Bring the bunks back - Page 2 - Fiberglass RV


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Old 03-16-2009, 09:14 AM   #15
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[quote]Here is a picture of our previous dog Molly a 95 Lb. Rotty x Ridgeback (??) in our trailer. You can see the shower curtain rod holder on the bottom. The pole with the loop and screw. Lower bunk with dog and upper bunk with a little more than light storage. 2 suitcases plus whatever else filled up the space.


Attachment 18510


Thanks everbody!!! I'm going to call Scamp for the parts. They did a terrific job replacing my cushions.(the back banana was just a tad small for a Boler, but still works)
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:59 AM   #16
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This is my first addition to this web site but have been visiting for the past couple of weeks every day. There is a lot of useful info. I have the same problem with my 72 boler (which I acquired just last year). The previous owners did a pretty good job updating the interior but I need to set up the bunk beds because the fitting are missing. I was thinking of using some shower curtain rod holders (2 in the bottom and 2 under the bunk) with a rod (or dowel) placed between them. And have gravity hold it together. Will this work or will the cushions get in the way?
to the site Chris, and your system will work the bottom (seat) cushions will deform slightly when the bunk beds are deployed (as seen in the appended pix above)....
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Old 03-16-2009, 01:01 PM   #17
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What I did on my front bunks was to put some PVC piping over the ends of the support poles and made some bed rails for the upper bunk, plus drilled out some PVC T fittings, slid them on the lower part of the pole and made a bed rail for the lower bunk. I needed the bunks as storage space and the rails kept my stuf from sliding off on ruff roads. The first part is hard to do if the poles end under the bunk instead of going past it.

Thought I had some pics, but don't.
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Old 03-16-2009, 03:58 PM   #18
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Ah, yes, good point in favor of the loops and not sockets (with the loops the poles extend a bit upwards of the upper bunk) if you want to be able to make any sort of guard rail on the upper bunk (I knew there must be something )

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Old 03-16-2009, 04:14 PM   #19
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Good thread. By any chance, would anyone have figured out a way to secure poles that only prop the bunk from underneath (Trillium-style)?
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Old 03-16-2009, 07:21 PM   #20
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Good thread. By any chance, would anyone have figured out a way to secure poles that only prop the bunk from underneath (Trillium-style)?
You mean by using a flange?
Shower curtain flange
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Old 03-16-2009, 08:55 PM   #21
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You mean by using a flange?
Shower curtain flange
That looks promising, but it still wouldn't really lock them in.

I did find this which is based on the same idea but has a certain retaining ability. Maybe it could be retrofitted into the end of each pole.
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:07 PM   #22
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Drill holes through the flange and post -- If straight, use cotter pin, it not straight use wire.
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:10 PM   #23
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Sounds like you need something with a sleeve that goes over the pole, then a cotter pin or something to keep the two pieces together? But if the sleeve was too long, it would interfere with the back laying properly against the front of the trailer when in the down position.

hummmmm thinking
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Old 03-16-2009, 09:11 PM   #24
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Muggins Pete! We're thinking along the same lines
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Old 03-17-2009, 11:58 PM   #25
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Hi , on my boler i'm missing the top bunk portion . I do have the protrustion below the window for the bunk but do not know how this is fastened . is this part hinged to flip up ? I'm guessing it is . It would seem to me that there must be a 2 x 3 on the hinged side to allow for the upper bunk to be high enough for someone to use the bottom one . Hopefully i have described this properly . Can anyone help me figure this out ? Pictures are a big plus . Thank you . Perry
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Old 03-18-2009, 12:50 AM   #26
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Hi Perry,

I'll describe how the upper bunk attaches on my 1974 Boler. You can see what I'm talking about in the upper photo in post #13 of this thread (that's my Boler).

There is no extra board or 2x3. The way it works is that there are two hinges that mount to the top of that lip (the protrusion) and then also to the back of the seat back, up near the top of the seat back. They are a normal "hinge" shape, like the hinges on the interior door of a house.

Because of the way the hinges do their thing, the seat back ends up higher than the lip when you make it into a bunk (you can see this in the photo on post #13 also). Voila!

If you look on the top of the lip (protrusion), perhaps you will see where the hinges were mounted to it. On mine there are three holes at each end of the lip (right and left, out pretty close to the ends of the lip).

On the seat back the holes are harder to see, because they just go into the upholstery without much of a fuss.

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Old 03-18-2009, 05:50 PM   #27
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They are a normal "hinge" shape, like the hinges on the interior door of a house.
It looks like you have the same hinges in your pictures as I do in mine. They are not a "normal" hinge but an [b]offset hinge. That is what allows the bunk to move up and towards the window as it is put into postion.


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Old 03-18-2009, 05:54 PM   #28
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Thanks for clarifying what I said Roy. I had one thing in mind, but expressed it un-clearly (bad me!). I meant to say that they were rectangular, two-part hinges with three fasteners on each side; that's what I meant by normal shaped (vs. strap hinges or piano hinges or whatever). But I mistakenly implied that they worked like normal hinges, which they don't!

Thanks for catching that and adding the illustration to the thread.

Raya
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