Boler door support bar - Fiberglass RV


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-22-2009, 02:43 PM   #1
Member
 
Name: Jerry
Trailer: Scamperless
Minnesota
Posts: 63
I have been doing a lot of searching and reading about the infamous door sagging. I would like to remove the support bar on my newly acquired Boler since I'm pretty sure it has bent under the weight of the trailer over all these years. My long term project is to build and entire new door jamb assembly and form fit it to the door. Even extending the floor out to meet the door. And at the same time make if possible to install a screen door. My short term project would be to remove the bar and straighten it some to see if that wouldn't pull the hinge side of the door back in since by door current hits the belly band when it is about 2/3 the way open.
My question is how do you remove the existing bar? There are no visible fasteners. Unless I need to pull off the white molding that goes around the doorway to see them. Or does a cover snap off from inside and the screws hidden below the cover? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
__________________

__________________
Jerry71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 06:52 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Lizbeth's Avatar
 
Name: Liz
Trailer: 1979 13 ft Boler, 1987 & 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel
California
Posts: 2,027
Registry
My '79 has screws through the door recess into threaded holes in the bar. The trim partly covers them. The door does hit the belly band a bit. I bought new hinges from Scamp and I made some shims for the door side hinges to level them out vertically because they were binding. It made the hinges work much more smoothly and gave more belly band clearance.
__________________

__________________
1979 Boler B1300 | 1987 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | 1988 Bigfoot 5th Wheel | We officially have a collection!
Lizbeth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 07:43 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
james kent's Avatar
 
Name: james
Trailer: Boler 1984
Ontario
Posts: 2,938
I wouldn't remove the support bar. There was never one in our Boler and the door sagged, and wobbled, horribly until we made a screen door and it's frame. This stiffened the body to the point where the door fit better.The support bar is curved to match the body curve; to keep the body itself from sagging, the same as the cupboard does on the other side. Without these pieces the body would balloon out and the roof droop on that side.
__________________
james kent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 08:23 PM   #4
Member
 
Name: Jerry
Trailer: Scamperless
Minnesota
Posts: 63
Quote:
My '79 has screws through the door recess into threaded holes in the bar. The trim partly covers them. The door does hit the belly band a bit. I bought new hinges from Scamp and I made some shims for the door side hinges to level them out vertically because they were binding. It made the hinges work much more smoothly and gave more belly band clearance.
Thanks Lizbeth. After closer examination I did find the screw heads. Sometime in it's earlier life some one has replaced the weather stripping and put it directly over the heads of the screws. Since the weather stripping is shot I will be replacing it anyway so peeling it away to expose the screws is no big deal.
__________________
Jerry71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 08:28 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Alf S.'s Avatar
 
Name: Alfred
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2010 Nissan Frontier
Ontario
Posts: 3,816
Registry
Send a message via Yahoo to Alf S.
Hi: Jerry Knowlton... The screw heads are located under the door seal/gasket. I took the bar out and straightened it...but went too far and had to bend it back some!!! So a little adjustment goes a long way. It is tough to bend and requires a large vise!!!
I also ordered a door gasket set from Scamp to re seal the door after the adjustment.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
__________________
Alf S. is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 08:30 PM   #6
Member
 
Name: Jerry
Trailer: Scamperless
Minnesota
Posts: 63
Quote:
I wouldn't remove the support bar. There was never one in our Boler and the door sagged, and wobbled, horribly until we made a screen door and it's frame. This stiffened the body to the point where the door fit better.The support bar is curved to match the body curve; to keep the body itself from sagging, the same as the cupboard does on the other side. Without these pieces the body would balloon out and the roof droop on that side.
James are you saying not to remove it even temporarily while I have it straightened? My intent is not to remove it permanently. Just to straighten and possibly strengthen it, then re-install it. I would not tow it with out the bar in place. Once I have the new door jamb/threshold/screen door assembly made, then my plan would be to remove it and replace it with the new assembly.
__________________
Jerry71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 08:38 PM   #7
Member
 
Name: Jerry
Trailer: Scamperless
Minnesota
Posts: 63
Quote:
Hi: Jerry Knowlton... The screw heads are located under the door seal/gasket. I took the bar out and straightened it...but went too far and had to bend it back some!!! So a little adjustment goes a long way. It is tough to bend and requires a large vise!!!
I also ordered a door gasket set from Scamp to re seal the door after the adjustment.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
Alf S, thanks, I did find the screw heads. I plan on using a press to straighten it. I should be able to control the amount very carefully. I will probably do it in stages just to make sure I don't over do it. Looks like the hardest thing to do will be to get those square drive screws out. They are rusted. Maybe some penetrating oil for a couple of nights may help.
__________________
Jerry71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2009, 08:52 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Alf S.'s Avatar
 
Name: Alfred
Trailer: 2014 Escape 5.0TA / 2010 Nissan Frontier
Ontario
Posts: 3,816
Registry
Send a message via Yahoo to Alf S.
Hi: Again... I didn't have a prob. with those screws but the hinge ones were a different matter. I had to drill out the door side of the hinges fill the holes with "Tech Steel" and then use the Scamp hinge hardware, nuts 'n bolts to re hang the door. The holes in the fiberglass door were shaped like 3 leaf clovers...but once filled and re drilled the door hung straight.
Alf S. North shore of Lake Erie
__________________
Alf S. is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2009, 08:12 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
james kent's Avatar
 
Name: james
Trailer: Boler 1984
Ontario
Posts: 2,938
Quote:
James are you saying not to remove it even temporarily while I have it straightened? My intent is not to remove it permanently. Just to straighten and possibly strengthen it, then re-install it. I would not tow it with out the bar in place. Once I have the new door jamb/threshold/screen door assembly made, then my plan would be to remove it and replace it with the new assembly.
Sorry, I thought that you were going to leave it out. It took ours about 20 years to sag about 1 1/2 out of alignment, so a short time won't make much difference. You could bend the support to match the other side of the doorframe. 'Roy-In-TO' made a wooden guage the shape of his trailer to use to bring his whole trailer back into line.


Click image for larger version

Name:	our_boler__8__3.jpg
Views:	48
Size:	64.7 KB
ID:	21126

Make sure that your trailer is level and place a 1/2 stringer verticle on the cupboard side and make a template to to cut the side frames. Then make your door to fit the now square opening.


__________________
james kent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2009, 08:19 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
james kent's Avatar
 
Name: james
Trailer: Boler 1984
Ontario
Posts: 2,938

Click image for larger version

Name:	Screen_Door.jpg
Views:	42
Size:	45.2 KB
ID:	21128



Click image for larger version

Name:	Trillium_Door.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	32.1 KB
ID:	21127


Here's a couple a little more elaborate.
__________________
james kent is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2009, 10:36 AM   #11
Member
 
Name: Jerry
Trailer: Scamperless
Minnesota
Posts: 63
Thanks James, they look good. That is what I have in mind. Probably not as fancy as these two, but I have an idea of my own. But since it is 95 degrees and humid here today, instead of working on the door jamb, I think it's time to take out the cushions and the old kids pool and wash them up. Not a bad job on a day like today.
__________________

__________________
Jerry71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
boler


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Boler 13' Top of Door Gap Emily R. Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 1 10-17-2009 01:12 PM
Boler Door jerryh Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 5 08-11-2009 09:35 AM
74 BOLER: I fixed the door gap. Jayson Wall Modifications, Alterations and Updates 3 05-18-2007 05:26 PM
72 Boler Door BillNKC Problem Solving | Owners Helping Owners 11 04-22-2006 11:35 AM
Support for microwave cabinet door Legacy Posts Modifications, Alterations and Updates 0 02-26-2003 04:49 PM

» Upcoming Events
No events scheduled in
the next 465 days.
» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.