Boler door bolts - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 06-24-2013, 10:57 PM   #15
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Brian B-P's Avatar
Name: Brian
Trailer: Boler (B1700RGH) 1979
Posts: 5,000
Originally Posted by Donna D. View Post
Humm, is there enough of the brass ball visible to take a hack saw and carefully saw through one of them?
I like your thinking... but it might be difficult to keep the ball from turning while it is being cut.

1979 Boler B1700RGH, pulled by 2004 Toyota Sienna LE 2WD
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:04 AM   #16
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Name: Roy
Trailer: 1972 boler American and 1979 Trillium 4500
Posts: 4,852
If one bolt is broken, undo the other one and push it through the hinge. You should be able to lift the door up enough to get off the balls.

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Old 06-25-2013, 09:37 PM   #17
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Name: Jamie
Trailer: Boler 1977
Posts: 97
A strong friend succeeded in lifting the door off the brass balls by leveraging a screwdriver between the hinges.

Somehow the door latch caught the bottom of the face plate in transit. I swear I don't remember hitting anything! Doesn't help that the door is 1/2 inch lower, and allows the latch to drop down. Taller brass balls are in order to lift the door to the correct height. Won't help the sag, but at least the latch will be in proper position.

Once we got the door open, he installed a 12 volt plug, a nice update to the ol' girl.

Thanks for all your suggestions and support!
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Old 06-25-2013, 10:16 PM   #18
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,708
Jamie you can older this Door Hing repair kit from Scamp for $5 - you will need two. To bad it didnt happen on the way to the meet I could have given you the set sitting in my trailer waiting to be installed.
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Old 06-26-2013, 04:06 PM   #19
Name: Rick
Trailer: 72 Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 88
I would not suggest getting larger brass balls (I know, that just doesn't sound right) but instead, get the same size as original because of the pocket they sit in. I also used 1/4" SS bolts with Nylock nuts. This might be a good time to refit the door to it's proper position. Bolers were/are notorious for door sag.

I did this on my 13' Boler by removing the hinges from the door, filled the hinge bolt holes with epoxy and re-drilled new holes at the correct location so the door sits in the proper position. An added bonus after the mod was that the latch bolt now lines up with the strike plate. I also replaced the door weatherstrip with a newer style to complete the modification.

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