Battery/Electrical - Trillium 1300 '74 - Fiberglass RV
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Old 03-23-2009, 02:59 PM   #1
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Trailer: Trillium 13 ft
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Hi Everyone,
I've been visiting this site over the last few weeks as I looked for more info before purchasing a trailer.

This weekend I picked up our "new" (1974) Trillium 1300. It has a 3/way fridge, a light over the sink, and another light (I believe 12v) stuck on the side of the cabinet above the stove I'm presuming this last light is not stock.

I want to install a deep cycle battery in the trailer and there appears to be some wiring for this under the front bunk.

Is this the stock placement of the battery? or were these Trilliums not designed for an internal battery? It looks like an ok spot once a put a bracket in there as it appears it would be ventilated by the vents behind the fridge. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance, Mark
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Old 03-23-2009, 03:50 PM   #2
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Trailer: 1981 Trillium 5500
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that was the location in my 76 13 footer, on the road side under the front bunk where the main connection cable came in
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:30 PM   #3
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Trailer: 2007 Escape A 17 ft
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My '76 Trillium had a battery tiedown in the drivers-side dinette seat (at the rear). Doubt it was stock, as the wiring and battery tiedown itself were pretty shoddy. I've scrounged a basic 10AH sealed lead acid battery to get us through this summer that I've mounted in the same place (with better hardware), but the long-term plan is to mount a proper deep cycle battery to the tongue, next to the propane tank.

This forum has a great selection of photos showing what other people have done. In particular, I like Booker's setup, which has a slightly 'sunken' battery tray.
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Old 03-23-2009, 04:39 PM   #4
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Trailer: 1976 Trillium 13 ft
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Quote:
Is this the stock placement of the battery? or were these Trilliums not designed for an internal battery? It looks like an ok spot once a put a bracket in there as it appears it would be ventilated by the vents behind the fridge. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance, Mark

I think in most cases (as was ours), there was no "Stock Battery", according to the manual, 12volt power was to come from the car.

Some people have installed sealed batteries inside.

I don't know if I would trust the ventilation behind the fridge, as I believe that the fridge compartment is to be sealed off from the inside of the trailer.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:27 PM   #5
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It also depends on your power needs. If you're using a 3-way fridge on propane mode while off the grid, and perhaps change your light bulbs to LEDs, you can get by with a smaller battery. That's what we did - got ourselves a sealed 48AH battery that we tucked in the wasted little angled corner in the passenger side dinette seat at the rear, near the closet. Also probably helps balance out the weight a bit. We save the space in the driver side dinette seat for a small water tank and some water connections.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:37 PM   #6
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Trailer: 1974 Boler 13 ft (Neonex/Winnipeg)
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Another consideration: Is the flame that heats the ammonia to run the refrigerator in the vented compartment you mention (which is supposed to be sealed off from the inside of the camper but in my experience is not always done all that well).

If so, I'm not sure I'd want a battery venting hydrogen gas (that's what they vent, right?) into the same compartment.

Raya
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:48 PM   #7
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Trailer: 1975 Trillium 13 ft / Chevy Astrovan
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Our "new to us" Trill came with the battery mounted on the tongue. It's a handy location.
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:36 PM   #8
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Trailer: 1978 Trillium 13 ft
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I also just purchased a "new" 1300 '73 trillium and is wanting to hook up a battery for dry camping. What should I be looking for to see if my camper has existing connections to the system for a battery.

Also I have two wires coming off of the rear of the inverter (red and white) the white is grounded to the side of the inverter box and the red has what looks like a broken end of an inline fuse connection. Does any oner know what it is from or where it goes to.
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Old 07-13-2009, 07:21 PM   #9
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Also I have two wires coming off of the rear of the inverter (red and white) "Do you mean converter?"
the white is grounded to the side of the inverter box and the red has what looks like a broken end of an inline fuse connection. Does any one know what it is from or where it goes to." white to ground is common,if coming from converter the red is probably a "+" lead for your shore power, or if equipped with a charging style converter, then it would be a battery "+" "
[/quote]

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Old 07-16-2009, 03:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Also I have two wires coming off of the rear of the inverter (red and white) "Do you mean converter?"
the white is grounded to the side of the inverter box and the red has what looks like a broken end of an inline fuse connection. Does any one know what it is from or where it goes to." white to ground is common,if coming from converter the red is probably a "+" lead for your shore power, or if equipped with a charging style converter, then it would be a battery "+" "


Joe
Yes I do mean a converter. I finally have all of the lights working (after GM finally got the
factory 7 pin working on the truck - they purposly leave out parts) including the power supply to the trailer. I will be good for the weekend and then will look into seeing if there is a charge for hookinga battery up. I will keep you posted. thanks.
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:31 PM   #11
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Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
Posts: 180
Quote:
Hi Everyone,
I've been visiting this site over the last few weeks as I looked for more info before purchasing a trailer.

This weekend I picked up our "new" (1974) Trillium 1300. It has a 3/way fridge, a light over the sink, and another light (I believe 12v) stuck on the side of the cabinet above the stove I'm presuming this last light is not stock.

I want to install a deep cycle battery in the trailer and there appears to be some wiring for this under the front bunk.

Is this the stock placement of the battery? or were these Trilliums not designed for an internal battery? It looks like an ok spot once a put a bracket in there as it appears it would be ventilated by the vents behind the fridge. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance, Mark
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:45 PM   #12
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Trailer: 1979 Layton 22 ft / 2004 Ram-Cummins 2500 2wd
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Above all NEVER put a battery where there is an open flame or sparks! The hydrogen gas given off, along with oxygen, in the perfect proportions (due to electrolysis of water) , is highly explosive. It could, if ignited, blow the doors off your fridge compartment, and/or cause serious injury. The best spot for your battery will be in a properly vented battery box, on the tongue. If you mount your battery at the rear, you could upset the tongue loading, and cause your trailer to be like the tail wagging the dog. Better to be a little tongue heavy, than tail heavy and find yourself in the ditch. Some manufacturers even advise refilling your forward-mounted fresh-water tank to offset full, rear-mounted grey and black water tanks, on the way back home.
These later statements may not apply to you, but the first one definitely does. You don't want no bang!
I speak from experience, having ( when I was young and didn't know these things) caused a large spark near a battery that was on charge. It blew up in my face. I was extremely lucky, and didn't suffer any ill effects. But I learned my lesson!
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Old 07-16-2009, 06:53 PM   #13
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Trailer: 78 Trillium 13 ft / 2003 F150
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Quote:
Above all NEVER put a battery where there is an open flame or sparks!
Lloyd, how right you are. The best place for the battery is on the tongue of the trailer, out of the living space.
It is not a difficult project. Made my box bracket out of some aluminum angle that was laying around.
The only tools used were hack saw, vise, files, cordless drill and wrenches. No worries about hydrogen
accumulation. Larry H


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