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07-16-2018, 07:05 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Trailer: Trillium 2010
Posts: 5,185
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I was told the upswing tongue on the original Trilliums was formed by bending the frame members. In bending, the steel was "stretched" making it thin in places and prone to breaking.
To form each side of the tongue on the TrilliumRV version (which later became the Sidekick) three separate pieces, cut at angles, were welded together. On my 2010 the three joints that form the side of the tongue were each strengthened with two gusset plates, one on the inside and one on the bottom. These additional reenforcements seem to have been abandoned when manufacturing was transferred to Great West.
TrilliumRV used 11 gauge steel (about 1/8" thick) for the frame. Before you have your frame repaired you might want to measure yours. This will let you better decide if replacement or repair is the best option. While I've seen repairs like this done with the body on, I would at the very least raise the body to allow for a more robust job. A trailer frame shop can best advise you. Good luck.
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07-16-2018, 04:05 PM
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#22
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Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 41
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Gusset plate
This was done mine before I bought it. It’s called a gusset. The frame is welded and plates are welded on both sides of the frame.
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07-16-2018, 04:21 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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A nice long gusset, too.
A problem I see is that there is no connection on many of these trailers from side to side at the bend.
This gives a twisting motion to the stress that could be carried over to the other side with a straight cross member.
I added the cross member to my Scamp rebuild to help in this area.
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07-16-2018, 04:48 PM
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#24
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Member
Name: Dave
Trailer: Trillium
Alberta
Posts: 41
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Cross member
That looks like a good idea. Cross pieces for the propane and batteries and that should be one solid frame! What’s in the tube?
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07-16-2018, 08:48 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Name: JD
Trailer: Scamp 16 Modified (BIGLY)
Florida
Posts: 2,445
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The tube originally held the drain slinky.
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07-19-2018, 07:54 PM
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#26
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Junior Member
Name: Eric
Trailer: Trillium Sidekick (1300) from Great West
Quebec
Posts: 9
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I just got the trailer back from the garage today. I will post some pictures of the repair in the coming days. We were very lucky that the other side did not break. Can't wait to go camping again!
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02-28-2023, 03:32 PM
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#27
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Junior Member
Name: Jeff
Trailer: Rockwood
New York
Posts: 1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by endtilly
I just got the trailer back from the garage today. I will post some pictures of the repair in the coming days. We were very lucky that the other side did not break. Can't wait to go camping again!
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I know it has been a while- but can you update us? maybe with a couple pictures?
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06-25-2023, 07:02 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Name: Helene
Trailer: Sidekick (Trillium
British Columbia
Posts: 8
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Broken Frame trillium 1300 by Great West Vans
Wondering if anyone has pics or firsthand experience of body bolt location. I have catastrophic frame breakage at stress bend and upon lifting the frame and trailer up to remove the body can only find one bolt. Nothing up front in either storage area. Tabs welded to the frame with bolt holes have nothing going through them and the trailer body has no holes in it. Shaking my head at this point.
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06-26-2023, 08:27 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Helene
Wondering if anyone has pics or firsthand experience of body bolt location. I have catastrophic frame breakage at stress bend and upon lifting the frame and trailer up to remove the body can only find one bolt. Nothing up front in either storage area. Tabs welded to the frame with bolt holes have nothing going through them and the trailer body has no holes in it. Shaking my head at this point.
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Helene, Potentially catastrophic, not catastrophic. In fact, I would count your lucky stars that it was not much worse. Take it to a trailer shop and have the fish plates welded on. If the mounting locations are there, also have them drill the holes and put in the bolts, with very large washers. I would recommend stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers.
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06-28-2023, 04:53 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Name: Helene
Trailer: Sidekick (Trillium
British Columbia
Posts: 8
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Trillium 1300 frame failure
Yep, tried that but no one in town is willing to fishplate weld it. It actually almost completely severed and is now hanging on by about 1\2” of frame plate on each side after the flat deck ride home.
I have it jacked up all the way around and have only found one bolt through body and frame after looking from all the top compartments visible without removing appliances and from underneath. I’d rather remove body myself
At this point and have frame custom rebuilt. So far 3 out of 3 shops have done more damage to my fibreglass.
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06-29-2023, 08:33 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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Pulling the coach off the frame is a good idea. Trillium / Outback is in Calgary. At least they have experience with these trailers and Reece Thoen is a skilled welder, in my opinion. Howerver they make their frame with no bends, just welds. Probably a bit far for you though.
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08-07-2023, 10:42 AM
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#32
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Junior Member
Name: Helene
Trailer: Sidekick (Trillium
British Columbia
Posts: 8
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Success
Well, I persevered and successfully removed our “lemon” from the trailer frame. Out of 6 possible bolts, our trailer left the factory and has been all over western Canada and the US since 2014, with only two rear bolts holding it to the frame.
Repeat, two rear bolts! Talk about luck. They drilled a myriad of holes through the trailer front and rear and only two lined up with frame holes and welded tabs so they left it at that. Shame on me for not looking but it was bought new.
Thinking of adding a flexride axle or Timbren axle-less because it has bounced mercilessly from the beginning. Anyone have history on how they ride and last over time?
I’m also interested in adding a bit of length to the rear bumper and the front. Enough for a small gear/tool box for hose, level blocks and misc bits nothing real heavy and a second 12 v battery up front. Currently I have a 30lb propane tank and one battery up front. I’d like the extra length to allow for clearance of my sea kayaks. Which extend about 30 past the tailgate of my Chevy 1500.
Any thoughts on this?
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08-08-2023, 10:56 PM
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#33
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Senior Member
Name: Dave W
Trailer: Trillium 4500 - 1976, 1978, 1979, 1300 - 1977, and a 1973
Alberta
Posts: 6,926
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That only two bolts were holding it on is, sadly, kind of common for Trillium trailers.
It sounds like your leaning towards a custom frame. The tool box on the back might be better as a hitch receiver. Remember to connect it to both the bumper and the next cross member on the frame. That way you can use an aluminum cargo platform, when you want the extra storage. Or, you can remove it when you don't need it.
Extra length on the tongue is also not a bad idea. Short trailers are more difficult to back up. It would be important to maintain 10%, or more, of your trailer weight on the tongue.
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