Battery Connections - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-18-2007, 06:52 AM   #15
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Because you said your air conditioner wasn't plugged in and you were wearing long pants:

Quote:
Since nothing is turned on, the AC is not plugged in, and I don't believe there are any shorts
:-)
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Old 05-18-2007, 07:47 AM   #16
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Tha AC, as in.. the power cord, silly! Alternating Current...

and I have a friend who would wear shorts in Alaska in the dead of winter...HE would have AC ....
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Old 05-18-2007, 04:13 PM   #17
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OOPSIE, I messed up A/C was NOT mentioned! Whatever was I thinkin about!!!
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Old 05-18-2007, 07:36 PM   #18
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Doug, Maybe you picked up on the AC at post #5....Benny
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Old 05-18-2007, 09:48 PM   #19
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Final Resolution! Reace confirmed that there is indeed a spark - the propane detector draws enough current to trigger a spark. Unfortunately, the propane detector must be installed without a switch. So, my choices were either (1) ignore the spark (which I'm sure most people do, but all the advice about not having sparks near the battery scared me away from this), or (2) remove the fuse for the circuit that the detector was on. I did (2) and everything is now fine. I have all my limbs, my eyesight, and a trailer ready to go after 7.5 months of winter.

Given all the responses and lack of similar problems for others, I suspect that very few people actually disconnect their battery in winter.
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Old 05-19-2007, 10:19 AM   #20
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Hi I've done a number of trailer renos, and I have always hatred the "spark" at battery connect/disconnect since A horrible accident to a high school chum during a car boost. My solution is shown in the photo link below.

http://good-times.webshots.com/photo/25692...052473095msBkeC

To the upper right of my battery box, you can see a red handle of the keyed 12 volt swith I use. When I wish to disconnect or remove the battery, I first remove this key. I can then work in complete safety and comfort, no sparks. By the way, the tow vehicle cannot be connected either.

Vic
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