Best location for a ground - Fiberglass RV


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Old 11-16-2010, 11:48 PM   #1
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Best location for a ground

I'm in the process of wireing my trailer from scratch and have a question. I understand the 110 service and have that almost done, but I'm new to 12V. I have made up a wireing diagram, but I'm not sure where the best place to put the ground. Should I have one at the battery, or would one be better at the converter? Should it be in the line that goes from the conveter to the battery? I've looked at the scamp wiring diagram, but didn't see the location of ground on it.

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Old 11-17-2010, 12:34 AM   #2
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Normal practice is to have a dedicated ground wire for all 12V connections. Do not use a chassis ground. You should have a fusebox or panel for the accesories. There should be a ground connection that connects to the negative pole of the battery.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:59 AM   #3
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The negative connection is simply another wire. Old habits die hard so it's often called "ground".
The real ground is the green wire in the 120 circuit. It should be connected to the frame of the trailer close to where the cord enters the trailer. There should be no other connections to the trailer frame other than that single connection.
Trailers use conventional house wiring colors. White is the negative and black is the positive. Other colors go to brake/turn lights, back up lights, brakes, and running lights. Those are pretty well documented in the Scamp schematic.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:01 AM   #4
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OK, just so I get this correct. I meant the ground that is put on the trailer frame. It looks like there is 3 different electrical systems going on. The 110, which does not need to be grounded to the frame. The pig tail from the car, which does need to be grounded to the frame? The 12 volt coming from the panel, which is tied into the battery and 110. Does this need to be grounded to the trailer framie, or can it use the same one as the pig tail, since it will be connected to the negative battery connection and this is also were the pig tail is grounded, I think.
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Old 11-17-2010, 09:48 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyH View Post
OK, just so I get this correct. I meant the ground that is put on the trailer frame. It looks like there is 3 different electrical systems going on. The 110, which does not need to be grounded to the frame. The pig tail from the car, which does need to be grounded to the frame? The 12 volt coming from the panel, which is tied into the battery and 110. Does this need to be grounded to the trailer framie, or can it use the same one as the pig tail, since it will be connected to the negative battery connection and this is also were the pig tail is grounded, I think.
The 120v ground should be connected to the trailer frame to provide protection against a fault between the hot & frame. Without the ground connection a short between the 120v wiring & the frame would create the risk of a shock to the user to the earth when connected to shore power.
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Old 11-17-2010, 10:47 AM   #6
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Thanks for making it clear.
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Old 11-17-2010, 05:10 PM   #7
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Camper Wiring and GROUND

There is always a difference of opinion when it comes to the wiring of our campers so please do not take suggestions lightly as we all have our own preferences and your safety is of the utmost importance so B4 you complete the job, B sure to check with the manufacture to insure you have completed the wiring in accordance with their instructions. Call them and/or check with a camper outlet such as Camping World.

Be sure to obtain one of those AC Circuit checkers and use it to check the campground power B4 you connect the camper (C Below). Once that circuit checks OK then connect your camper and check the inside receptacle to insure your camper is wired (120VAC) OK.

Electrical Receptacle Tester with GFCI Diagnosis

Should you not do this and by some chance have a hot wire to the frame, you could shock yourself should you touch the frame while standing outside on the earth.

On our Scamp 5R: The converter AC Side has a wire going from the ground to the chassis (Frame). It also has a wire on the DC side from the White wire to the frame. C the last web site at the very bottom for pictures and instructions.

The electric brakes has a wire from one side of the connection to the frame and the other wire being the DC Power. As you can see, this unit uses the frame as a ground on both the AC and DC. It also shows that you MUST have a good ground on the tow vehicle to the Whitw Wire in the receptacle and also a good Ground on the camper, White wire to Frame or your electric brakes may not work. GROUND is a major problem on all trailers and why their running lights donít work. Pay attention to good grounding and you will have less problems in the future.

The Scamp Wiring diagram: See page 13 and the other pages it references.
http://www.scamptrailers.com/Portals...nersManual.pdf

It shows all AC returns connected together (Green dotted line) and then does not reflect a wire being connected to the frame.

It shows all DC returns connected together (White) and then does not reflect a wire being connected to the frame.

It shows the running lights and all internal DC items sharing the (White) being used as the return (Ground) and does not show a hard wire to ground.

White to Frame: Here is where the White Wire is connected to the frame:

Running lights use the White Wire attached to the chassis in the tow vehicle. This means the chassis of the camper is attached to the tow vehicle ground also when you drop the hitch to the tow vehicle ball. That will apply frame ground on to the camper frame. It is not a good ground because it can come and go at times depending on the physical contact between the hitch components.

Look at the following as it goes in-depth and has a picture of the GROUNDING to the FRAME. John B on another site did an outstanding job of explaining the wiring and the GROUND.

Camper Grounding to Prevent Electrical Schock - Sunline Coach Owner's Club

Happy wiring.
DR
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:04 PM   #8
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Darwin, would you suggest making making an adapter for the AC circuit checker as the circuit checker is for a 15/20 amp circuit whereas we generally use the 30 amp circuit. In other words, could the 15/20 amp circuit test okay while the 30 amp circuit may have a problem?
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:34 PM   #9
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Thanks for the great comments. So far I'm working on the 12v light/120v socket combination and the first one works on battery or 120v. So I think I have a handle on what to do. There was so much different information on the grounding I was a little confused. I think with all these replies I can figure out what needs to be done. I may have additional questions as I get to the pig tail and brakes.
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Old 11-17-2010, 06:41 PM   #10
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Just to clarify, the socket does not work on 12v battery power, but the 12v lights work on either.
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Old 11-17-2010, 08:40 PM   #11
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I am not Darwin, but I bought an adapter that is 30a male rv to 15a female and plug the tester into that and test the outlet in the campground box.
( when I remember to do it LOL )

Bill K

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Originally Posted by Laura & Rick View Post
Darwin, would you suggest making making an adapter for the AC circuit checker as the circuit checker is for a 15/20 amp circuit whereas we generally use the 30 amp circuit. In other words, could the 15/20 amp circuit test okay while the 30 amp circuit may have a problem?
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Old 11-18-2010, 09:30 AM   #12
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Bill is right on. You can purchase the adapter at Walmart.
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