Boler axle, should it look like this?

[AJCmedia]

Just dropped the axle from my original Boler frame and I'm about to mount it on my new frame. I know there's supposed to be a vertical bow to the axle but what about a horizontal bow? I noticed there was a fair amount of cupping on one of the tires which I don't think should be the case. Thoughts?

[Glen_]

A lot, if not all trailer axles have a slight bow horizontally which makes the wheels tip in at the bottom. The axle must be straight from side to side so the wheels face straight ahead. All trailers that I have worked on that were built correctly but developed a bow that made the wheels tip in or out front to back were backed into something. Happens some times when backing into a campsite with tree stumps, parking curbs etc. Easily fixed by some one with a hydraulic press. The tires will indeed wear out very quickly if not fixed.

[AJCmedia]

Thanks Glen. Managed to get it bent back close to original. Have a press in the shop. Bolting locations are a little ascew but nothing I can work with.

[Roy in TO]

I would not dream of replacing the frame without replacing the axle, especially if the tires are indicating something is wrong.

[Donna D.]

Humm, torsion axles do have a bow in the middle. I replaced the axle on my Scamp a number of years back and when I picked up the axle at Potter Webster here in Portland, that bow was very evident. Now this is just a screen capture, but shows what I described.

[John Magnusson]

Hi, Glen has it right. Bow vertically up in the middle, but the tires must run true. The bow up is the camber so that when the weight of the trailer is placed on the tires and axle, the axle flexes with the weight and the tires run true again, vertically and horizontally. This allows the tires to wear evenly. Tire pressure is also critical. If you have trailer tires and not car tires the pressure is probably fifty pounds. It will say on the tire what the max. pressure is. I work in a trailer repair shop and see bent axles almost every day. Straightening your axle is a temporary fix. I would be looking for a new axle. Where I work we are now building frames for 13 foot Bolers based on a 1974 Neonex frame. You could say I have been there, done that, when it comes to Bolers.
John.

[Carol H]

Originally Posted by AJCmedia

I know there's supposed to be a vertical bow to the axle but what about a horizontal bow?

A new axle will come with a very noticeable horizontal bow......

I am with the others I would not put an axle that is over 30 years old onto a new frame - its whats inside the axle that is shoot and can not be fixed no matter which way you bend the axle.

[BillE]

I have a 2016 Scamp 13 ft with the Lippert Torsion axle. I was going to put a 3 inch lift on it and when I was trying to drop the axle noticed there is a welded "support bracket" right in the center of the axle.

This is welded from the center of the axle up to the frame cross member. It appears that this is to provide center axle support.

[John Magnusson]

Carol is also right. A 30 to 40 year old axle that relies on the rubber inside for suspension is done. The rubber is dried out, sagged out,
and who knows what else, because you can't see it. Put in a new axle, you won't regret it. as far as the welded bracket in the center of the 2016 scamp axle is concerned(BillE post) I worked on a 2014 scamp a week ago which also had this bracket, and as far as I could see it appeared to be more of a floor support to me.
John.

[AJCmedia]

Thanks for the info John. Curious to know if you rebuild the frames with a trailing axle or leading axle config. I went with stock leading but I've heard others have changed how they have their axles mounted. I've located a place in Edmonton, AB that will build a custom, splined Boler axle that is height adjustable. I'll likely go that route once I get a few more of the other items out of the way.

[John Magnusson]

Currently we are going with the stock setup, leading axle. I have modified one Boler to go trailing axle but future plans include modifying our frame to go trailing. It has worked for more than 40 years so it can't be that bad. Just for info, our new axles include a 3 inch lift.
John.

[John Magnusson]

Just a bit more info. The axles we install are 2000 pound capacity and 10 degree angle up. In a leading configuration I would stick with the 10 degrees up, going zero or any angle down doesn't feel correct. By up I mean the arm is angled up lowering the trailer.
John.

[Roy in TO]

Originally Posted by AJCmedia

I've heard others have changed how they have their axles mounted.

I did a fairly exhaustive post on how to do it here:
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...arm-37248.html

Originally Posted by John Magnusson

In a leading configuration I would stick with the 10 degrees up, going zero or any angle down doesn't feel correct. By up I mean the arm is angled up lowering the trailer.
John.

Keep in mind the angle is measured under no load, check the specs and you will find a 0 degree will be up under the weight of a trailer. As a matter of fact, according to this document a 10 down will actually be slightly up under full load:
http://www.expediter.com/pdf%20folde...folder/A11.pdf

[Regina.Oake]

Originally Posted by AJCmedia

Thanks for the info John. Curious to know if you rebuild the frames with a trailing axle or leading axle config. I went with stock leading but I've heard others have changed how they have their axles mounted. I've located a place in Edmonton, AB that will build a custom, splined Boler axle that is height adjustable. I'll likely go that route once I get a few more of the other items out of the way.

Hi there - new boler owner here in Edmonton! Curious as to where in Edmonton you had this done? Thanks in advance!