best waterproof replacement for rivets?

[Roy Massen]

Got to pull a window and replace the gasket but don't wnat to use rivets this time. What is the best way to waterproof nut and bolts you experience?

black rubber washer or the white nylon ones?

Got a few other rivets I want to drill out and replace too,

Roy

[Loren G. Hedahl]

What I did was get a box of screws used for fastening down metal roofing at Home Depot.

I removed the Bellville washers (cupped washers with a rubber washer or O-ring underneath) and used them on new stainless screws and nuts.

[colin k]

I went to the local hardware store and bought a bag of tap washers. You know the rubber washers that go in house hold taps . Bought a bag of 100. A 10/24 stainless screw fits them perfectly. So i used a screw, stainless washer, then rubber tap seal. Works great and does not leak. I also use butyl tape on every fastener to avoid leaks.

[evan]

Roy the rivet vs nuts/bolts debate has been going on a long time around the FBT website. I personally think pop rivets are not as good as using screws with self locking nuts and washers, so I think your on the right track. I have seen rivets stretch and loosen up and this is what is causing leaks that people have reported on this site. I have been using stainless #10-24 crosstip panhead screws with the matching self locking nuts for any new supports and to replace a few loose rivets I have found on my 05 Scamp. I also use washers under the nuts to distribute the pressure. A bonus for using this type and size of screw is that the head fits within the beauty cap retainer ring so you can put the little button caps back on for a factory look. You can also get acorn nuts for a nicer appearance on the inside of your trailer. I don't think you need a rubber gasket under the fastener head on the outside. Just put a generous amount of sealant in the hole and under the fastener before putting it in. So far this setup has not leaked for me.

[Benny K]

I replaced a lot of my rivets with #10-24 SS pan head screws and nuts and on some I tried the tap washers, on others I punched washers out of bicycle tube, and still others just a caulk under the screw heads....all are holding up well.....on the visible screws inside the cabin I used SS acorn nuts as lock nuts for the hex nuts.....you could also use SS elastic lock nuts, (Nylocks or other brands)....Benny

[Frederick L. Simson]

I don't think you need a rubber gasket under the fastener head on the outside. [b]Just put a generous amount of sealant in the hole and under the fastener before putting it in. So far this setup has not leaked for me.

I agree with Evan. I resealed all of the through-hull screws in my Fiber Stream in the same procedure that he describes. No leaks so far.

[Penny Taylor]

A bonus for using this type and size of screw is that the head fits within the beauty cap retainer ring so you can put the little button caps back on for a factory look.

I have been trying to find these "beauty cap retaining rings". I wonder where you found yours ? They would be so neat, and handy to use. Thanks.

[BillNKC]

I did something very similar. I took an 11/64" drill bit and drilled out the rivets and replaced them with #8 stainless steel machine bolts using a flat washer, followed by a lock washer and a nut ( all stainless steel). ( if you use a 5/32" drill bit you will need to thread the #8 screw into the hole your choice). The pastic cups and buttons were bought from Scamp. I also used copious amounts of butyl tape in each hole and under each cup.

To clean the residue off I used Imperial cleaner ( naptha based just like lighter fluid) and then a quick polish over the area to keep the paint looking nice. Then an acorn nut to finish the spot and all is tight and pretty

[Joe MacDonald]

try here for snap caps in many colours and styles.

[evan]

I have been trying to find these "beauty cap retaining rings". I wonder where you found yours ? They would be so neat, and handy to use. Thanks.

Hello Penny. These are RV industry standard parts so you should be able to get them at any major RV service center that has a nice parts dept. You may have to order them but I would think they have them in stock. You can also call Scamp or Casita and they will ship you some for a nominal cost.

[Penny Taylor]

Thank you so much. Now that I know their other 'nom de plume', I found them in our local RV store's catalog under "screw covers" They should neaten up what I am trying to do !!

[D Shubel]

I have been trying to find these "beauty cap retaining rings". I wonder where you found yours ? They would be so neat, and handy to use. Thanks.

I saw a couple of bags (of 50 or so) at my local neighborhood hardware store. Didn't check the price just saw them in with all the nuts & bolts & screws & washers. It made me wonder what people without a fiberglass trailer would use them for.

[Donna D.]

Remember, it's not the rivet that leaks...it's the hole! Same kinda sealing would apply whether using screws/washers or rivets.

That probably sounded like a dumb statement....but using screws isn't going to fix a leak and in some cases (weight bearing area) can actually enlarge the hole and make any leak worse.

[Kurt in BC]

Benny, I bought a box of the 10-25 ss panhead screws and accorn nuts but the appear slightly too long to put the accord nut on and tighten them down enough. Did you have to do any cutting when you bought yours? I think I may take these ack and find something slightly smaller.

- Kurt

[Benny K]

That`s #10-24 screws....the length that I used were either 3/8" or 1/2"....I used hex nuts and then followed up with acorn nuts to jam the hex nuts on to keep them from loosening......the hex nuts will take up about 1/8" of the length by themselves....went looking for screws to get the right length but can`t find them at the moment......Benny

[Benny K]

Remember, it's not the rivet that leaks...it's the hole! Same kinda sealing would apply whether using screws/washers or rivets.

That probably sounded like a dumb statement....but using screws isn't going to fix a leak and in some cases (weight bearing area) can actually enlarge the hole and make any leak worse.

Hi, regular Pop rivets tend to leak between the rivet body and the mandrel bit still left in it....on Bolers, the factory used something like dabs of liquid aluminum/steel to seal the middle of the rivets....whatever they used is hard....if you used the marine rivets that the mandrel hole doesn`t go right thru,... then the sealing method would be the same as screws...just under the head of the screw or rivet......Benny

[Penny Taylor]

Quote: D Shubel : <<<It made me wonder what people without a fiberglass trailer would use them for. >>>

I didn't get them just for the trailer, I want to cover screws in all sorts of places.
Usually I am working with thicker wood, so I use wooden buttons. But I am making a lighter weight box, with thinner wood, and if I drilled out for wooden buttons, it would compromise the structural integrity. These buttons can just sit on the outside of the piece. They have them at Lowes, but at 74 cents for 2, I knew I would be better off, ordering them in bulk.

[Kurt in BC]

Thanks Benny. For some reason I ordered the 10-24 screws at 1" long. Needless to sy they are too long. I'll get some shorter ones.

Thanks.

[Benny K]

Hi again Kurt, my screws may have even been 5/8"...not sure and couldn`t find a package of them around here....will have a look in the morning.....or maybe take one out of the trailer that holds up the cabinetry..... ....Benny