Awning support - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-22-2014, 05:44 PM   #1
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Name: Mike
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Awning support

Wondering if anyone has any advice for me? I have a Bigfoot 17 and one of the awning support blocks has been ripped off. The lag bolts have pulled right out. Any thought on how to best re-attach the support would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
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Old 07-22-2014, 06:04 PM   #2
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Could you post a pic Mike?
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:37 PM   #3
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Sounds like you need to do a fiberglass job from the inside out.
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Old 07-22-2014, 07:52 PM   #4
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I have attached a pic, also any advice on those scratches would be great!?

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Old 07-22-2014, 07:54 PM   #5
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Just a follow up, lag bolts will thread back into the holes. I was thinking of filling the holes with Pl premium and putting in the screws while it was setting up.

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Old 07-22-2014, 10:38 PM   #6
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Here is a close up of the holes, there are some small cracks around the holes. Do the cracks need any special treatment or just some caulking?

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Old 07-22-2014, 10:53 PM   #7
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If it was me, I would use Life Caulk. Once it sets up good, it is amazing stuff.

Amazon.com: LIFE CALK, 1 OZ TUBE, WHITE: Sports & Outdoors

Best of luck to ya!

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Old 07-22-2014, 11:54 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in Mission View Post
Here is a close up of the holes, there are some small cracks around the holes. Do the cracks need any special treatment or just some caulking?

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I would at least sand down the raised areas around the hole for sure although the experts I suspect would suggest you bevel the edge of the holes in before filing.

I would use an epoxy to repair it. A couple I have used & I know others here have as well is Marine Tex Epoxy Putty. Another one I have used that is really easy to use - just cut off as much as you need and kneed it is called Magic Bond Epoxy Stick although there are several other brands of the same thing out there. Check at a marine supply shop. Either product will dry hard and allow you to drill new holes.
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Old 07-23-2014, 05:35 AM   #9
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MIke

Is it possible to get a piece of wood in behind where the lag bolts enter? That way the lag bolts enter the fiberglass then the wood. As others have stated sand it off flush, use whatever filling compound is strongest, re drill and use the lags. You should be good to go.

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Old 07-23-2014, 06:07 AM   #10
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Make sure the wood behind the holes is not rotten so that the lag screws have good wood to bite into. If accessible, you can use bolts in lieu of the screws, but still use the wood block behind to spread the stress out.
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Old 07-23-2014, 09:35 PM   #11
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Unfortunately the wood blocks are not accessible, I will do a test drill to see if some longer lag bolts will hit some fresh wood. Then I will try the suggested epoxy filler, redrill and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestions.

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Old 07-24-2014, 12:44 AM   #12
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Carol, I like the look of that marine tex putty thanks for posting that. Hopefully I can find some within Canada. Never seen that product before.
I vote bolts with nuts and lock washers if possible.
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:54 AM   #13
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as weird as it sounds, I've had great luck getting wood to bite again by using some toothpicks with wood glue inserted into the hole, just stick them in and break off the excess and thread the bolt. If it still doesn't grab, add more toothpicks. Works great on door hinges and stuff like that.
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Old 07-24-2014, 12:49 PM   #14
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In the marine world we would drill a much larger hole to the depth of the old screw. Then we would use 5 minute epoxy and glue in a hard wood dowel filling the hole and leave the dowel just short of the surface and cover the end with epoxy. Put plastic and masking tape to contain the mess and keep it off the trailer surface. After cure drill a pilot hole into the new plugs and screw that bracket back on. I would mask around the bracket and use 3M 4200 sealant under the bracket if I wanted to be able to remove it later or 3M 5200 sealant if I want it more or less permanent. The bracket bedded in the 3m sealant wont let water into the wood behind it and will spread the load from the awning arms to the trailer instead of just into the screws. There is allot of load on those brackets. The hard wood dowels will hold screws better than standard wood and the oversize dowels will be bonded into a much larger area of weak wood making a stronger glue joint and sealing the old wood from moisture. Putting masking tape around the bracket before you seal under the whole bracket and squeeze it up tight will allow you to wipe up the excess squeeze out and then pull the tape for a clean install. This is how we repair loose railings on boats. The bracket will cover the repair and make it invisible. Its allot more work than slapping epoxy in the hole but it will be done once and done right. Especially since you cant get to the backside to put a new solid backing.
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