Brake/turn signal light problem - Fiberglass RV

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Old 05-27-2015, 03:31 PM   #1
Senior Member
Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 19
Posts: 170
Brake/turn signal light problem

I hope someone can help me. The brake light/ turn signal light on the left side of my trailer doesn't work. I have checked the bulb and replaced it and it still wouldn't work. I then switched the bulb with the other side and the new bulb is good. Next I thought it might be a bad ground so I tapped into the ground going to the tail light below, but in the same fixture. Still no brake lights or turn signal.

I have also called Scamp and talked with the service department. Did get any answer that has worked.

All the other lights, tail-both sides turn/brake on the other side, and running lights on the side of the trailer are working great. I just can figure out what is wrong with the one brake/turn signal on the driver side.

Anyone got any suggestions of what to try next.

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Old 05-27-2015, 04:24 PM   #2
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Name: Sergey
Trailer: 2014 Scamp 16 layout 4
SW Florida
Posts: 403
The problem could be in 7-pin connector or wiring, either on trailer or TV side. If you're are not comfortable with electric/wiring troubleshooting and repair, contact any trailer or car repair shop, both will be able to help.

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Old 05-27-2015, 04:57 PM   #3
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Name: Dave
Trailer: Casita SD17 2006
Posts: 2,079
If you've made sure the ground, bulb and bulb socket is good, the only other thing is 12 volts. Sounds to me you need to start tracing wires for good connections.
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Old 05-27-2015, 08:40 PM   #4
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Name: Floyd
Trailer: 2004 13 ft Scamp Custom Deluxe
Posts: 5,032
check for power at the fixture,,, If none look behind the ratfur under the steps which lead to the loft.. some of the connections are made for the lighting under there. You may just have a wire nut which came loose.
If not... look at the connectors under the bench and under the carpet next to the taillight(left side).

Does the side marker on the left rear work?
If nothing on the fixture works then it is likely the ground connection.
left side under the bench.
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Old 05-28-2015, 06:59 AM   #5
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Name: Steve
Trailer: Scamp 19
Posts: 170
Floyd- the tail light in the same fixture works, as all the other lighting outside as well as all interior lighting. Since the tail light on that side works I just used a jumper wire between the ground on the tail light and the brake/ turn signal light. On my trailer I notice that the electrical comes into the trailer under that first little step, and that one in mounted won't open.
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Old 05-28-2015, 07:20 AM   #6
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
Posts: 7,914
Some thoughts:
1. Get a trailer plug checker, usually available at RV and auto supply stores. You plug it into your TV's outlet and test the lighting circuits (LED's light up) to be sure they are working at the TV.

2. Depending on your TV and how it is wired, some vehicles (many GM's any way) have separate fuses for the trailer lighting feed. Look in the fuse boxes (there may be two) for fuses marked for trailer lights.

3. Plug connections have been known to fail. Recently, on a GM with factory wiring, I had a positive indication on the plug checker, but the trailers turn lights did not work until I sprayed out the TV's connector with contact cleaner and worked the new plug in and out several times.

4. Jumper a known good 12VDC source to the pin on the trailers plug to test that circuit. If you have a charging line, 12 volts from the coach battery is on one pin already.

Good Luck
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Old 05-28-2015, 08:23 AM   #7
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Name: roger
Trailer: Scamp 1977
Posts: 1
It is always the ground.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #8
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Name: Bob
Trailer: 1973 Hunter Compact II
Posts: 7,914
"Always" rules out a lot of other possibilities, especially because the tail light filament in the same fixture is apparently working, pretty much ruling out a bad ground and the o.p. mentioned that he jumped from a known good ground to the fixture with out luck.

As was the case in the one I worked on three days ago, it was both a blown trailer light fuse in the TV as well as a very dirty receptacle.
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Old 05-28-2015, 09:09 AM   #9
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Name: Greg
Trailer: 2008 Casita 17' SD
Posts: 798
My money would be on a broken wire or connection feeding the brake/turn light on that circuit.
"Government doesn't have an answer to the problem, government is the problem." Ronald Reagan
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Old 05-28-2015, 10:02 AM   #10
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Name: Carol
Trailer: 22' Airstream Formerly 16' Scamp
British Columbia
Posts: 11,706
Originally Posted by Casita Greg View Post
My money would be on a broken wire or connection feeding the brake/turn light on that circuit.
LOL so does mine! especially if you have ever removed the back benches in a Scamp and seen the wiring and connections behind the rat fur leading into the passenger side rear taillight area & then over to the drivers side rear tail lights.

I had problems with my rear lights due to loose connections. Replaced the twist on wire caps Scamp had used with shrink wrap connections and the problem has never returned.

If the OP has checked that there is no corrosion issues with the 7 pin plugs on the tug and trailer side then my next step would be to put a meter on the wires and see if there is actually power on the line. If there is power you know its the light, If no power pull out the right/passenger side rear bench and check for power on the wire leading from the passenger side to the drivers side light - may simple be a loose connection. Pulling out the rear benches is WAY easier/faster than trying to trouble shoot the issue with your head down in the rear hatch.
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Old 05-28-2015, 02:35 PM   #11
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Name: Wendy Lee
Trailer: Scamp 13' Standard
New York
Posts: 989
Prob not it but happened to me

I put too much dialectric grease in my bulb sockets and 7 pin thinking it was a good idea until I learned the stuff is an insulator. After cleaning some of the crap out of there I had no more problems. Hey ya never know. Some problems can be simple.
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Old 05-28-2015, 03:35 PM   #12
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Name: Adam
Trailer: SurfSide TM 14
Posts: 12
Check converter on vehicle

I had an issue similar to this and it turned out to be the converter on the car. Like stated before, a plug tester will let you know.
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Old 05-28-2015, 03:39 PM   #13
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Name: Joe
Trailer: 1999 Casita 17' SD
Posts: 312
Here's how I would attack your problem and this requires only a charged battery in the trailer and a short piece of wire for a jumper.

Looking into the end of the trailer end of 7 pin connector with the square "key" piece of the molded part upward insert a jumper wire into the 9 o'clock position, that's the right turn and stop light and the 11 o'clock position that is the PLUS 12 voltage. (these contacts are adjacent)

The light should be on, if so the problem is not in your trailer.

If it does not light it's in the trailer. If it were a Casita I would start by looking in the rat's nest in the front closet.

For reference to wire colors and pin connections go here and print this page out in color, it's very handy and IS the correct RV STANDARD 7 pin connector and colors for most every RV trailer made in the past 15-20 years or so. (There's been much confusion and misinformation published by Casita, Scamp and even E-Trailer has got it wrong in one place on their sight) LONG ago they used a different color standard. (there are three)

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Old 05-28-2015, 05:07 PM   #14
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Name: Kevin
Trailer: 28' Bigfoot Silver Cloud
Oak Park, IL
Posts: 1,016
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Everyone has great suggestions here. On our UHaul, any turn signals not working has always traced back to the 4-pin connector. After cleaning the contacts, which seem to get dirty very easily, the turn lights will work again. Just my two cents worth.

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