Boler in a garage? - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-07-2007, 01:40 PM   #1
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I find the measurement of at least older Boler 13's to be 6 ft 11 inches. My garage opening could be 7' 1/2 inch if I removed the trim from the top of the door. Would a Boler actually fit? If I took air out of the tires to garage it, would I need to put the air back in as soon as it was inside, or wait until I took it out again?

The problem I have with just trying one is that the Boler's I've seen are Canada/Washington and the garage is in California. I might find a Boler up in Washington or BC this summer, though.

I have thought about making a "garage door" frame from PVC (the non-flex kind) that measures the same as my garage, and then I could take it with me (put it together on the spot) to see if the trailer was actually short enough.

Bobbie
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Old 03-07-2007, 02:27 PM   #2
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I'd be more inclined to take the tires/wheels off completely and roll it in on a wheel dolly. Rolling on flattened tires is hard on the rubber.

Take off the wheels by jacking the trailer up, put the drums down on these:

2 PC. VEHICLE DOLLIES

That's provided you have a wheeled tongue jack and no plumbing would hang down.
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:00 PM   #3
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When you measure to see how tall your Boler is, make sure that you take into consideration the angle of the driveway in relation to the floor of the garage. If you are backing up hill into the garage, the angle will make your trailer "taller." You need more vertical clearance. What about using 8" trailer tires to get it in the garage?
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Old 03-07-2007, 03:09 PM   #4
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Quote:

When you measure to see how tall your Boler is, make sure that you take into consideration the angle of the driveway in relation to the floor of the garage. If you are backing up hill into the garage, the angle will make your trailer "taller." You need more vertical clearance. What about using 8" trailer tires to get it in the garage?
Nothing involving changing tires is practical for me. I would be having to keep the Boler in the garage whenever not in use. (I have ZERO outside parking except on the street, in a high car-theft high graffiti city.) But the garage butts onto the sidewalk, about 10 feet of cement level with the garage, before the dip (about 8 inches) to the street. So the towing vehicle would be still backing uphill as the trailer entered the garage.

Bobbie
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:26 PM   #5
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In your instance, I'd be prone to side with Donna on this one!!
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:33 AM   #6
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There are all ready 2 threads on this subject:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in......=21349&st=0
http://www.fiberglassrv.com/board/in...fit+the+garage
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:53 AM   #7
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Thanks, Con. The links didn't work, but by searching on the words in the links I found the links again. (Odd..)

Anyway, one of them answered my original question about putting the air back in the tires.

Bobbie
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Old 03-08-2007, 12:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
...Take off the wheels by jacking the trailer up, put the drums down on these:
2 PC. VEHICLE DOLLIES
I agree that rolling on flattened tires is bad for the tires (and difficult!), but if I were to take wheels off I would rather put on some very short ones (even bare wheels, as previously suggested), rather than trying to use dollies without a tire. For one thing, the casters on the dollies allow sideways movement (which is sometimes why they are used), which could make control difficult or even dangerous, particularly if the driveway is not level. The tiny casters could also make getting over the garage threshold tough, if it is not a nice transition.
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Old 03-08-2007, 02:29 PM   #9
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Brian has some valid points about the wheel dollies, but I've used them on a 1967 Mustang, rolled across some pretty rough asphalt...all BY MYSELF. Spent more time jacking the car up and getting the dollies under the tires than it took to turn the car nearly 90 degrees and push it about 15 feet. And yes, the fact the casters allowed sideways movement is what I needed at that particular time. Smaller wheels without a tire, maybe what's necessary for Bobbie
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Old 03-08-2007, 02:38 PM   #10
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The older trailers are shorter - partially because they were built that way and partially because they sag a bit with age (don't we all...).

The 1972 Boler American we used to have would roll quite nicely into our garage (6' 10" opening) with NO special actions needed.

Course - you can also look for a Compact with the top that raises up...

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Old 03-08-2007, 02:46 PM   #11
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Thanks, Mike. The height I found in a 1972 brochure was 6' 11" which is cutting it close.

I AM looking for a Compact or other pop top but in case I cannot find one the Boler would be my second option. I am not likely to find a Boler before I'm up in the NW in the summer so in the meantime I'll keep looking for a Compact.

And it occurred to me that I can always try a Boler in someone else's 7 foot garage door opening.

Bobbie
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Old 03-08-2007, 05:18 PM   #12
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Just received a Princess Auto flyer this morning and they have those dollies in it for $49.99a pair. I can see those would be perfect for some applications.
However I found using the 10"rims and the new flip-up tongue jack with the caster wheel, I was able to move the Boler around using one hand. Very, very easy now. Our driveway has a slight slope to it and I had to use blocks to stop the trailer rolling.
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Old 03-08-2007, 07:35 PM   #13
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Quote:
... I've used them on a 1967 Mustang, rolled across some pretty rough asphalt...all BY MYSELF.

With my luck, I would roll the trailer into the doorframe... but for the more coordinated, it's good to know the dollies can work.
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Old 03-08-2007, 10:54 PM   #14
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I'm still pondering a way to get my 7'6" U-Haul into my garage that has about 6'8" of clearance.
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