it is on. the fan cools these parts to heat the interior.( radiator)
Does air exit the exhaust pipe, when the fan comes on?
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Old 11-28-2018, 02:34 PM   #16
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and once you get it running, install a varmint cover over the exterior exhaust vent.
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Old 12-01-2018, 11:40 AM   #17
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The thermocouple is bad.

Kindergarten explanation....When the ignitor lights the pilot, it heats the thermocouple which generates a small electric current.....the current tells the control board to open the gas valve......the gas valve stays open until the thermostat tells the control board that the set temp has been reached.

When the thermocouple goes bad, the ignitor lights the pilot and the gas valve may briefly open allowing the burners to light......however, when the control board does not see the electrical current from the thermocouple, it closes the gas valve.
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:51 PM   #18
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John I think ya got it
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Old 12-01-2018, 12:56 PM   #19
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I meant Mark's answer sounds so correct. What about the smoke ?
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Old 12-01-2018, 02:40 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Kenny Strong View Post
I meant Mark's answer sounds so correct. What about the smoke ?

There must have been something left in the burner chamber (paper wasp nest, dead creature, whatever) that burned on first lighting. Wouldn't hurt to open it up as much as possible and check again for residue.


I was about to add the last step in the ignition series - There is either a thermocouple or ionization detector in the flame area that detects that the flame is burning. If it doesn't detect the flame within a few seconds the furnace shuts down again. If the burner definitely lights that sounds like what is happening. It may wait a few seconds and try again. This may repeat a few times, then shut down permanently.



Burning extraneous material might effect an ionization detector. It could be a bad thermocouple/detector, disconnected or broken wire, or circuit board problem. That's where I'd look next.
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Old 12-01-2018, 03:12 PM   #21
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Have you considered just sliding the furnace out and take it to a repair shop to have them fix and lube anything that moves after so little use?



Also easier to troubleshoot on a bench than in the rig....
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Old 12-04-2018, 11:55 AM   #22
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furnace guy

OK I have a good furnance guy. (Bloomington heating and cooling if you are local) He camps and knows the stuff on this too. I left my camper with him for a few days and he worked on it during some idle time and didn't charge me a lot. Fixed it right up. Much cheaper and much closer than a rv place that works on them.

Might see what your local furance guys tell you.


Also if you disassemble it, it has to be put back together with new gaskets.
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Old 02-04-2019, 09:28 AM   #23
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Kathryn,


The suggestion about the auto shutoff sounds like the best I've heard. There's a tiny pipe that gets heated by the flame. It's a thermocouple (produces electricity from the heat) and that tells the controller that the flame is ON. If thats damaged, no juice. After the programmed time, the controller sees no current there and shuts off the gas to prevent a buildup of unfired gasses, preventing the loud and disconcerting boom and uncontrolled fire. This must be fixed or (more likely today) replaced (probably the entire controller) by a qualified tech.


The other possibility that occurs to me is a lack of sufficient gas flow to the burner, possibly caused by a kinked or squashed propane line somewhere between the tank and the burner. This would allow sufficient pressure to light the burner, but as the main flame consumed the gas in the line, the pressure and flow would drop, causing the shutoff. Gas is still flowing slowly, the pressure would rebuild allowing a relight and repeat.


Either scenario is possible, but you can check the gas line visually without spending money on a technician. If that doesn't look like the problem, take it to a pro.


And check to make sure your camper's propane alarm is working, so you won't be asphyxiated or blown up in the night by a propane leak. Propane is heavier than air, so tends to pool up (as would water) in anyplace where it can't flow out.
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