Bumper mount spare tire carrier - Fiberglass RV


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Old 07-11-2014, 09:36 PM   #1
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Bumper mount spare tire carrier

Has anyone ever changed over their Scamp spare tire carrier to one of these bumper mounts?
MaxxTow Spare Tire Carrier for 3" x 5" Trailer Frames - 4-Lug and 5-Lug Wheels
Any thoughts? Pros, cons?
Thanks,
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Old 07-11-2014, 10:58 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Wallo View Post
Has anyone ever changed over their Scamp spare tire carrier to one of these bumper mounts?
MaxxTow Spare Tire Carrier for 3" x 5" Trailer Frames - 4-Lug and 5-Lug Wheels
Any thoughts? Pros, cons?
Thanks,
If you want to go bumper mount on a Scamp, you will need to weld in another crossmember to the frame, then attach the new crossmember to the bumper before attaching the bumper carrier.
The stock Scamp bumper is far too flexible to support the carrier by itself.

You might consider attaching a 2" receiver in a similar way then build the carrier to fit it.
It would seem a bit of trouble for no good reason since the Stock spare mount has proven reliable for several decades.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:00 PM   #3
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Scamp rear bumpers.. from the factory, are about as stout as Tin Foil. If you want something away from the body, plan to build something on the frame... not the bumper.
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Old 07-11-2014, 11:49 PM   #4
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Looks like that idea is shot to heck. Wanted to get a longer stinky slinky hose, by putting a 5" square PVC pipe behind the tire and adding accessory boxes made of shorter PVC on each side of the tire on top of the long PVC. Phooey. I have a 2" receiver on the back, but I don't want to disturb the weight distribution by putting a 50# carrier back there plus a 15# molded plastic container with tools and setup items. The PVC won't fit on the front of the bumper because the tire comes over and the receiver comes up a bit.
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Old 07-12-2014, 08:01 PM   #5
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Looks like that idea is shot to heck. Wanted to get a longer stinky slinky hose, by putting a 5" square PVC pipe behind the tire and adding accessory boxes made of shorter PVC on each side of the tire on top of the long PVC. Phooey. I have a 2" receiver on the back, but I don't want to disturb the weight distribution by putting a 50# carrier back there plus a 15# molded plastic container with tools and setup items. The PVC won't fit on the front of the bumper because the tire comes over and the receiver comes up a bit.
I built this one onto the rear bumper of my Scamp13. It is built from square steel tubing of the same gauge as regular RV bumpers (note the end plugs)
The new bumper holds the stinky slinky and it is securely welded to the stock steel angle iron bumper on the Scamp which is of a heavier gauge than the frame.
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scamp pictures 015.jpg   sm4.JPG  

DSCF0015.JPG   scamp pictures 005.jpg  

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Old 07-13-2014, 12:00 PM   #6
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That looks very good. How much extra weight did that add to the back? Do you have any scraping going out of drive ways? Out here we have dips at the end of our driveways to carry water away during flash flooding. I have to be very careful when exiting/entering and come at an angle to avoid scraping. Another thought I had was to add the PVC above the belly band in the back covering the screws on the inside with acorn nuts.
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Old 07-13-2014, 06:10 PM   #7
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That looks very good. How much extra weight did that add to the back? Do you have any scraping going out of drive ways? Out here we have dips at the end of our driveways to carry water away during flash flooding. I have to be very careful when exiting/entering and come at an angle to avoid scraping. Another thought I had was to add the PVC above the belly band in the back covering the screws on the inside with acorn nuts.
The complete bumper including the unistrut and steel bumper guards and plugs weighed in at eleven pounds. It is welded flush with the top of the Scamp bumper which is 3" high. The Tubing is 4" square.
The angle of departure places the bumper out of normal harms way.
The bumper does not extend down as far as the stock stabilizers.
I have installed BAL stabilizers forward of the bumper on the frame(see photo below) Again, due to the angle of departure they are safe compared to the gray water tank outlet. We have towed with these mods for over 9 years without scratching either.
I did finally have to replace the stock graywater tank last year due to the vulnerable location of the graywater outlet.
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Old 07-17-2014, 08:56 PM   #8
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Floyd...it's a very good thing you are handy with welding. I went around today, with pictures of what you did, and pictures of what mine looks like now. Three estimates came in from $700-850 dollars. That's about 8% of what I paid for the Scamp. All places were going to cut off current bumper, add extensions to the frame, put the bumper back on with a flat piece welded on top. Then, put the receiver back on with extra strengthening welds and support. Maybe I shouldn't have retired.
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Old 07-17-2014, 10:33 PM   #9
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Floyd...it's a very good thing you are handy with welding. I went around today, with pictures of what you did, and pictures of what mine looks like now. Three estimates came in from $700-850 dollars. That's about 8% of what I paid for the Scamp. All places were going to cut off current bumper, add extensions to the frame, put the bumper back on with a flat piece welded on top. Then, put the receiver back on with extra strengthening welds and support. Maybe I shouldn't have retired.
I am sorry to hear that, The rubber end plugs actually cost me more than the bumper.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:35 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Wallo View Post
Looks like that idea is shot to heck. Wanted to get a longer stinky slinky hose, by putting a 5" square PVC pipe behind the tire and adding accessory boxes made of shorter PVC on each side of the tire on top of the long PVC. Phooey. I have a 2" receiver on the back, but I don't want to disturb the weight distribution by putting a 50# carrier back there plus a 15# molded plastic container with tools and setup items. The PVC won't fit on the front of the bumper because the tire comes over and the receiver comes up a bit.

Alice can you not put PVC under the trailer? I know my trailer is a bit longer but there was lots of room on mine to mount the 5" PVC between the grey water tank & the receiver mounted at the rear of the trailer. I used heavy duty zip ties to attach it to the trailer using a frame cross bar - tight fit but was able to slip the zip ties between the frame and the floor. It does not sit much lower than the grey water tank. I put hinged caps on both ends with a clasp and it holds a Rhino hose and all the fits. Made it so it opened from the side so the hose wasn't dragging over the nuts and bolts I used to mount the hinges and clasp. Got the hardware from a marine supply store. Been on for thousands of miles and no signs of loosing it.
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Old 07-17-2014, 11:59 PM   #11
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Alice can you not put PVC under the trailer? I know my trailer is a bit longer but there was lots of room on mine to mount the 5" PVC between the grey water tank & the receiver mounted at the rear of the trailer. I used heavy duty zip ties to attach it to the trailer using a frame cross bar - tight fit but was able to slip the zip ties between the frame and the floor. It does not sit much lower than the grey water tank. I put hinged caps on both ends with a clasp and it holds a Rhino hose and all the fits. Made it so it opened from the side so the hose wasn't dragging over the nuts and bolts I used to mount the hinges and clasp. Got the hardware from a marine supply store. Been on for thousands of miles and no signs of loosing it.
That works great for a Scamp16, but the lower stature would bring the tubing outside of the safe zone of the angle of departure on a Scamp13.
Perhaps mounting the tube(metal or plastic) to the rear bumper using Signode banding might work. Or maybe mount one under the battery box on top of the tongue.
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Old 07-18-2014, 10:12 AM   #12
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Thanks Floyd I didn't realize the 13' was that much lower. Putting it up front under the battery is a good idea. My trailer came with a rather large 8' round PVC pipe mounted there and never had a clearance issue with it in that location.
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Old 07-18-2014, 11:48 AM   #13
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That's some nice work Carol & floyd, thanks for the pics. I have thought about adding a 4" square rear bumper to my Scamp and your plan of just leaving the stock bumper in place does make a lot of sense. I had thought about also lowering my stabilizers a little so they actually reach the ground without the need for additional pads and then adding some "wheelie" wheels to protect things just in case it bottoms out back there.
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Old 07-18-2014, 12:02 PM   #14
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I had thought about also lowering my stabilizers a little so they actually reach the ground without the need for additional pads.
Pretty sure you can buy new ones that are longer than the ones that Scamp puts on the trailers.... or I seem to think that was the case when I had to do a fast replace I broke while on a road trip. Was a bit sorry after that I didn't go with a pair of the long ones but the parts place I went to was charging for just one stabilizer what most places would charge for a pair.
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