Boler 13' frame removal in progress - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-05-2012, 09:04 PM   #15
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Yes, that is what I was asking. I was confused about the terminology. My bad. My concern was that the outer shell of the egg wont support the weight of the entire camper, minus the trailer.

thanks for clearing that up and for being patient.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:08 PM   #16
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ummm, I wouldn't want to rely on the outside edge of the egg to support the whole trailer. Maybe it would be ok, but I wouldnt take the risk. I had the jack stands supporting the fiberglass floor.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:12 PM   #17
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I guess... ? different designs. the floor isn't fiberglass. the 'glass just wraps around the wood floor about 3 inches or so. So the wood floor will have to be slid in onto that ledge.
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Old 08-05-2012, 09:26 PM   #18
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Perhaps true. In a 13' boler, its entirely fiberglass. There may be a wood sandwich with fiberglass in the middle, but from the ground looking up, all you see is fiberglass.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:30 AM   #19
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Not the early bolers Derek.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:51 AM   #20
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Having restored both a Love Bug and a Boler,within the past year, I can confirm that the floor pan of each is indeed different.

The 1974 Boler features a fiberglass pan with integrated wood slats sandwiched between layers of FG and resin. These slats span the frame rails and provide the lateral strength necessary to carry any weight. My understanding is that, typically, a plywood subfloor is then added to the topside of the cabin floor surface.

The Love Bug, on the other hand, has only resin-coated plywood as its floor, spanning the entire frame, with the shell sides glassed -- top and bottom -- to the wood surface along the perimeter. My 1973 LB resto required a complete floor replacement. This meant cutting all of the old wood away from the FG, then prepping the edges for new wood and glass.

When lifting the shell from the frame, the shell can be supported on its edges this way: on the corners. As suggested, use a jack with a piece of plywood to spread the load (18" x 18" or so...) but directly under each corner where the shell curves from one side to the other. And go slow!
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:01 AM   #21
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Cat,
I know that Jean-L has replaced part if not all of his floor in his boler American. They were built very similar to your Love Bug. I've sent him an email asking him if will post how he did his in this thread. That is if what he did applies to your situation.

My guess is that you are going to have to drop your frame. I'm not sure how much you are going to have to take out to do that. Scamps also have wood floors so that might be worth a search. If I were to do mine, I would make 4 braces that would support the body by the belly band at the sides by each corner. Jack the trailer up by the frame, place the braces, remove the bolts and screws that hold the body to the frame, then drop the frame and remove it. (I composed this post while Robert was posting his. Just a different point of view, both will work. Keep in mind that the curbside fiberglass is slanted down.)

I would then replace the floor. I'm not sure if I would use plywood or not. If so, I would be tempted to go for marine plywood. I've also seen engineered panels that are fiberglass on both sides with a honey comb lattice in the middle. They were used on the Oxygen. It appears that 3M owns the company now, but here is some info.
http://www.nida-core.com/pdfs/rigidtech.pdf
They would be my first choice, depending on price and availability.
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:18 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roy in TO View Post
Not the early bolers Derek.
It indeed seems there is a lot of variability. Perhaps it varied by where the boler was manufactured too. In any case, my boler had none of the sloppy weld issues I have seen in pictures. It also appears to have been reinforced in the spots where the cracking seems to have been an issue. The axle was also bolted on rather than welded. Perhaps someone did work along the way, but it all looks original to me. Its good news as it means I can remove the rust, paint, and bolt on a new axle and I'm good to go.
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:33 AM   #23
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The axle was also bolted on rather than welded.
Bonus!
Is there anything identifying the axle?
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Old 08-06-2012, 10:37 AM   #24
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Is there anything identifying the axle?
There is a rivited on id plate mounted on the axle. Its been coated over, so it will take some effort to read it.
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Old 08-06-2012, 12:14 PM   #25
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"The Love Bug, on the other hand, has only resin-coated plywood as its floor, spanning the entire frame, with the shell sides glassed -- top and bottom -- to the wood surface along the perimeter. My 1973 LB resto required a complete floor replacement. This meant cutting all of the old wood away from the FG, then prepping the edges for new wood and glass."

Robert,
Did you replace the floor just as you found it or did you do something to give it more structural integrity?
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Old 08-06-2012, 01:50 PM   #26
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There is a rivited on id plate mounted on the axle. Its been coated over, so it will take some effort to read it.
Sadly, I dont think I will be able to read this plate. There was too many layers of stuff on it, and it appears that the id information was painted on. Oh well.

Derek
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Old 08-06-2012, 02:12 PM   #27
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Cathy,
I recommend that you use good quality 3/4" plywood to replace your floor. I like Birch "Euro-ply" which features 7 to 9 plies for a lot of integrity.

Then, (in my opinion) for best water resistance and durability, the bottom face (the exterior side exposed to the road) should be coated with a layer of FG and resin, with lots of attention (resin!) paid to the end-grain edges.

Then, after the shell walls have been re-glassed to your new floor (top and bottom) at the perimeter, the top/interior face should also get a coat of resin.
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Old 08-21-2012, 10:34 PM   #28
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Great advise of how to redo the floor Robert. i would like to replace it as well but do i really have to drop the frame and everything.
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