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12-16-2011, 11:17 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Name: John
Trailer: Trillium 1977 1300
New York
Posts: 6
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Best tool to cut through roof
I have two 3/8" holes approx 1.5" apart in the roof of my Trillium - previously used to mount a TV antenna. I want to cut the roof to make one hole then glass, Bondo, etc.
What is the best tool to use for cutting - jigsaw, Dremel, other? What type of blade?
The area to cut is thick and I want to avoid cracking the roof while cutting.
Thanks in advance!
John
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12-16-2011, 11:46 AM
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#2
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RixyRV
I have two 3/8" holes approx 1.5" apart in the roof of my Trillium - previously used to mount a TV antenna. I want to cut the roof to make one hole then glass, Bondo, etc.
What is the best tool to use for cutting - jigsaw, Dremel, other? What type of blade?
The area to cut is thick and I want to avoid cracking the roof while cutting.
Thanks in advance!
John
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A Rotozip type tool works great on Fiberglass trailers.
Dremel makes one too and I am sure there are others, but I'm talking about those tools which are kinda like a small router with a cutting blade which resembles a drill bit.
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12-16-2011, 11:51 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Name: Greg
Trailer: 72 Boler American
Indiana
Posts: 1,557
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Whatever you use I would want really fine teeth so as not to grab and crack the fiberglass.
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12-16-2011, 12:21 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Trailer: Toyota Sunrader and 16 ft Scamp
Posts: 975
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Since I retired 7 years ago I have refurbished at least 8 Eggs.
I've added fantastic fans, Escape hatches, Storage hatches aand round deck plates to acess water tank drain valves.
I started with a jig saw, went to my Dremel with a cutting blade then I bought an oscillating multi function tool from Harbor Freight. I think it was around $30.00.
It is by far the best and easiest tool I have used to cut fiberglass. It makes a nice clean cut.
Harbor Freight sells low quality junk but for no more than it's going to be used it will last me along time.
I would use a slightly larger drill bit to bevel the holes and then use the Fiberglass Bondo.
John
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12-16-2011, 01:09 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 8,520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry J
Since I retired 7 years ago I have refurbished at least 8 Eggs.
I've added fantastic fans, Escape hatches, Storage hatches aand round deck plates to acess water tank drain valves.
I started with a jig saw, went to my Dremel with a cutting blade then I bought an oscillating multi function tool from Harbor Freight. I think it was around $30.00.
It is by far the best and easiest tool I have used to cut fiberglass. It makes a nice clean cut.
Harbor Freight sells low quality junk but for no more than it's going to be used it will last me along time.
I would use a slightly larger drill bit to bevel the holes and then use the Fiberglass Bondo.
John
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I have one of those but never thought of using it for that purpose.
Do you think it is more stable?more or lessdust?
I'll give it a try anyway.
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12-16-2011, 01:28 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: 2018, 21ft escape— 2019 Ram 1500 Laramie
NW Wisconsin
Posts: 4,500
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I have used a rockwell multi function tool . Hole saws and a jig saw with fine tooth blades to cut holes in fiberglass ( receptacles , roof fan ,access doors etc. )
by far the multi purpose tool does the best job - "neater cuts - less chipping- less dust - wanders less causing less o s_ _ts.
Don't know about harbor freight but the rockwell is a decent tool
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12-16-2011, 03:42 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2008 21 ft Bigfoot Rear Bed
Posts: 629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve dunham
I have used a rockwell multi function tool . Hole saws and a jig saw with fine tooth blades to cut holes in fiberglass ( receptacles , roof fan ,access doors etc. )
by far the multi purpose tool does the best job - "neater cuts - less chipping- less dust - wanders less causing less o s_ _ts.
Don't know about harbor freight but the rockwell is a decent tool
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I also got Rockwell Multifunction tool and used it on fiberglass, great tool. For Christmas I am getting 12V Nextec Craftsman tool with quick release feature. Since expiration of Fein’s patent in October of 2008 for this type of tool there is good and growing selection on the market. Until patent expiration Fein cornered the market perfectly.
George.
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12-16-2011, 04:01 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Be sure to put down masking tape and mark the tape where you will cut and cut through the tape and it will give you a cleaner edge where you cut.
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12-16-2011, 05:09 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1979 13 ft Boler and 1987 Bigfoot 5th Wheel
Posts: 2,025
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I would just plug the holes. Why make them bigger? Sounds like more work to me.
__________________
1979 Boler B1300 | 1987 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | We officially have a collection!
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12-16-2011, 05:55 PM
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#10
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Senior Member
Name: Ron
Trailer: 2008 13' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 325
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I read all the posts up the previous one and was thinking "why isn't anyone saying, why make more work?"
I have to agree, I'd just bevel the edges of the holes, not just a little bit, at least 3/8" out so that the repair gains mechanical strength as well as fairs smoothly into the existing structure.
Ron
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12-16-2011, 06:00 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Trailer: Scamp
Posts: 7,056
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RixyRV
I have two 3/8" holes approx 1.5" apart in the roof of my Trillium - previously used to mount a TV antenna. I want to cut the roof to make one hole then glass, Bondo, etc.
What is the best tool to use for cutting - jigsaw, Dremel, other? What type of blade?
The area to cut is thick and I want to avoid cracking the roof while cutting.
Thanks in advance!
John
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As Floyd said one of the rotozip type tools works really really well. I cut a hole using the rotozip type attachment to my dremel. I've never cut a hole in any kind of plastic or fiberglass as smooth as I did with that tool. I really surprised at the control and no chip out. I didn't use any tape over the cutting line, no chip out. I was skeptical, but when I got through all I could say is WOW.
__________________
Byron & Anne enjoying the everyday Saturday thing.
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12-16-2011, 07:21 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Name: David
Trailer: 1978 Trillium 1300
Cumberland, Indiana
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in BC
I read all the posts up the previous one and was thinking "why isn't anyone saying, why make more work?"
I have to agree, I'd just bevel the edges of the holes, not just a little bit, at least 3/8" out so that the repair gains mechanical strength as well as fairs smoothly into the existing structure.
Ron
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I agree, 2 small holes to patch is better than patching one big hole. Use a countersink tool, bevel the holes and then patch with fiber infused Bondo or USC Duraglass.
__________________
Trilliums Rock!
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12-16-2011, 08:12 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2000 Scamp 16 ft Side Dinette
Posts: 728
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lizbeth
I would just plug the holes. Why make them bigger? Sounds like more work to me.
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I like this idea. A 3/8 inch carriage bolt sealed with your favorite sealant on the outside, and a fender washer and nut on the inside.
YMMV, of course.
-- Dan Meyer
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12-16-2011, 09:40 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Trailer: 1982 Fiber Stream and 2001 Casita Spirit Deluxe (I'm down to 2!)
Posts: 1,989
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Quote:
Originally Posted by floyd
I have one of those but never thought of using it for that purpose.
Do you think it is more stable?more or lessdust?
I'll give it a try anyway.
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Floyd
My experience has been that if you take fiberglass dust and throw it into a fan pointing at your face you will not be as covered as if you use a Roto Zip to cut !
The Multi Master tools allow for a mostly dust minimized precise cut in fiberglass but I will tell you that Venetian plaster is a whole other story.
I'll tell you about it in Fl.!
Ed
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12-16-2011, 11:56 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: ,Bigfoot 25 foot plus Surfside 14 foot
British Columbia
Posts: 1,148
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Cutting 'glass
I tend to use a very small version of an angle grinder with a very sharp diamond-tooth blade for any 'glass cutting I ever had to do on boats and Corvettes (never had to cut into a 'glass trailer before!)
Lay down masking tape and draw your scribe line ON the tape, and then cut along the line. Peel off the tape and there you are.
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12-17-2011, 05:36 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
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If anyone doesn't want an excuse to go out and buy themselves a new tool, there is a dedicated jigsaw blade for materials like fiberglass and they get used by professionals for curved cuts. It's a RIFF blade and it has something like carbide grit along its front edge, so it cuts very smoothly with virtually no chipping - they may be sold as a blade for cutting tiles.
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12-17-2011, 11:12 AM
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#17
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Senior Member
Trailer: 2002 19 ft Scamp 19 ft 5th Wheel
Posts: 3,640
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Dan Meyer has the absolute best answer. Use stainless steel and you will not have rust.
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