Boler side window removal - Jalousie - Fiberglass RV


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Old 05-26-2015, 09:22 PM   #1
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Name: Jeannette
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Boler side window removal - Jalousie

Well our next project is to pull the jalousie window and reseal it as it's leaking quite badly. I'm just nervous to start drilling out the rivets. I've been reading and it sounds like a 1/8" bit and if needed someone to stop it from spinning. Then we would try to find a similar seal - I don't know if theyre Hehr or Berdick it's a 1975 Boler 13' build in Earlton. Worst case scenario maybe we will just take the trim to a local place and see if they can match it.

My question is - which rivets do we drill out? All that we can see? On the outside frame and what about the inside. I don't want to drill out ones that just stay put in the first place. The glass is in good shape, will maybe just give it a clean. The operation is a little sluggish so I'll do some investigating on what's needed there, but just to get it out I'd like some confirmation on which rivets to drill out

Thanks!
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Old 05-27-2015, 07:56 AM   #2
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Name: JD
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If g he rivets spin then if you angle the drill a little the side will cut the head off.

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Old 05-27-2015, 09:14 AM   #3
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thank you, and are all of the visible rivets to be removed or are some of them integral to the design of the window frame itself?
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:15 AM   #4
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Name: Claire
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There are a number of clear YouTube videos on how to do this and there is also one on how to disassemble the window if necessary. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:19 AM   #5
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Yes thanks, I have watched a few - some had screws and not rivets and the others seemed to focus on what to do after it was out...I'll keep looking!
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:35 AM   #6
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Ian G is the person to ask. He has the boler called "Buttercup". He has done everything to his boler.
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Old 05-27-2015, 10:48 AM   #7
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Will do! We just reserved a spot at the annual maritime meet so the challenge is on to deal with the leaks
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:19 PM   #8
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I removed both of my Jalousie windows by drilling out the rivets, and replaced the rivets with (buytle tape ) stainless steel screws and locking nuts. Lastly I will calk around the window for added moisture protection. I framed the interior with wood which I fiberglassed in and gave the windows more than the frame of the Scamp to lock on to.
Hope this helps.
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:40 PM   #9
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Thanks!
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Old 05-27-2015, 01:56 PM   #10
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There is always this method of dealing with leaks.
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Old 05-27-2015, 02:08 PM   #11
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This may have to happen as well! I was eyeballing them at Canadian Tire just the other day. I don't want my new cushions to get wet
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Old 05-30-2015, 10:45 AM   #12
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Hi Jeanette, I just removed both of my Boler 77 side windows and it was not too bad. After I had the inside aluminum trim removed, I could see exactly where the leaks where. Bad butyl tape! I didn't caulk the outside as the butyl seemed to seal really well. It's nice and dry all around now!

You want to take all 33 rivets out. Don't remove any screws on the frame, just those attached to the trailer. Some come out easier than others. Just drill directly on the middle of the rivet head and after 30 seconds the head will spin off. If that doesn't happen, then you'll need to tap on the steel pin to loosen and drill some more. Be careful not to drill sideways or get on the fiberglass. After a few rivets you'll get the hang of it.

When all the rivets are out, you can slide a screw driver or putty knife behind the window and pop it out the frame. It's not as heavy as it looks. All the old butyl tape will just fall off. Then clean the window, etc and prepare to put back in. As the old holes were a little small, I used a drill to slightly enlarge for the rivets on the frame and the trailer. The rivets only have to be 1/4 long. Use washers on the inside to hold in place. Mine did not have wood strips, so I didn't put any in. It would rot eventually anyway. I found that laying the butyl on the frame worked great and starting at each corner with the rivets.

Once I had all rivets in the holes and very snug, then I started securing the rivets. Keep the gun perfectly straight to the hole and the pin will pop out easier. Again, it takes a few tries to get it, but with 66 rivets on the side windows, you will get the hang of it. I did it by myself, so can you! PM me if you have questions. Happy to help.

Jamie
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Old 05-30-2015, 11:54 AM   #13
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Thank you Jamie, that's what I was looking for. We are thinking about using screws and some kind of cap instead of riveting it back on once it's ready to go back in
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Old 05-30-2015, 12:09 PM   #14
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There are two camps on rivets versus screws. I'm in the rivet camp because I've seen screws shake lose and leak due to vibrations while driving. Screws are for wood, not fiberglass or metal. The rivet is so tight and secure that it won't shake off or leak. Rivets are much cheaper than screws. You are going to need a good many of them! And never use a stainless steel rivet; it is a doosey to remove. This I say from experience...

Jamie
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