Best rust inhibiting paint. - Fiberglass RV


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Old 09-28-2011, 01:12 PM   #1
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Name: Clayton
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Best rust inhibiting paint.

I could have sworn I read a thread about this before but I can't locate it after a ton of searching.

Can anyone tell me a good (black) rust inhibiting paint to use on our Boler frame?

I want to try and make the frame look better but won't be doing an egg-off-frame job. I will likely just scrape off the worst of it and wash/clean off the rest underneath and then paint over.

Any suggestions? (please don't say rustoleum! I have heard bad things about that!)

Thanks!
Clayton
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:20 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calindor View Post
I could have sworn I read a thread about this before but I can't locate it after a ton of searching.

Can anyone tell me a good (black) rust inhibiting paint to use on our Boler frame?

I want to try and make the frame look better but won't be doing an egg-off-frame job. I will likely just scrape off the worst of it and wash/clean off the rest underneath and then paint over.

Any suggestions? (please don't say rustoleum! I have heard bad things about that!)

Thanks!
Clayton
You should hear from someone tha has good luck with Rustoleum.
Use the Rustoleum Heavy Rust Primer and finish it with Rustoleum black and you should have no problems.
John
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Old 09-28-2011, 01:58 PM   #3
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We use white spray rustoleum and spray the entire bottom of our trailer. I don't worry too much about life because I respray every year. We have found that since we travel so much that leading surfaces get sand blasted and need repainting. I probably do the whole job in an hour.

I had considered using Herculiner truck bed paint but not this year.
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Old 09-28-2011, 02:26 PM   #4
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A one and done solution is POR-15. You can use other products, over and over and over, year after year. Or, you can use a one and done product.

There's a reason hot rodders who spend thousands of dollars building beautiful rides, use POR-15!
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:11 PM   #5
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I suggest you add a little step in your process: Instead of just scraping and paint, use a rust converter product to prevent rust to lift your new finish. Got Rust? Try a Rust Converter. If not converted, rust will come back, even under the best coating. Rust inhibitor paint will slow down the process but won't stop it. Any trace of rust on bare metal will eventually lift the paint if not converted.

As you pointed out, the best protection of the frame is the egg-off frame job (ideal with the POR-15 "once and for all" plan), but using the rust converter will definitely be a big step up in that direction.

Just a little advise: rust inhibitor and metal primers need to be applied in a properly ventilated area. Metal primer fumes, even outdoor can make you feel sick. Working under the RV may require that you use a protective mask designed for volatile organic fumes.
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:26 PM   #6
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RustCap. WAY better than Rustoleum.
I painted two parts of a trailer, the body with RustCap, post with Rustoleum. Four years later the post was solid rust, body had bits of rust here and there ( and I had not prepped the surface much on either.)
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Old 09-28-2011, 05:33 PM   #7
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Lots of good advice. Thanks everyone.

I *JUST* got a GREAT deal on a compressor so I ended up buying a sand blaster attachment. I figure I will blast at LEAST the A-frame now that I have this.

I can only assume the same paints would be good to use in case I don't get all the rust.

Thanks again!
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:58 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by calindor View Post
Lots of good advice. Thanks everyone.

I *JUST* got a GREAT deal on a compressor so I ended up buying a sand blaster attachment. I figure I will blast at LEAST the A-frame now that I have this.

I can only assume the same paints would be good to use in case I don't get all the rust.

Thanks again!
Just try not to blast the VIN number off the tongue if that happens to be where it is....
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:12 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by calindor View Post
I could have sworn I read a thread about this before but I can't locate it after a ton of searching.

Can anyone tell me a good (black) rust inhibiting paint to use on our Boler frame?

I want to try and make the frame look better but won't be doing an egg-off-frame job. I will likely just scrape off the worst of it and wash/clean off the rest underneath and then paint over.

Any suggestions? (please don't say rustoleum! I have heard bad things about that!)

Thanks!
Clayton
POR-15 is a well liked product and does a good job, but it is both expensive and tedious.
Wire brush the frame, wipe it down with phosphoric acid,then rinse with a sponge, spray with a a good rubberized undercoating.
The phosphoric acid will assure and excellent result, but a good result can be had without it. Cheap easy and effective. On the tongue and bumper we used a brush-on black enamel.
I used a Duplicolor rattle-can spray bedliner on the front bumper of my truck with fantastic results and, so far, years of durability. That would be great on your frame and tongue and it adheres to all sorts of surfaces without primer.
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:40 AM   #10
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Ospho, available at most hardware stores, is good rust converter, changing iron oxide to iron phosphate. Most of the converters, such as Ospho contain some kind of acid, so on non-rusted metal they act as an etchant which provides better adhesion for the primer or paint.

Last year I used Ospho on a rebuild of my utility trailer, which is and always has been stored outdoors. Light sand blasting to remove heavy rust; appied Ospho; used no primer; two coats of Rustoleum industrial enamel. Today no rust.

This stuff is good to have around. If you get some dings that begin to rust, a quick dab will stop it. A little touch up paint........good as new.

This recommendation is based on personal experience. I have no connection with Skybright Co, the manufacturer.

Clif
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Old 09-29-2011, 11:57 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by calindor View Post
I *JUST* got a GREAT deal on a compressor so I ended up buying a sand blaster attachment. I figure I will blast at LEAST the A-frame now that I have this.
Be sure and wear a GOOD dust mask or respirator. Beware of silicosis!

That kind of blaster did you get, siphon or pressure? Check the air demand on the blaster. They use lots of it. You may have to wait for your compressor to catch up once in a while.

Also, down here in south Louisiana we used to be able to buy blasting sand by the bag. Now they want you to buy a pallet. NOT! For small jobs you can get away with play sand from the home store, but you may have to screen it, window screen will do, and possibly jump a size on your blaster nozzle.

Interesting story. I did some online research on using walnut shell as a non-distructive blasting agent as I can get broken bags of that from the oil field where it is used to plug porous formations and I had heard it could be used for blasting. It turns out that it's used for blasting the hulls of submarines and aircraft carriers, as it removes the top coating but left the expensive undercoatings intact.

Per my last post Ospho or some other rust converter will handle any of those small rust spots that are left. Do it right and make the job count.

Clif
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Old 09-29-2011, 09:45 PM   #12
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por 15 is the greatest.

Por 15 is the best there is. I have built many hot rods and always have done the frame in it. You brush it on, and when it dries it looks like you sprayed it on. And I have never seen it come off.
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Old 09-29-2011, 10:55 PM   #13
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Hey Clif,

Silicosis... asbestosis... halitosis... notice that nothing good ends with "osis"? =) Yeah, I have a good mask. Same one I use for doing fiberglass work... good for VOC's and all, so it's a bit of overkill but better than nothing!

I got a siphon blaster... I wanted that so I could get in the small places and not worry about a gravity feed from the top... upside down etc... it's not working so well though. It could be the blasting medium I am using... will try to bump up to the next size nozzle before I make up my mind about it. The blaster was actually working better at 40psi than it was at 90!

Clayton

Quote:
Originally Posted by The Minimalist View Post
Be sure and wear a GOOD dust mask or respirator. Beware of silicosis!

That kind of blaster did you get, siphon or pressure? Check the air demand on the blaster. They use lots of it. You may have to wait for your compressor to catch up once in a while.

Also, down here in south Louisiana we used to be able to buy blasting sand by the bag. Now they want you to buy a pallet. NOT! For small jobs you can get away with play sand from the home store, but you may have to screen it, window screen will do, and possibly jump a size on your blaster nozzle.

Interesting story. I did some online research on using walnut shell as a non-distructive blasting agent as I can get broken bags of that from the oil field where it is used to plug porous formations and I had heard it could be used for blasting. It turns out that it's used for blasting the hulls of submarines and aircraft carriers, as it removes the top coating but left the expensive undercoatings intact.

Per my last post Ospho or some other rust converter will handle any of those small rust spots that are left. Do it right and make the job count.

Clif
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Old 10-03-2011, 11:26 AM   #14
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gary,

I have only recently started testing por 15. I am wondering if you have used it on any vehicles which were subsequently subjected to winter driving and road salt?
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