Bargman lock wanted - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 10-01-2011, 03:29 PM   #15
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I agree with you...... I am having trouble with my lock on my 94 casita and not sure what type it is yet but it will get a thorough cleaning first.
I seen an ingenious trick someone used years back to hold their door closed. they simply hooked a rubber bungee inside the trailer and then stretched it out and hooked it to the bottom of the door to keep it closed for the rest of the trip..
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:35 PM   #16
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"Bungee Lock" to stretch our luck

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(...)
I seen an ingenious trick someone used years back to hold their door closed. they simply hooked a rubber bungee inside the trailer and then stretched it out and hooked it to the bottom of the door to keep it closed for the rest of the trip..
joe
Interesting suggestion... the "Bungee Lock", to stretch our luck if we have a bad luck with our lock.
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Old 10-01-2011, 03:58 PM   #17
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I will be putting a bungee in the trailer.... what i have now is i turn the handle to open the lock from either side and the lock will stay stuck in the open position..... i give it a tap with a small hammer and it will then release..... one of these days my luck will run out LOL
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:37 AM   #18
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Since my Bargeman lock will close but not lock, I added another small lock about a foot above the handle. It cost 5 or 6 bucks and has worked well for about 5 years now. These cabinet locks are available in most hardware stores and it leaves your original lock in place and was easy to install.
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:09 PM   #19
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Bargman L400 ?

I've been following this thread and I have handle problems on my Triple E Surf Side as the photos show. Can members who know handle models by sight confirm that mine is a Bargman L400 or, if not, tell me what it is?
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Old 10-02-2011, 12:19 PM   #20
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I've been using a bungee for years now as insurance. When i close the door I hook one end to a handle of a cupboard under the gaucho bench, strech it to hook in the open and of the lock mechanism where the striker comes out. Then holding the handle open, I gently close the door and realease the handle. Then I lock it. Sometimes this insurance has paid off. Twice on the long trip home across Labrador I found the door open and unlatched (bust still locked). Makes me nervous but it does seem to work.
Alan
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Old 10-02-2011, 01:24 PM   #21
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Can members who know handle models by sight confirm that mine is a Bargman L400....
it is.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:27 PM   #22
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Bargman L400 Latch problems

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Originally Posted by Alan P. View Post
I've been following this thread and I have handle problems on my Triple E Surf Side as the photos show. Can members who know handle models by sight confirm that mine is a Bargman L400 or, if not, tell me what it is?
Yes Alan, you have a Bargman L400 lock. From the pictures, we can tell the latch is in very bad shape, so door slamming has cracked the door fiberglass around the lock. There is no use to change or repair the lock (if you can find one in good shape) because you have to repair the door first. You might as well do a little more fiberglass repair and fit a new lock you can find for about 50$ (Trimark). This will solve your problem for years at a fraction of the cost and I'm certain some people would be interested by your old lock for parts.
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:26 PM   #23
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Thanks both of you for confirmation that I have an L400.
The lock Martin J. recommended would appear to be much shorter and would involve filling the void somehow. I guess it makes sense to go to a more modern lock, but I have no personal experience with fiberglass repairs. I had some professional fiberglass repairs done a couple of years ago part of which involved removing the two worn door hinges and replacing them with 3 new ones. Very expensive and they did not position the door correctly. The door was positioned to close to the hinge side of the opening. The striker is not close enough to the striker plate and on rough roads striker ends up on the outside of the striker plate. On these occasions only the bungee holds the door closed. The door is also loose at the bottom - seems to have lost its curve. Anybody know if that curve can somehow be restored or if not can the space be closed up by building up fiberglass to make contact with the rubber. gasket. The threshold is pretty ratty too.
Anybody know any fiberglass specialist that is good and reasonably in the Ottawa area or not too far away?

Thanks for the advice,
Alan
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Old 10-03-2011, 06:27 AM   #24
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Bye Bye Bargmand L400, why and how

Hi Alan,
With the number of sailboats and motorboats at shore in Ottawa area, I'm certain you can find recommendations for a fiberglass specialist that can fix BOTH problems at once.
I suspect your door to be out of shape or your hinges to be the wrong size or out of ideal position. Door gasket may also need to be adressed. Most RV shops are likely to sub-contract their fiberglass work, which explains the high cost and poor results in my humble opinion.

Such technical repair It is likely to be expensive, because it is labour intensive, but with Bargman L400 locks getting so rare, price of spare parts is outragiously high: no matter what, unless you invest time to learn and a few tools, it will cost you a few hundred $ to get a door that fits and a lock that keeps it safely shut. You can likely bring your RV for an estimate, to reduce chances of poor fitting. I strongly suggest you look for marine composite and fiberglass repair specialist. Marinas, especially sailboat forums could be good sources of referals. I asked for help in a local sailboat forum. If you can't find using the sailboat resources, let me know. As soon as I have some response I will forward it to you by private mail.

Marine repairs as RV door repairs require excellent structural integrity and precision to last and work properly. Fiberglass repairs require far more time than material cost. The whole repair and finish operation would take a few days to be completed, one step at the time. Your door would need to be removed, hinges to be possibly repositionned, lock fitted. If you are a handy man who don't mind reading instruction manuals and documents posted on the Internet, you can possibly do part or all of the repair yourself. The tough part is really the finishing touch. Once you are satisfied with structural repairs and fitting, you can sub-contract the paint job to a local automotive body shop if you want perfect finish.

If you dare to attempt such repair yourself, or at least part of it, have a look at the other thread on this forum where I have posted clues on the material and tools to use. It requires more time and patience than anything else. It is quite rewarding too.
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