bunk rail

[greendragon]

what have pople made or done fo a upper bunk rail. Looking for ideas, Thanks Rick. Have 77, 13 foot Trillum

[Donna D.]

Hi Rick, here's some links for you:

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ail-25311.html

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ing-25364.html

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...per-37114.html

http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f...ons-40819.html

That should get you started.

[Byron Kinnaman]

A little PVC pipe and a couple fittings and walla.. Easy and cheap to make.

I believe it was 1 1/2 or 2" PVC pipe, 2 "T"s and 2 end caps. Look at the pictures below. The short pieces from the "T"s fit over the support posts.

The third picture is in use.
All that's needed is something to stop the rolling off. She could still get into and out of the bunk. You would need to make sure the child's head could NOT fit between the bunk pad and the rail.

[Eddy Ann]

I used a tension bar, from ceiling to floor, just for the night, and then stored it under the unit during the day. Good luck...! Don't fall...!

[LisaVPC]

How is this connected to the bunk?

[Thinh]

Originally Posted by LisaVPC

How is this connected to the bunk?

The following photos include my 1980-1300Trillium upper bunk's rail. I think it was original from manufacturer. It is made of from copper pipes, 1/2-inch. Total there are 3 portions, upper horizon and 2 vertical. They are connected together by push-in. Mine are painted with bottom fiberglass reinforced rail added, heavy duty hinges and inside the mattress, there are 2 other aluminum, L-shape rails-Floor, water-resistance laminate just put in and stainless-steel propane line is on process of completion. Share with you guys...

[David Tilston]

Originally Posted by Thinh

The following photos include my 1980-1300Trillium upper bunk's rail. I think it was original from manufacturer.

Randy, That is a great design, but not factory. In fact, in your first picture I can see the wood block that the factory design would mount to. The factory design is a spring loaded shower curtain that squeezes into shower curtain rod ends that would be screwed to that wood block and the hinge side door frame reinforcement.

That tubing is good to thousands of psi, but I understand, from a previous post that compression fittings are not approved for low pressure propane lines. Apparently flair fittings are required, but I think I would trust your system more. Why did you not drill through your new cross member? Also are those Swagelok fittings?

[LisaVPC]

Yeah....our 1978 has nothing like that. Bunk is held up with two wooden poles. I have to get this figured out. 6 year old son fell off top bunk...he's not going back up until we have rails

[Thinh]

Originally Posted by David Tilston

Randy, That is a great design, but not factory. In fact, in your first picture I can see the wood block that the factory design would mount to. The factory design is a spring loaded shower curtain that squeezes into shower curtain rod ends that would be screwed to that wood block and the hinge side door frame reinforcement.

That tubing is good to thousands of psi, but I understand, from a previous post that compression fittings are not approved for low pressure propane lines. Apparently flair fittings are required, but I think I would trust your system more. Why did you not drill through your new cross member? Also are those Swagelok fittings?

David, in my first photo of bunk bed rail, the back wall black painted rail was actually wooden origin, the first bottom black rail is U-shape fiberglass I added on. What I did to the bunk-bed is reinforcement. The rails are copper and origins, I just paint them black. I actually took the bed apart due to sagging at middle and when separating the cover, foam, I BOLT(not screw) 2 L-shape aluminum rails along the length of plywood. Then put back cover, foam and add another fiberglass U-shape rail, paint it black you see in the photo. Change the long, skinny hinge by 2 heavy duty door hinges and one of garage door hinge, paint them all black. In the photo of propane lines, the tube actually goes through original cross members. The rail you see tube not going thru is an added rail for reinforcement. Due to the smaller size and tough material to be drilled-Queen size bed's steel rail-so if drilling a hole, those 3 holes wouldn't be in straight line. The previous owner must have slow leak or his propane system. After installing tubes, I went on tests using soap water. First trial, blowing air at 50psi, then 80psi and final 100psi. First, every connection seems to be OK, second at 80psi, all passed but one( the old fitting).The reason is a scratched O ring(visible by manifying glass). After replace it, I crank the air compressor to 100psi, blowing air with spraying soap around all connectors-Finally all passed). The reason I used union connectors in photos because I have no flare tool at home but I do have stainless steel pipes with flared fittings which are already made with different lengths. So, to let the tube going thru cross members, I have to cut them a half and using union connectors afterward. A propane line, which was made by thin copper of 33 years old trailer have bad shapes, rusty, bent, distorted before I start working on it. Share with you some photos...Cheer! BTW, I am eager to see your final work of belly band. Would you make another ...moulding like...car moulding in there? I wish I could do that!

[wolfandfinch]

Originally Posted by Byron Kinnaman

A little PVC pipe and a couple fittings and walla.. Easy and cheap to make.

I believe it was 1 1/2 or 2" PVC pipe, 2 "T"s and 2 end caps. Look at the pictures below. The short pieces from the "T"s fit over the support posts.

The third picture is in use.
All that's needed is something to stop the rolling off. She could still get into and out of the bunk. You would need to make sure the child's head could NOT fit between the bunk pad and the rail.

Thank you for this wonderful idea - we made this following these instructions and it's perfect!!