Boler door reshaping - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV

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Old 12-08-2014, 07:38 PM   #15
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 15
Some pictures of my door and frame

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Old 12-08-2014, 07:40 PM   #16
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
Posts: 15
I need to do more work to the hinges a little build up. There is about a inch of weather stripping along the top that the PO had installed

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Old 12-08-2014, 07:46 PM   #17
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Name: Loren
Trailer: 1978 Boler 13'
Posts: 16
Hi Steve.. I joined in your thread thinking we had similar issues.. I hope we can both get our doors straightened out!

Thanks Ian! I am going to rebuild my hinges. This I think is something that I can manage.
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:54 PM   #18
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Trailer: Escape 5.0 TA, 2014
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Since you are in Canada, and shipping (customs) can be a problem when contacting Scamp... see if Paul has what you need for your hinges: Fibreglass RV Parts, Repairs, and Service by Paul Neumeister
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Ten Forward - 2014 Escape 5.0 TA
Double Yolk - 1988 16' Scamp Deluxe
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Old 12-09-2014, 05:48 AM   #19
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Name: Ian
Trailer: 1974 Boler 1300 - 2014 Escape 19'
Posts: 1,358
Steve, it is hard to tell but it does look like your hinges also need a rebuild. The other thing I would check on yours is make sure the screws that secure the wooden body supports by the door on the inside are tight. I would be investigaing why the trim piece has bowed out like it is, might be just the glue has failed and it has fallen off, but it the body has sagged a little it may also cause this.
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:46 AM   #20
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Trailer: Boler
British Columbia
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I pulled the trim off to see what the support was made of. I put new brass balls in but I think I am going to build the hinges up with some liquid metal. The support seems tight but maybe I should take it off and check a little closer and put new screws in.

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Old 08-21-2015, 05:51 PM   #21
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Name: John
Trailer: '71 Boler, '87 Play-Mor II
Deep South
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Originally Posted by Ian G. View Post
Although many have recurved their door to make it fit better I still insist that the shape of the door remains constant and the actual body on the 13' Boler has sagged some. The sagging body will result in slightly more curve to the profile where the hinges mount and the result is the door gaps. Actually a very small change in the curvature and or misalignment of the door hinges can cause a considerable gap. Try adjusting the door and hinge position first, the upper hinge often moves down and towards the back of the trailer so adjusting the door hinges so the door sits square in the opening and tighter to the top of the frame.
While we did have a slight roof sag due to the a/c unit on top, the body near the door did not appear to have distortion and the metal was still in tact to the inside right of the door as well as the left side to the closet. We had a slight gap above and below the door which the PO had attempted to fix with scamp hinges. Due to a lot of flexing in the door top to bottom and seeing another post here about a door rebuild I pulled our door apart to find a lot of mushy pulp of what was left of the original wood that helped the fiberglass door hold its curved shape. Besides the mushy wood the door was mostly hollowed out with the only intact wood being above the window and some of that even had rot in it. I ending up making a metal frame carefully hand bent to the curve of the door jam and then using a 2 part epoxy to bond the outer door to the frame. The metal should last much longer than the wood and hold the doors shape better and stronger. Now I just got to get my hinges in the right spot to get the door to open fully, right now the door hits the belly band before it is full open, I believe the hinges on the body need to move closer towards the door opening to allow for more swing out, which will require I re-drill the holes on the door as well.

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