Bigfoot Front Awning latches - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-14-2016, 10:36 PM   #15
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Name: K C
Trailer: 1980 18' Sunrader Motorhome and 1971 Trailswest Campster
Washington
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OK, I have come up with the keywords for the part you need.
"hand retractable (spring) plunger"

I am pretty good at figuring out hardware and suppliers for items since it is part of my professional background in manufacturing.

The website below shows an example of the dimensions you are going to need to take from your existing parts to find a match for them. I have no idea if Bigfoot was using metric parts or standard inch measurements. If one of you is in the Seattle area we can meet up and I can take those measurements in person. That way we can get the measurements put into the archives and find a reliable source for a suitable replacement part.

Steel or Stainless Steel Pull Ring - Standard Length - Locking Plungers : Northwestern Tools :

In the diagram in the link above you will see mention of available with or without a locking element. The locking element is typically just a bit of nylon material in a hole that protrudes out into the thread area. This locking element would be good to have as it will help prevent the screw body from backing out of the hole and getting lost due to road vibration. But it would still allow you to remove and replace the part if needed at some future date.
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:28 PM   #16
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I could use one new pin as well. The previous owner bent it trying to pry it. I also need to replace the wingnut tensioners. They are rusted and no longer work. Does anyone know how these work? There appears to be an aluminum ring in behind the wingnut that snugs up the tension. Mine doesn't release the tension. Sorry if I highjacked the original thread


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Old 05-18-2016, 11:32 PM   #17
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Name: K C
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Collins View Post
I could use one new pin as well. The previous owner bent it trying to pry it. I also need to replace the wingnut tensioners. They are rusted and no longer work. Does anyone know how these work? There appears to be an aluminum ring in behind the wingnut that snugs up the tension. Mine doesn't release the tension. Sorry if I highjacked the original thread


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you can find them in various places on the internet such as McMaster Carr.
keywords are "hand retractable (spring) plunger" You need to take measurements to match it up to the product specifics such as thread profile, length of body, length of tip, etc.
McMaster-Carr
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:58 PM   #18
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Name: Stu
Trailer: Bigfoot
Oregon
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Question

Hi - New Bigfoot owner here (2002 25B21R). One of my latches is gone and the other is missing the spring and clip.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Vintage Trailer Supply sells the whole support arm with that type pin latch for $15

I've searched on VTS and can't find this. Mind posting up a link? Thanks.

I'm thinking of installing rubber latches like this:






What do you think? I could shove it a little farther back if I cut the edge molding. Comments?

Here's a few pics of the "new" trailer:





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Old 08-28-2016, 08:08 PM   #19
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Trailer: 1984 u-haul ct13; 1996 Casita 17 Spirit Deluxe; 1946 Modernistic teardrop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mary and bob View Post
Vintage Trailer Supply sells the whole support arm with that type pin latch for $15
Listed as "stone guard support arm" find it under "exterior" and then "window rock guard"
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Old 08-28-2016, 09:01 PM   #20
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OK, found it. Thanks.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:18 AM   #21
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Name: Francois
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why ask why....

I have the same rock guard on my 97B17....when the latches failed a PO just sourced two SS bolt that threaded into the bottom half of the latches.....it worked.... and is just slightly annoying as I have to turn the bolts in or out every time....lately I have just used one side to secure the guard in the down position....

here's the "why ask why" .....I'm wondering why I need to secure the thing in the down position to begin with....there are those two gas struts that keep the thing open or closed anyway....when driving wouldn't the wind do a good job, a very good job, of keeping the guard pushed hard against the coach??? I'm having a hard time imagining a stituation where the guard would open during travel....if it's about vibration and the guard damaging/wearing the FG on the coach, a couple of strategically placed little rubber bumpers would take care of that....

next trip I'll have to try leaving the thing unlatched and see what happens...my guess is not very much at all.....happy motoring
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Old 08-29-2016, 08:09 AM   #22
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You'll find that if they aren't secured, or both secured that the edge will wear a slight mark or groove over time into the coach body. Ask me how I know.
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Old 08-29-2016, 09:02 AM   #23
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thanks Dwayne...

yep I can see how that would happen....hence my rubber bumper comment....

if the thing opened up during travel it would be a major disaster... on possibly more than one front.....hummmm....so even if I didn't latch the "belt and suspenders on" side of my personality would make me have a safety of some kind....so maybe I should just keep latching...it's already there after all
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Old 08-30-2016, 11:37 AM   #24
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Name: Martin
Trailer: Bigfoot 27.5 Front bed
Missouri
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Stu:
your repair is what bigfoot uses on newer trailers, our 2005 17.5g has the rubber strap. the rubber part is attached to the face edge of the rock shield, rather than the bottom edge like in your picture. this also exerts a clamping force to keep the rock guard closed against the wind that will try to lift it. I am going to need to replace them this season or soon as the rubber is wearing out in the clamping socket. If this isn't clear I can take a picture another time. I realized after posting I had it upside down, the rubber attaches to the body and the c shaped receiver on the rock guard.
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Old 08-30-2016, 06:10 PM   #25
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Name: Stu
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Thanks Martin! I was going to order the pseudo replacement parts from VTS but think I will go with the rubber latches and install how you've shown. The original part's design seems to be overly complicated for it's function and prone to failure (hence BF going to the rubber latches in later years).
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Old 08-30-2016, 09:20 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franswa View Post
if the thing opened up during travel it would be a major disaster... on possibly more than one front.....hummmm....so even if I didn't latch the "belt and suspenders on" side of my personality would make me have a safety of some kind....so maybe I should just keep latching...it's already there after all
We have a member here who lost theirs on the I-5 a number of years ago due to forgetting to latch it. They went back for it and I don't recall the details but I think they did find it but it was badly broken up. Don't recall if it had been run over a few times or it simple broke up while bouncing down the road.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:24 AM   #27
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I have used those rubber latches on a cab I built for one of my tractors. Over time the rubber deteriorated and broke, so be aware of that. You may need to replace them after a few years. I also used on that same project a pair of spring loaded metal latches, same idea as the rubber, but metal and chrome. They were from a 70's International truck fiberglass hood. Latches similar in size to the rubber ones are available in steel, possibly for vintage Jeeps
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Old 08-31-2016, 07:38 AM   #28
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thanks Carol....

LOL....I'll file that idea in my "great idea...too bad it didn't work" drawer....IF there's still some room left in there
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