Brake light bar - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 08-10-2015, 12:32 PM   #15
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Name: Wayne & Barbara
Trailer: Parkliner
Iowa
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Lights and Mirrors

Good on ya all you folks who have added LED light bars to the back of your TT.
Original factory tail/stop/turn lights have been totally inadequate.
As to your own safety: How many of you add extension rear view mirrors on your TV? Your standard car mirrors are not wide enough for you to see what's coming from behind. You'll have fewer surprises when those speed demons pass you at the merge.
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:08 PM   #16
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Name: Tap
Trailer: 2015 17' Casita SD
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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
Attachment 87591
I have a white metal bracket hooked to the back of the spare tire to hold the extra tail light bars....
Kevin, where did you get the bracket and lights?
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Old 08-10-2015, 01:23 PM   #17
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Name: Darral
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Tennessee
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Here's another option I've had on my Scamp for the past 2-3 yrs. I had some friends following us in the day time and they noticed right off I had added these. It was basically an "experiment" to run wires up to the windows. These LED "strips" came from our local AutoZone for about $35. They are VERY bright and you wouldnt want to look directly into them. They really show up better at night (as all lights). But these are a little cheaper than the standard "bar" LED lights.

The EASY way to mount these were to stick them to the window from the inside. SO, there's NO holes drilled in the body that was the whole idea. They could easily be removed and no one ever know they were there. They're also protected from the elements by the window.

The wiring I did as someone else has already mentioned. THe first photo to show up in my group is how I attached my wires to the existing brake/signal light wiring. Then I ran them to the inside and up through the ratfur and over to the window. BTW, these DO work for both signal's and braking.

Someday, I may replace them and install the bar led light strips made for this type of setup. But so far, these seem to work pretty good with no modification to the shell (holes through the body!).

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...7642175530813/
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Old 08-10-2015, 02:20 PM   #18
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Name: Kevin K
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TappyGee
Used some scrap steel. Light bars off ebay 3 years ago.
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Old 08-10-2015, 02:44 PM   #19
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Name: Darral
Trailer: Scamp Standard 13' 2010
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GREAT idea! I love ingenious ideas like that. That one is close to my heart... it works with NO additional holes in the shell!!

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Originally Posted by Kevin K View Post
TappyGee
Used some scrap steel. Light bars off ebay 3 years ago.
Attachment 87610
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Old 04-04-2016, 09:02 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Eddie Longest View Post
John
I put one on a S-19. It was a LED wide trailer, L/R turn and stop light. I hooked into the normal trailer wiring under the drivers side rear dinette. The Scamp is not wide enough (>80") for the 3 light wide load running light so I did not hook it to the running light. Half of the light blinks for right or left turn. When brakes are applied all the lights light up solid. It has internal circuits to control the light. The light was about 1.5" tall and 18" long. The only issue was mounting it. Scamp rear ends have right much of a curve so I used composite shims as spacers. I will try to find info on the light.
I did some research last year, most Scamps wrecks are a result of being rear ended and most Casita wrecks are roll overs or running off the road.
The light was mounted just under the rear window. I ran the wires in the void in the ratfur under the window then down the rear seam to under the drivers side dinette. Then tied into the wiring under the dinette.
Eddie

USA Made Tecniq Red Hi Mount Center Brake Turn ID Bar 11 LED Light Trailer Truck | eBay
Eddie,
Did you just add shims under the mounting holes to keep the light from bending, or make a 15" long curved shim?
Not sure I understand why the Scamp isn't wide enough to use the running light portion, can you educate me on that?
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Old 04-05-2016, 05:40 AM   #21
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Name: David
Trailer: 2014 13' Scamp -standard w/ front bunk
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Like Darral, I went with an inside rear window install of LED bars. I'm too intimidated by the idea of invading the exterior shell. Very bright and full function with brake and signal lights as well as tail lamps. Here is a previous post illustrating the result. They unplug when we're not in travel mode. Auxiliary tail/brake lights
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:54 AM   #22
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Name: Darral
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David, I like your setup better. The LED strips I used I bought at AutoZone for about $35 and they work ok...but I'd still like some bars like yours. They "diffuse" the LED's better although, mine are still VERY bright-especially at night.

But I like the idea you used to mount them in the window and the way you did it. I'm logging that idea . The ONLY thing different from mine would be, I ran my wires up through the ratfur and the seams. So I went into my taillights from the inside-- original factory holes- then up the wall and over to the windows. So my wires are permanent but completely concealed.

I'd originally thought about drilling through my shell and mounting some of the LED bars identical to yours outside. But since I've seen your mount, I will stay to the inside at the windows and it would be very easy and permanent. I'll probably stick to the Horizontal over the Vertical position because of the way I think that it distinguishes a little better between the left/right signals. But that's minor. Your thoughts?

Thanks for your post. And here's mine again that also shows my hookup inside my taillights.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57642175530813

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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
Like Darral, I went with an inside rear window install of LED bars. I'm too intimidated by the idea of invading the exterior shell. Very bright and full function with brake and signal lights as well as tail lamps. Here is a previous post illustrating the result. They unplug when we're not in travel mode. Auxiliary tail/brake lights
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:30 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
The ONLY thing different from mine would be, I ran my wires up through the ratfur and the seams. So I went into my taillights from the inside-- original factory holes- then up the wall and over to the windows. So my wires are permanent but completely concealed.
Thanks Darral. I hadn't thought of tapping into the tailights as you did. I spliced into the wiring as it entered the storage compartment where the shore power cable comes in. From there I ran the wiring under the rat fur up into the overhead storage compartment. The 4 way disconnect plug is in that compartment so the last bit of wiring to the lights is exposed only when they are installed in travel mode. Otherwise the lights are unplugged and stored and the live end of the plug is hidden in the over-dinette storage compartment.

Interesting question re vertical vs horizontal. In terms of safety, you may be right that the vertical may have an advantage. In terms of installation, I'm not sure if the vertical window dimension would fully accommodate the light bar length (too far from my rig to check) and I'm not sure how the bottom would be secured to keep it from excessive swaying. I went with horizontal not because I thought it all through - just seemed easier! I do know I feel safer having the additional visibility - both higher and brighter - on my rear.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:38 AM   #24
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Name: Darral
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I asked for your thoughts on V vs H and they BOTH present some interesting ideas. One thing I didnt think of- and I BELIEVE I may have checked early on- and that is the distance top to bottom of my window. I'm thinking that IF I go Vertical, I would have to move over from the edge enough to get out of the radii of the window to accommodate the length of the bars . So that could be a game changer.

One thing we both agree on and that is having higher and brighter lights!!! I think someone also mentioned in the other forum is something that I do as well, and that is run a camera (mine is a PEAK unit) in the back window that IS removable. But wowww...how it helps me see what's going on directly behind my SCamp!! Would NOT be without it now.

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Originally Posted by WDavidG View Post
........Interesting question re vertical vs horizontal. In terms of safety, you may be right that the vertical may have an advantage. In terms of installation, I'm not sure if the vertical window dimension would fully accommodate the light bar length (too far from my rig to check) and I'm not sure how the bottom would be secured to keep it from excessive swaying. I went with horizontal not because I thought it all through - just seemed easier! I do know I feel safer having the additional visibility - both higher and brighter - on my rear.
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:51 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Darral T. View Post
I think someone also mentioned in the other forum is something that I do as well, and that is run a camera (mine is a PEAK unit) in the back window that IS removable. But wowww...how it helps me see what's going on directly behind my SCamp!! Would NOT be without it now.
Darral,
I don't have a camera but comments from you and others are getting me to think seriously about adding this feature (though with brake controller, TPM unit, GPS, and a fridge temp monitor my TV console is already suffering from over-tech). Which camera do you use? Is it wireless? Do you have it running all the time or just for backing up?
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Old 04-05-2016, 10:53 AM   #26
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oops - dumb question. I see you have a Peak unit.
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Old 04-05-2016, 11:49 AM   #27
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I ran wires inside up from a tail light under the ratfur into an upper cabinet and then out thru the roof vent. Not easy but turned out well, though a bit high up on the roof.
High is good. My Little Joe has bright LED tail lights right at eye level. Given the directional nature of LEDs, when I turn or brake I poke the tailgaters in the eye. Not much help if they are texting, but I feel safer nevertheless.
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Old 04-05-2016, 01:11 PM   #28
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That's ok... but mine is wireless. Not REAL fond of it. I had to run the "wireless" transmitter up to the bathroom of my Scamp so it would give a better signal to the monitor. I wouldnt want to run wireless on a 16' or longer trailer.

I think e-trailer has some pretty good units that may be wired for about the same price. Mine was around the $120 mark. I still wouldnt pay $500+ for the higher $ units.

As always, I documented my camera installation. Here's a link to my Flickr site. On the inside, you will see my receiver neatly sitting on the curtain rod on the window next to the camera. Again, since then, I've had to undo the wire and run the transmitter to the bathroom of the Scamp. It hangs over the shower curtain rod.

Be sure to click on the video of an actual view of the camera. Again, I wont be without one.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/503516...57629562084569

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oops - dumb question. I see you have a Peak unit.
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