Battery power for an Atwood Furnace

[Raya]

I guess I should stop writing today! It was brought to my attention that in an attempt to make things simpler and less wordy, that I may have made things more confusing

When I was explaining how to calculate the number of amp-hours that Mac would be taking out of his battery, I used the single word "amps."

For example, I said, for a light bulb that draws 4 amps (per hour), "If you use that light for 6 hours, then 4 amps times 6 hours is 24 amps. If you have a 48 amp battery, you will have used half the amps stored in it."

However, I should have said amp hours. As in "24 amp-hours."

I'm sorry if this confused anyone. I was trying to keep the concept simple, and in doing apparently made it more confusing. I will also go back and edit that post (but I figured most people actively reading will have gone past it already and might not go back but instead just stay confused).

Raya

[ThomasE]

Mac if you have a test light or volt meter, you can check the plug end at the vehicle with the ignition off to see if there is voltage. When I wired my truck I put in a relay triggered by the accessory circuit so there is no power back to the trailer unless I have my key in the ignition in the ACC position thereby preventing the trailer from draining the truck battery. If you see voltage, it wouldn't be hard to add a relay so no power is supplied unless your car is on.

[Mac B]

ha ha... I find all this funny, since I am probably the densest person you could ever try to explain all this to. To get it straight, I will just call my local RV repair place and get him to explain it to me, and tell me what I need to get to make sure I don't freeze my duff off with!

many thanks for your effort!

I guess I should stop writing today! It was brought to my attention that in an attempt to make things simpler and less wordy, that I may have made things more confusing

When I was explaining how to calculate the number of amp-hours that Mac would be taking out of his battery, I used the single word "amps."

For example, I said, for a light bulb that draws 4 amps (per hour), "If you use that light for 6 hours, then 4 amps times 6 hours is 24 amps. If you have a 48 amp battery, you will have used half the amps stored in it."

However, I should have said amp hours. As in "24 amp-hours."

I'm sorry if this confused anyone. I was trying to keep the concept simple, and in doing apparently made it more confusing. I will also go back and edit that post (but I figured most people actively reading will have gone past it already and might not go back but instead just stay confused).

Raya

[Mac B]

I love the idea of a WAVE 6 for extreme cold. It looks like a must have on a trip to Alaska! thanks

let's see...
-extra battery
-generator
-WAVE 6
-extra propane
-bottle of brandy...

I'll be as snug as a bug in a rug....

Mac, you might consider installing a Cat heater. I have a WAVE 6 in mine, I use it in near freezing temps and it does the trick nicely.. no fan, no draw. Observe proper ventilation rules.. you will be more than stylin in the 14.

However, some folks don't like them because of the venting thing. If you are considering Alaska, against my usual advise of solar and low to no draw items... I think your generator idea is the best one. You will not be in a position to tuff it out in a a sleeping bag for a nite or two.. lack of heat could be a very serious matter for your health there.. not just an inconvenience and a quaint situation.

Certainly, a new battery is in your future. It will absolutely need to be in tip top shape for this trip. Don't risk it.. get the genny.

[Gina D.]

I am not familiar with Alaska conditions in June (Or any month for that matter) but I suspect even tho its spring and summer down here.. it is still very cold there.

Keep in mind two things about a cat heater.

1. You MUST have proper ventilation or they will suck up every molecule of oxygen in your rig. A window cracked open a couple inches can do the trick for the low setting, more for higher ones.

The problem there can be, in sub freezing temps, the open window negates the heating ability of the heater. I know from personal experience on a 14 degree nite. It couldn't keep up on the "high" setting when I vented correctly. I ended up being warmer under sleeping bag, every blanket and towel I had with the windows closed and heater off. It wasn't much more warm, and I had a miserable nite. That was in my 13 footer, and I didn't have a furnace.

2. Condensation, condensation, condensation! If it is really damp where you are going, and the heater is at full tilt, you will have a virtual rain shower in the glass interior of the Burro.

I am currently in dry Arizona, out in the desert where it can get downright bone chilling cold at nite. But its dry. The heater is on right now as a matter of fact. The Wave does great here as it only gets down to the mid 30s or so. An open window is not an issue, and there certainly is not a condensation problem. My dogs have sweaters they wear at nite, I have great bedding and I don't sleep with the heater on.

If I have the juice, I prefer the furnace, its a more even heat, not much condensation and is safer.. BUT, since I boondock most of the time, the Wave heater is an essential bit of equipment in here. Again, for your trip, I would suggest you rely on the furnace and find the best way to do so.

[Mac B]

arrugh! just when I thought it was logical solution. Thanks for the warning. Amazing what I am learning about all these contraptions.

I am not familiar with Alaska conditions in June (Or any month for that matter) but I suspect even tho its spring and summer down here.. it is still very cold there.

Keep in mind two things about a cat heater.

1. You MUST have proper ventilation or they will suck up every molecule of oxygen in your rig. A window cracked open a couple inches can do the trick for the low setting, more for higher ones.

The problem there can be, in sub freezing temps, the open window negates the heating ability of the heater. I know from personal experience on a 14 degree nite. It couldn't keep up on the "high" setting when I vented correctly. I ended up being warmer under sleeping bag, every blanket and towel I had with the windows closed and heater off. It wasn't much more warm, and I had a miserable nite. That was in my 13 footer, and I didn't have a furnace.

2. Condensation, condensation, condensation! If it is really damp where you are going, and the heater is at full tilt, you will have a virtual rain shower in the glass interior of the Burro.

I am currently in dry Arizona, out in the desert where it can get downright bone chilling cold at nite. But its dry. The heater is on right now as a matter of fact. The Wave does great here as it only gets down to the mid 30s or so. An open window is not an issue, and there certainly is not a condensation problem. My dogs have sweaters they wear at nite, I have great bedding and I don't sleep with the heater on.

If I have the juice, I prefer the furnace, its a more even heat, not much condensation and is safer.. BUT, since I boondock most of the time, the Wave heater is an essential bit of equipment in here. Again, for your trip, I would suggest you rely on the furnace and find the best way to do so.

[Raya]

Well okay, here are two more ideas, from opposite ends of the spectrum.

1) Seek out an older, gravity style RV furnace. These came in many of the 1970s campers (eggs, truck campers, pop-ups, etc.), and they use NO electrical power at all. No power draw, no fan noise. They are vented, so no condensation. And they don't suck up your oxygen. I have no idea why these are no longer made, as they work well. (I had a slightly larger one in a cabin.) Probable cost: Less than $200





2) A brand-new, shiny, I-can-see-the-cozy-flame, Sig P9000 propane marine cabin heater. Yes, it's $800, but heck, you were about to buy a special battery bank, fancy charger, and a generator! This has an *optional* fan. So you can run it with no fan (i.e. no power). Also, it's vented, so no condensation/oxygen worries.

Now, couple of factors:
1) It has a chimney. However it's flexible and there are ways to get around leakage (they are used on boats, normally). I believe it is possible to run it out a side wall as long as it still goes up (or, the roof, which is typical on a boat).

2) This would protrude from the wall a bit (I think about 9").

3) These are relatively new, so I have not used one. However, I have used a Sigmar diesel heater (on a boat), and the workmanship was quite good. It also had the cozy flame factor (not to be underestimated, in my opinion), and an optional (and virtually never used) fan.





Raya

[Daniel V.]

Another one to add to the pile...

This one claims low power draw, safe venting, high efficiency, and it has a thermostat.

"THE PLATINUM CAT utilizes a power vent system which exhausts all combustion by-products to the outside of the living area, which automatically replace oxygen used for combustion. The vent system prevents buildup of unhealthy indoor air pollution and eliminates any chance of accidental asphyxiation"

http://www.ventedcatheater.com

[Mac B]

these are all great ideas for heating... I have studies a bit about diesel heating, as I would love to build a diesel expedition vehicle with all diesel appliances... but cost for cost, it's hard to beat what I have now.

I will look at the propane 'see the flame' heater... that sounds awesome, but I think that for me, the solution is to have an extra battery, and maybe set them up as duel, if they are both the same age and power, etc. and have about a 1,000 watt generator. After all, Alaska will be an adventure, but I seriously doubt if I will go too far from the beaten path.

I will be looking for an old gravity style furnace though. Very interesting!!

While you're in Arizona, don't miss Bisbee & Douglas. My mother was born and raised in that area. Also, the area around Greer brings back memories. I haven't been back since I was a kid. One of my goals is to return!!!

Well okay, here are two more ideas, from opposite ends of the spectrum.

1) Seek out an older, gravity style RV furnace. These came in many of the 1970s campers (eggs, truck campers, pop-ups, etc.), and they use NO electrical power at all. No power draw, no fan noise. They are vented, so no condensation. And they don't suck up your oxygen. I have no idea why these are no longer made, as they work well. (I had a slightly larger one in a cabin.) Probable cost: Less than $200


Attachment 25320


2) A brand-new, shiny, I-can-see-the-cozy-flame, Sig P9000 propane marine cabin heater. Yes, it's $800, but heck, you were about to buy a special battery bank, fancy charger, and a generator! This has an *optional* fan. So you can run it with no fan (i.e. no power). Also, it's vented, so no condensation/oxygen worries.

Now, couple of factors:
1) It has a chimney. However it's flexible and there are ways to get around leakage (they are used on boats, normally). I believe it is possible to run it out a side wall as long as it still goes up (or, the roof, which is typical on a boat).

2) This would protrude from the wall a bit (I think about 9").

3) These are relatively new, so I have not used one. However, I have used a Sigmar diesel heater (on a boat), and the workmanship was quite good. It also had the cozy flame factor (not to be underestimated, in my opinion), and an optional (and virtually never used) fan.


Attachment 25319


Raya

[Mac B]

this really is incredible!! I wonder what the cost is... looks like it's something really new.
thanks for the link!

Another one to add to the pile...

This one claims low power draw, safe venting, high efficiency, and it has a thermostat.

"THE PLATINUM CAT utilizes a power vent system which exhausts all combustion by-products to the outside of the living area, which automatically replace oxygen used for combustion. The vent system prevents buildup of unhealthy indoor air pollution and eliminates any chance of accidental asphyxiation"

http://www.ventedcatheater.com