Bashed in front of Scamp - ideas to cover window hole? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 06-13-2016, 03:09 PM   #1
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Name: Holly
Trailer: Scamp 13'
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Bashed in front of Scamp - ideas to cover window hole?

So, my trailer came unhitched thanks to someone "helping" me hitch it up, and it ran up under my jeep bashing in the front and breaking the window. We popped the front back out, but it'll never be the same and a window won't likely fit well. Any suggestions to permanently cover/fill in and strengthen the hole? I also have to come up with a way to make the bunk bed usable again since it's now been weakened. Suggestions? I'm just sick and sad this happened, but trying to make the best of it.
Thanks.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:44 PM   #2
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Name: Darral
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If you want it done RIGHT, I would take it to a shop where they repair fiberglass boats. At LEAST they can help you strengthen it and make it to where you're comfortable with it again.

Were you using "chocks" when you were hooking up??
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Old 06-13-2016, 04:01 PM   #3
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OK, Holly, it is going to be OK. You would be amazed what can be fixed on a fibreglass trailer. There have been trailers that the roof collapsed due to snow load. They have been restored to a condition that it is difficult to tell that anything happened. Find a fiberglass boat shop that does fibreglass work. They can fix your trailer.

The front window will not be difficult to replace, once the fibreglass has been repaired.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:06 PM   #4
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They can repair the front wall and then even if it is not an absolute perfect contour for the window they can create a fiberglass ring plate that does have a matching contour and fair that ring into the shell for the window to mount into. These things can be dealt with in fiberglass repairs without it being a complete misfit. It is a lot more forgiving and adaptable compared to trying to repair a metal car. Just realize that a bit of compromising in the problem solving might be needed to restore it to good functionality.

Unfortunately this is the busiest season for boat repairs so it might take a while before the skilled people can get around to the job. Or then again they might have a cancellation spot open...
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Old 06-13-2016, 08:39 PM   #5
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First you have to understand the front window doesn't fit the front window opening on a Scamp. It is flexed and arched into the window opening. To repair you need a new window and rubber gasket. This has to come from Scamp If the front was only pushed in and areas cracked but the window opening is still intact and attached you need to put in a new window to get everything back in shape and then repair and reinforce the shell. Humpty Dumpty can be put back together again since unlike the old Humpty Dumpty you can work on both sides of the shell.
Start posting pictures so the extent of the damage can really be accessed.
One thing to remember about fiberglass structures they want to go back to their undamaged state so if you have all the pieces of the puzzle you can glue and reinforce it back together. Unlike bent sheet metal, it gets bent, stays bent and stretched all out of shape and extremely hard to make like new.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HollyB View Post
So, my trailer came unhitched thanks to someone "helping" me hitch it up, and it ran up under my jeep bashing in the front and breaking the window. We popped the front back out, but it'll never be the same and a window won't likely fit well. Any suggestions to permanently cover/fill in and strengthen the hole? I also have to come up with a way to make the bunk bed usable again since it's now been weakened. Suggestions? I'm just sick and sad this happened, but trying to make the best of it.
Thanks.
Will your insurance company not arrange for it to go to a boat repair shop or even allow you to take it back to Scamp for repair?
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:41 PM   #7
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Name: Holly
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I don't have insurance on it. It's a 1986 and not worth much.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:45 PM   #8
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Name: Darral
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You didnt answer my question above, but let me kindly suggest chocks when hooking or unhooking a trailer. They've saved me a few times.

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I don't have insurance on it. It's a 1986 and not worth much.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:09 PM   #9
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We have ours insured for what we paid for it (with a $1,000 deductible) for only $4 a month. It seemed like a good idea, and ours is a 1973.

Fiberglass is AMAZING, you can fix it or get it fixed, really! Paul fixed our rusted-through lawnmower body with fiberglass...he fixed over 80 holes in our 1973 amerigo, one was 2 x 3 feet! He added/taped a piece of fiberglass scrap inside the hole, glassed all around it, and backed it with 1/2" plywood, also fiberglassed to the shell and glassed over to hold it tight; it's like the original, but even seems stronger.

We became true fiberglass converts over the winter...you will be amazed at how well it will go as long as you keep at it, forge on, the only way out is forward, don't flinch, dive in...all that good stuff.

Wishing you the very

BEST
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:22 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by HollyB View Post
... Any suggestions to permanently cover/fill in and strengthen the hole? ...
I could not help but notice that most of the replies did not really address your question, i.e. how to permanently cover/fill in the hole. It sounds like you have no interest in replacing the window or restoring it to it's (near) pre-collision state.

Whether you do or don't want to replace the window, I would think that photos of the damage would help people give better advice.

How the accident occurred is a separate topic that perhaps you don't need or want to go into here.
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Old 06-15-2016, 02:25 AM   #11
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Thought I said how we filled in a 2 x 3 foot holein the side of our trailer: we got a flat piece of fiberglass (cut out of a bathroom wall) and cut it smaller than the hole. We taped it in and began fiberglassing around it layer by layer. As it became more solid, we took the tape off and filled in those gaps as well.

We faired it on the outside, and re-fiberglassed it again where it was really too low. Again, faired (using Bondo Hair product, a fiberglass putty kind of stuff) and kept fairing and sanding until it was absolutely smooth. Then we washed it with dish detergent and soap, then wiped it down with acetone. Then we carefully and thinly primered it with Rustoleum Marine Paint (white) and then again, sanded with super fine sandpaper (1000 grit). Wiped with a tack cloth. Then put two coats of white Rustoleum Marine enamel over it, using a small, hot-dog foam roller, rolling until all bubbles were popped. Sanded between coats. We were painting the whole trailer anyway, with this paint and primer, so it blended in very well, being good at self-levelling plus Paul is nearly obsessive with detail. INSIDE the trailer, we again worked on it, filling the low spots, sanding, fairing until it was smooth.

If we hadn't had the big piece of extra fiberglass, we'd have BACKED the hole with a piece of thin plywood paneling (probably on the inside) holding it in place with tape and covered with waxed paper OR simply incorporating the ply into the patch, using NO waxed paper and working over the ply inside and out until it was flush on the outside and smooth on the inside. We'd have layered the fiberglass "onto" the waxed paper layer by layer, using mat cloth and epoxy resin. We'd have kept at it until it was flush on the outside, taking the tape off and working on any gaps afterwards.

In many places, the inside of our trailer (where there are large flat panels someone (maybe the manufacturer) fiberglassed large plywood panels over the shell. INSIDE. Then that panel becomes quite strong and even rigid.

Anyway, that's how we did it. There are MANY YouTube videos showing how to do fiberglassing, a few hours spent watching them is a good education in it.

We would INSTANTLY be willing to work with fiberglass to repair the shell of our trailer; it's easier than it seems, it goes well, if you make a mistake, just sand it or cut it away and start again. You can use the broken bits and fiberglass over them, around them, reusing them to save on materials...

It takes a lot of sanding and prep, it takes a lot of material and money for the products, but in the end, Paul was able to fill over 80 holes to the point where they are literally invisible. We feel the trailer is much stronger now, all the big cracks radiating from around the doorway are filled and solid, the sideways cracks along the body are filled, everywhere a metal item was removed (logos, vents, etc) are all filled and totally flush with the skin...and thicker inside for reinforcement. He fiberglassed in three areas of thin plywood inside for reinforcement, and it is super.

Use a mask when sanding...find out more about polyester resin online or from someone who's done it.

Epoxy resin is pricier, I hear, but it worked up very nicely and you can also look at the thread here on FGRV under SEARCH: Fear of Fiberglassing. The advice was priceless!
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Old 06-15-2016, 05:23 AM   #12
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Old 06-15-2016, 09:47 AM   #13
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Just a Thought

Holly,

When we ordered our Std. 13 Scamp last fall, we elected not to have a front window. Our old 13 had a front window and rock shield, we never ever removed the rock shield. Our new 13 with bunks looks much more spacious without the window and curtains.

It sounds like your 13 is easy project for an experienced technician.

BobH.
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:20 AM   #14
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Thanks, Donna D. That's better!
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