bad rims 2016 Scamp ? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-19-2016, 05:06 AM   #1
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Name: Eugene
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bad rims 2016 Scamp ?

bad rims
13 ft Scamp 2016; tapper to lug hole
From Backus to Florida I check the lug nuts every stop for the first 3000 miles everyone was OK
About 13000 miles///// for some reason checked them again ////.four lug nuts was loose about 1/4 turn ...the other rim two was loose.

What I found was little to no tapper to the holes and the lug nuts are being cut because of no or little tapper to the rim holes

Does my new scamp have three bad rims?
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Old 03-19-2016, 05:58 AM   #2
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Kind of sounds like it, give Scamp a call, they may have received a bad batch.
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:12 AM   #3
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pictures please
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Old 03-19-2016, 09:34 AM   #4
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Do you check them with a lug wrench, preferably a torque wrench, or just visually. Being just a little loose could cause the wear into the nuts. And then the looseness increases
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:08 AM   #5
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Could the rims be installed inside out ? I saw it once on a car from the factory.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:33 AM   #6
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The sound of that issue makes me nervous about picking up a new Scamp soon.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:47 AM   #7
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A good reason to spend some time touring Minnesota before heading home and to check lug nuts frequently during the break-in period (as recommended by Scamp).

In this case I would take it to a local tire and wheel shop and get their assessment of the situation. A professional diagnosis will help you work with Scamp if there is a defect.

Let's not rush to judgment...
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:50 AM   #8
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Calm down everyone..

We picked up our 13 ft Deluxe on Jan. 2nd , 2016 in Backus MN. I checked the torque at the factory along w/tire pressure...then at a few stops along the way.

Backus MN = 110ft/lbs
Little Falls MN = 110ft/lbs
Ramsey MN = 110ft/lbs (about 150 miles)
Oshskosh WI = 110-112ft/lbs (450 miles)
Glenbeulah WI = 111 ft/lbs (485 miles)

..Then I took the wheels off and put on some aluminum rims....only because I liked them. Wheels, lug nuts, and center cap $70 shipped to my door.
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:51 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herons View Post
The sound of that issue makes me nervous about picking up a new Scamp soon.
Don't sweat it! this is a very isolated case with no determination of cause.
If you like, you can have your wheels re-torqued before you leave the factory.
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Old 03-19-2016, 12:00 PM   #10
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here some pics
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Old 03-19-2016, 11:23 PM   #11
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lug nut and wheels

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Originally Posted by EugeneFlorida View Post
here some pics
Wow, Eugene! You do need to contact Scamp. I'm no expert but it appears that the lug nuts don't match the rim. It looks like the rim has cut a groove right into the lug nuts?

Here is something I found on the internet. Spherical seat and conical seat lug nuts.

A Few Facts About Lug Nuts - Performance Plus Wheel and Tire
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Old 03-20-2016, 06:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by DuaneQ View Post
Wow, Eugene! You do need to contact Scamp. I'm no expert but it appears that the lug nuts don't match the rim. It looks like the rim has cut a groove right into the lug nuts?

Here is something I found on the internet. Spherical seat and conical seat lug nuts.

A Few Facts About Lug Nuts - Performance Plus Wheel and Tire
Thanks

Funny you should say that... the video on tires and rims said the lug nuts take a 3/4 socket but mine have 13/16 socket really glad I stopped and bought a set of 1/2 drive socket, on the way back to Florida.

Has anyone else had the rim holes and Lug nuts look like mine
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Old 03-20-2016, 08:24 AM   #13
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Actually the nuts look normal, the rims are tapered but the nuts shouldn't be cutting the metal unless they are being over tightened. I'd suggest using a torque wrench with the proper setting versus a socket wrench which can and do strip the wheel rims. Also why are the nuts so clean and the rims so dirty and greasy?
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Old 03-20-2016, 10:36 AM   #14
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Pictures are about as clear as possible.
No obvious indications of any flaw that I can see.
One possibility would be a heavy coat of paint which prevented the lug nuts from taking an initial set.
I'd say simply remove and retorque each lug nut, making sure all excess paint is gone from the tapered seat and the wheel is snug against the brake drum.
torque specs vary from chart to chart (I use 90psi for 1/2" studs)
This will probably solve the problem... Then trust but verify after a few miles.
I assume that what may look like grease is actually only the bare metal where the lug nuts have been tightened.

Is there any indication of thread damage?
VERY UNLIKELY BUT...
Check to be sure that the studs and the lugs are compatible. That is to say both SAE threads or both Metric. (Threads not wrench size)
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