Originally Posted by Ian G.
Although many have recurved their door to make it fit better I still insist that the shape of the door remains constant and the actual body on the 13' Boler
has sagged some. The sagging body will result in slightly more curve to the profile where the hinges mount and the result is the door gaps. Actually a very small change in the curvature and or misalignment of the door hinges can cause a considerable gap. Try adjusting the door and hinge position first, the upper hinge often moves down and towards the back of the trailer so adjusting the door hinges so the door sits square in the opening and tighter to the top of the frame.
While we did have a slight roof sag due to the a/c unit on top, the body near the door did not appear to have distortion and the metal was still in tact to the inside right of the door as well as the left side to the closet. We had a slight gap above and below the door which the PO had attempted to fix with scamp
hinges. Due to a lot of flexing in the door top to bottom and seeing another post here about a door rebuild I pulled our door apart to find a lot of mushy pulp of what was left of the original wood that helped the fiberglass door hold its curved shape. Besides the mushy wood the door was mostly hollowed out with the only intact wood being above the window and some of that even had rot in it. I ending up making a metal frame carefully hand bent to the curve of the door jam and then using a 2 part epoxy to bond the outer door to the frame. The metal should last much longer than the wood and hold the doors shape better and stronger. Now I just got to get my hinges in the right spot to get the door to open fully, right now the door hits the belly band before it is full open, I believe the hinges on the body need to move closer towards the door opening to allow for more swing out, which will require I re-drill the holes on the door as well.